Jump to content
SAU Community

Power Steering Cut And Idling Issues!

EarthShore

By EarthShore,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

EarthShore Contributor

EarthShore

Posted
Posted (edited)

Power steering cut off while i was driving today. Took a tonne of muscle to move the steering wheel but it came back on after i straightened the wheel out. Also my RPM fluctuates up and down whilst idling. These issues don't always occur, it is really random.

Please help. Kind regards, Simon.

Also the RPM's dip low enough for the engine to cut off.

Edited by EarthShore
Sinista32 Grand Master

Sinista32

Posted
Posted

Obviously you know this is serious from having an accident point of view. brakes and steering affected.

By the time you feel it your engine has alsmost if not already stalled.

Normally I found when it happend to me to occur on corners. Seriously scary !!

Very rare when traveling in a straight line but occasionally had to keep the revs up at the lights.

I was thinking lack of fuel at one stage as it was normaly at qtr of a tank or less or round corners.

I didn't get to the bottom of it before significant work was undertaken on my GTR.

Sinista32 Grand Master

Sinista32

Posted
Posted

No Unfortuantely. I did a big end bearing.

Therefore had an engine rebuild. Whilst it was being rebuilt I had a lot of additioanl work done.

Personally I'd start by checking the flow of your fuel pump.

Could be time to replace fuel pump and repalce your fuel filter.

Hopefully someone like Jez and others can jump in on this thread.

bluey33 Experienced

bluey33

Posted
Posted

I had the same issue whilst drifting. Car would cut out on entries and all the lights would come on dash for split second then it would come back to me.

Caused a lot if straightening and frustrating. Wouldnt as such surge/splutter and carry on. More just cut out and turn back on within a second or so.

Even did it with full tank. Changed fuel pump still no different, checked earths all seemed fine. Never got to the bottom of it.

Plattsy Grand Master

Plattsy

Posted
Posted

my power steering becomes heavy after about 5 mins of driving, and im getting the rev drop when i stop, ive cleaned and resoldered afm, and changed the o2 sensor, ive also cleaned the aac valve which was black as the ace of spades! now im getting it but not as bad, ie its not stalling anymore! i think it could be a fuel pump earth issue, or the tps is not set correctly. ill be investigating this weekend.

Plattsy Grand Master

Plattsy

Posted
Posted

It was the fix I least expected! But I think the gear box on the auto ha something todo with the peer steering fluid???????????? I'd check afm AAc and tps sensors and I suppose a gear box oil change couldn't hurt! I was genuinely shocked when I topped it up and 10 mins later the car was driving like new! Let us know how you get on tomorro mate!

EarthShore Contributor

EarthShore

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Cleaned the AAC and checked the AFM but still didnt fix the idling issue. However I saw that the engines RPM could be manipulated by wiggling the bottom cord which connected to the TPS. I'm really starting to think it's the TPS. I ordered a new TPS and will fit it ASAP. I'll let you guys know how it goes. Cheers!

Plattsy Grand Master

Plattsy

Posted
Posted

Make sure it's positioned right, I don't know how to do it but there is a thread on here about how to set your tps, even if you put a new one on but it's in the wrong position, it still wont work properly x

EarthShore Contributor

EarthShore

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Thnx found it! Set the TPS to the correct voltage. It appears to have fixed the Idling problem, however it does idle too high now. I'm gonna have to do an idle reset tomorrow. Will let u know how it goes.

Also i lowered the idle using the screw on the AAC valve as much as I could. The idle still sits at a high 1200 rpm so I'm assuming I need to adjust the Idle using the idle screw on the ECU?

Edited by EarthShore
EarthShore Contributor

EarthShore

Posted
  • Author
Posted
http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/404812-help-setting-tps-on-r33-s2/ if u have a S2 its the brown plug (bottom one) and the middle red wire :) cheers for the help. After setting the correct voltage to my new tps the car runs like a dream. As for the power steering problem it seems to have subsided for now :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      WTB noltec r32 front upper (camber) arms

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'm firmly on the "zero compliance is good compliance" for FUCAs. I'd be looking to solid metal joints even if the primary reason for having them is because they facilitate the twist in the arm. I have never been more happy with the way the front suspension behaves than I have since I got rid of the FUCA bushes. Even the thin little (short lived) poly bushes in the Whiteline adjustables have too much compliance for my liking. It probably won't be long before I have sphericals nearly everywhere, probably including both top and bottom arms in the rear, and I'll start complaining about the increased costs for dental work. But I will be enjoying the driving more, I'm sure.
    • GTSBoy
      Brake pad Compound suggestion

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Plus, you'll get great experience in bedding in pads!
    • Matvei27
      WTB noltec r32 front upper (camber) arms

      By Matvei27 · Posted

      I have offset Nismo brackets so the fact the gktechs can pivot is less important to me. I have 170mm JIC arms with bushings - but they provide no adjustment and I'm not sure whiteline eccentric bushings will fit them (I don't want to ruin the bushings currently in them to find out). Ideally I want something with bushings + adjustment; hence why I'd like to find a pair of these. Unfortunately they aren't easy to find.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Brake pad Compound suggestion

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @Vee37 How much do you really care about finding these pads again? If your pads are quiet, work well and produce minimal dust, really isn't that enough? If you are set on finding the exact pads again, I suppose I'd do something like this -  Visit your local Jax, find out what brand of pads they carry. If the Jax workshop you previously went to had the pads on the shelf, then you can almost guarantee it will be of said brand.   I'm guessing you don't have the receipt for the previous work and pads. Can you visit a Jax workshop and see if they can look up your previous job to see what pads were fitted?  Still no luck? Put your stalker hat on, find the staff that used to work at the Jax store and ask them. Talk to local workshops, try to find out where the mechanics went to. Talk to Jax workshops, maybe they relocated to another workshop. When it comes to mechanics, its a small world. You'd be surprised how easy it is to track someone down. If these ideas don't work, shit will start getting crazy very quickly.... You could find out every brand and model of pad that fits that car... and try them individually ticking each off the list if it wasn't the one you were looking for.... If you go down this path your going to want to learn how to swap pads yourself, it is very easy, takes minimal tools and space. If you have room to park the car you have room to swap the pads. Plus you have the advantage of making sure all the brake hardware goes back in so they won't squeal! 
    • MBS206
      Beers and skylines Fatz style

      By MBS206 · Posted

      You miss spelled bearings...
×
×
  • Create New...