Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok where do I start...

So I have an r32 with a rb25 in it, end of last year i changed the engine to a new built forged rb25 with a new high mounted garrett gt3076. had all the bolt on mods pretty much everything done apart from cams.

So I did about 5000km on that until i wanted more power so I got a new Garrett T04Z and bolted that on and took it to the tuners via tow truck, they re-did the exhaust to a V-band and gave it a tune untill they found out my bosch 040 was maxing out at 5000rpm. So i went to the tuners and back a few times about a 10min drive, driving very slow and still had to take it back home to do more stuff to it because they were an absolute rip.

The car was running perfect but I didnt boost it to be safe. So I went all out and got a surge tank sorted with dual bosche 044's and a dual feed fuel rail and a new Jim berry full monty clutch. The first time i started the car with the new twin fed rail the car started smoking like hell real white smoke and it also sounded like its running on 5 cylinders. so i was thinking it was just overfueling or a plug came loose on one of the injectors or coilpacks.

Thats when i noticed that it was leaking oil from the bottom of the V-Band (so obviously it had an exhaust leak too) so I was very confused because this turbo is new. So I pulled the V-band off and there was oil in the exhaust. pulled intercooler and intake piping off and there was nothing. So i did a bit of searching and started with the easy stuff.

So Changed the Oil return and made sure it was flowing properly and clear. was running a -4 oil feed using a restrictor so changed that to a -3 and still leaking but i didnt think it would have been this because it would have leaked before. Checked the catch can set up just incase it was blocked and causing crankcase pressure and its clear and working perfectly but didnt think it would have been this either because I had this set up on my old engine and my new one.

Soooooooooo i got no idea now and just missed out on getting it tuned by Anthony Rodriguez so need some advice on what to do next.

Going to try a pressure test this weekend.

So the weird thing is it only started after I changed the fuel rail and added a few more fuel pumps and clutch.... SO pretty lost.

Any help would be great and no haters thanks

Is it definately oil?

Is it still missfiring? Reason i ask is a stuck injector can cause excessive white smoke.

Take the turbo off and check the manifold for any signs of oil etc (possible cylinder failed etc)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's more than one way to skin that cat, and most of the sump Maatouks have done will be GTR sumps. They are HUGE in GTR drag racing here.
    • Yeah...I always start at the shift solenoids, because there's only a few reasons these will spook into limp mode, and bad shift solenoids is one ~ the other can be the shift control module (if you have steering wheel shift buttons)...it's easier to eliminate the solenoids first.
    • Might piggy back off this thread since there's been a good discussion about PWM.   I purchased a Walbro 460 F90000267 and have been looking into PWM to understand it. It was purchased more of a future proof as my original OEM fuel pump died (r33 below 200kw) and figured I'd just upgrade it to this. That's when it hit me that a pump this big can cause more dramas with such high amperage draw and heating of the fuel pump being on 100% all the time in such a mild setup.   I have a Nexus R3 and slowly collecting power mods but I was looking into the PWM feature on the NSP software:   Then looking at the graph from the fuel pump:     Am I safe to assume reducing duty cycle to 50% for example would make the pump run like a 230/lph ? Where does the PWM come in all of this ?   I've gone down the rabbit hole of PWM fuel pumps and it seems there are many differing opinions on how to go about it 馃槄  
    • Thank you, this will keep me busy for a bit.  I will update progression.
    • That specific one would be an exchange part, meaning I'd have to send mine to them. Plus it looks like a non AWD sump, which won't work for me. There is one or two shops in my country that I can ask to do a sump extension job and it'd most likely end up being cheaper than sending mine to AUS or NZ and getting one back, and quicker too.
  • Create New...