Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 8 months later...

Hey all,

Just wanted to ask a quick one about fuel filters. What are you guys using these days? I've read a number of older posts about using the standard Ryco filters, some good some bad. I'm also aware of the situation with needing to replace fuel filters regularly just after switching to E85 until the system is clean. So right now I'm considering three paths.

1. I stick with the Ryco paper filter and just replace it regularly.

2. I stick with the Ryco paper filter for now, then after my first tank of E85, switch to a billet filter (Aeroflow, Speedflow, Proflow, or similar?)

3. I switch to a billet filter now, before getting the E85 tune.

At the moment I'm leaning towards option 3 for a couple of reasons. Firstly I have the standard feed line to my Ryco filter, then a -6 fuel line to my HKS rail. It works, but considering the Ryco filter has 5/16 push on barbs, it doesn't quite fit as nicely as I would like. With the billet filter I could use a -6 AN fitting on one side, and a -6 AN to 5/16 tail barb on the other side. Second, if I need to replace filters regularly, would a washable element not be a cost effective solution?

  • Like 1

I use twin -6 an stainless mesh filters, Proflow ones, they cost around $100 each though plus fittings. No issues in 3 years daily driving on United mainly, and they have never been cleaned.

Do you know what micron filter element you've got, Scott?

Another one, where are people mounting their GM flex-fuel sensors? I've got the flow through type and I thought I could mount it between my regulator and return line in the engine bay, but I can't see it happening. This thing is quite hard to mount with the factory hard lines :glare:

Do you know what micron filter element you've got, Scott?

Another one, where are people mounting their GM flex-fuel sensors? I've got the flow through type and I thought I could mount it between my regulator and return line in the engine bay, but I can't see it happening. This thing is quite hard to mount with the factory hard lines :glare:

In the boot. Tee off the return line just before it drops back into the tank. Hidden sensor FTW!

In the boot. Tee off the return line just before it drops back into the tank. Hidden sensor FTW!

Yeh? I did think of putting it there. Could maybe work something out... All seems a bit tight though, I can hardly see my return line let alone find a place to put two tees into it :/

Edited by Hanaldo

Yeh? I did think of putting it there. Could maybe work something out... All seems a bit tight though, I can hardly see my return line let alone find a place to put two tees into it :/

BRB, taking a photo for you :P

I think it's 100 micron mesh.

Don't you want the sensor as close to the rail as possible?

I can't see how it makes any difference. Either way, once the fuel is mixed, it's the same. Just dontn belt it until you see the reading settle.

Ah, you got the little small thing.

Yeh so they say. Its fkn massive! Ideally I would mount it close to the rail, but I can't see it fitting anywhere unless I remote mount the sensor and run like 2 meters of hose to it :/

Yeh so they say. Its fkn massive! Ideally I would mount it close to the rail, but I can't see it fitting anywhere unless I remote mount the sensor and run like 2 meters of hose to it :/

Under the car?

Just curious why I've seen a few setups with the flex sensor mounted in the boot? Another car I've seen setup by UNIGROUP has the flex sensor in the boot too?

What are the benefits? Is it just a convenience thing or heat stress thing?

Just curious why I've seen a few setups with the flex sensor mounted in the boot? Another car I've seen setup by UNIGROUP has the flex sensor in the boot too?

What are the benefits? Is it just a convenience thing or heat stress thing?

It's one less thing in an already full engine bay. No other reason.

How many free 0-5V inputs do you need on your ecu? The zeitronix Eca kit outputs fuel temp and ethanol % doesn't it?

1 I'm pretty sure. And yes fuel temp too. You can set up fuel temp correction too

Under the car?

Yeh this is what I was thinking of. It would be so much easier if I could cut the standard hard line, but I don't want to lose the flared end.

I think the easiest thing would just be to run a longer length of hose to the sensor. Just seems such a messy way of doing it :/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Speaking of diverting threads, my second ever NISMO purchase…. I think they look pretty classy and just wanted to share 😅   PS: 1st was the oil drain plug 😂  
    • R12 has not been not available for....decades now. Propane is not a great replacement. (I mean, it's a great replacement, but it is a bit too flammable). R134a being the only way to go forward with an R12 system. The design pressures etc, are close enough to R12's to work. The ability to move heat around is close enough to R12's to work.
    • Out of curiosity, what's the reason for converting? I think @R3N3 might have the Frenchy's kit in the R33? I somehow think of you as the ambassador for realistic and clean street-driven setups nowadays  
    • careful when running the car after a boil over. Ive heard you can lose enough coolant that it won't show the right temps because of too much air in the system (or something like that). Make sure the levels are good before trying again.  Maybe a mobile mechanic can come have a look with their scan tool ?
    • OK, just for some extra clarity - there is more than one option at Frenchy's. 1. You can buy the whole kit - with or without the actual compressor. The whole kit includes mounts, hoses, condensor, etc. That's either ~$2200 or ~$2800. No surgery required with this option. 2. You can buy just the bracket (~$600), or the bracket with the compressor (~$1200). Either of this or the above option "without the compressor" is if you already have an Echo comp or you are able to source one locally. Whatever the case, in this option, you will need surgery done on your hoses to adapt to the new compressor. When I said "the Frenchy's kit", I meant the whole kit in option 1. It is obviously somewhat more $$ than a $1500 OEM compressor. But if I had to spend $1500 on an OEM compressor, I would certainly consider spending double that to renew and significantly update everything forward of the firewall. Another option is to rebuild your original compressor. My R34 comp is currently dead and I will be most likely doing that to it if the spare one in the shed is also leaky.
×
×
  • Create New...