Jump to content
SAU Community

Wtb [Qld]: 1997 R33 Gts-T Standard


Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I am in a position to purchase a stock standard (Exhaust and Wheels ok) Skyline. Here are my must have's:

  • Must be stock, with the exception of exhaust and mag wheels although I would prefer standard exhaust.
  • Must have less than 100k on the odometer and be able to prove it.
  • Must be manual.
  • Everything else must be stock standard and must have RWC. Whilst I would prefer one with rego I can fix that up.

I don't care too much what colour it is although I am not fond of the grey ones. I would prefer a car with no extra gauges in the cockpit, the standard ones should be fine. An after market cluster is fine but you must be able to prove the K's on it and before it was fitted.

I a have the cash ready to go but am happy to wait for the right car. I will want to test drive first and do all the normal checks (REV's and Car History).

Please PM me with details and photo's. Please include photo's of the interior and engine bay.

I am happy for a discussion in this thread on any prospects.

Cheers,

Richard.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Haha glad you can play along.

Anyways 100,000km on a R33 is very very unlikely

Even if you do find one the chances of someone being able to prove to you its correct are slim.

Just do the usual checks and take it to a place to do a compression check.

All the cyl show around 155-160 then its fine.

Or you could buy a 34 for a good price.

Why do you want a 1997?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Haha glad you can play along.

Anyways 100,000km on a R33 is very very unlikely

Even if you do find one the chances of someone being able to prove to you its correct are slim.

Just do the usual checks and take it to a place to do a compression check.

All the cyl show around 155-160 then its fine.

Or you could buy a 34 for a good price.

Why do you want a 1997?

I am after a 33 or a 34, just figured a 34 would be out of my price range of around 8 - 12k, preferably closer to the 8k. Also in the GTS-T and GT-T models I prefer the body shape than the 34's. Having said that I would give up my clubby for a r34 GTR. :woot:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Logbooks with < 100 000kms is going to slim to none!

Compression test is much more important than kms on a car i think.

I bought a stock 97 grey skyline only 2 months ago and i payed a premium! (No way its going to cost 8K)

EDIT - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/404239-1996-r33-gts-t-s2-for-sale-sydney/

As close as you will get!

Edited by CLNSKY
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Logbooks with < 100 000kms is going to slim to none!

Compression test is much more important than kms on a car i think.

I bought a stock 97 grey skyline only 2 months ago and i payed a premium! (No way its going to cost 8K)

There is more to a car than just the motor. Drive train gets affected by the number of k's a car does as well. Gear box wear, diff, bearings etc.

I have seen 97 models for sale at the 8k mark with about 100k on them, some a fraction over (which would be ok) and some a fraction under. I can go higher as well. Like everyone I want the world and don't want to pay anything for it. Not saying I won't. :rolleyes:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

EDIT - http://www.skylinesa...or-sale-sydney/

As close as you will get!

Yup, have seen that.

Again with the silver/grey.. Yuk. (Sorry pat). Just not my thing.

My preferential colour is Burgundy.

I have seen a few on carsales with under 100k on the OD at about 9.5 to 10k. I would assume I can get a little off that as well. Like I said in my OP, I am happy to wait for the right car.

Also I like the interior on the 97 r33 as well, the seats look neater than the velvet/velour in the older ones. Just sayin.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Little more work!  Did some body work on the rear wheel arches and since the paint was a cheap spray job before figured I’d do something to tide me over until I wrap the car.    Colour might not be everyone’s choice but I like it and it’s only temporary, just hate having primer from the wheel arches standing out.    Keeping an eye out for a decent set of wheels to throw on now. Wheels and tires on the car are junk
    • Its likely to be 70% road 30% track usage, track usage will increase if anything. Decided not to fit it as I cant be arsed changing the bushes on my LCAs again 🤣 I did get the below back from GKTech though so they should work together     The anti-squat kit and roll center adjusters work independently since they change the rear lower control arm's angle in different ways. The anti-squat kit adjusts the angle from front to back, which impacts anti-squat values. Roll center adjusters change the angle side to side, mainly to correct geometry on cars that are significantly lowered. They might affect each other a tiny bit, but overall, you can think of them as separate.
    • What are you doing with the car? street car or race car? People get hung up on the squat of the s/r chassis rears. There is positives to the squat if a car is setup and driven correctly for it (correct ride height, spring rate, alignment, damper valving). Generally just lengthen the rear traction arm by 5-10mm and that will help the squat and bump steer too. You are also correct with the roll centre too. This too also needs to be adjustable if you start messing with suspension geometry.   Having done quiet a bit of testing on race cars this year in regards to rear squat, I've seen some big positives from it in regards to drive off corners and traction. 
    • I find I am using the MX5 for everything except long overnight cruises with Jackie, or, if picking up the kids to go somewhere, the SS has so much more room inside, and is much more comfortable if your going to be doing Hwy driving for 6-8 hours And the MX5 isn't bad in stop go traffic for a manual transmission car, whilst the clutch kit has been upgraded from stock, it is still light, and also not having a stupidly light flywheel in it helps as well, I've spent alot of time sitting on the M5, M4 and M7 stuck in traffic when plodding around the Greater Sydney Region in it Another benefit is MX5's are not really a car that gets stolen, you can pretty much park it anywhere, and it will still be there when you return
    • I can totally get why you like it for that sort of commute. I was thinking BoganDore because it's such a lazy drive, for things like stop start traffic.   I used to do over an hour in stop start shit from one side of Bris to the next, twice a day. My choice of car was larger displacement, with an auto. Basically for torque in low rpm/very low speed, and no clutch pedal. But loved a fun manual for the weekends, which the partner has (plus had the LandCruiser too for other fun drives). I now have an EV as a work car, and I tell ya what, ultimate daily driver, especially if youre out of energy, like I often am after work. I don't even need to touch the brake pedal   That said, I'm presently rebuilding the Liberty GTB to get it setup for weekend drives and track abuse! So small high revving turbo engine with 6 speed cog swapper!   But for your style of commute, I'd probably take the MX5 too!   For those choices, I'm ignoring fuel economy. Because I know how atrocious V8 daily life is for fuel from when I used to daily a manual SS, ha ha. Hence why I know I love the daily rumble of a V8
×
×
  • Create New...