Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys. I'm looking for some help on this please. The car usually runs around the 23 psi mark with no problems. It's like one day it was fine then took it out again and now it runs at a perfect 16 psi. Nothing unusual happened while driving either. The car still runs fine but at 16 instead of 23. Nothing was touched on the car or adjusted. I have taken it out a few more times since then and every time the same thing, 16 psi? Boost is controlled via a gizzmo ebc. The only thing I have tried is that I checked and re checked all joiners and clamps. I even changed a couple of silicone joiners that I felt may be suspect but still the same. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/404659-weird-boost-issue-advice-please/
Share on other sites

Is it an internal or external gate setup? it could be running gate pressure if the EBC isn't working? Mine does that when it plays up....

It's running internal gate setup. I did think that the ebc may not be working but I can still hear the solenoid working its little heart out, so I assumed it should be working but I could be wrong.

Unplug the boost controller and see if it still boosts at 16 and feels the same.

If it does still boost at 16 then chances are your controller is not working so borrow a mates controller and test it.

Sounds like its just running off the gate rather then the controller

  • 2 weeks later...

Turns out it was the EBC. After initially receiving a dodgy solinoid when I first bought the Gizzmo and now this, I have ordered a V2 turbotech. You've had two chances Gizzmo, now you can get stuffed.

At higher boost levels every psi is important so if your gunna go in the cheap with a manual valve make sure it's setup 100% as you don't want to lunch your motor by going cheap with boost control.....

In saying that I spent fkn heaps on a HKS controller and have issues so that kinda stuffs up my point a bit :/

Hi Mat. I've tried quite a few different manual controllers and I must say when these turbotech products came along, tried one and was amazed. I've currently whacked the original version back on for now so hopefully the V2 is even better. As for going the cheap I don't believe going cheap on the skyline it's just a bonus it's that price. They could of charged triple the price and I would still buy it.

I had the V1 and it was OK, it did tend to bleed off boost though... In saying that, they are a good bang for buck controller, have you got boost cuts etc setup in your ECU? Just for safety?

Mines setup so if the boost controller or gate fail for some reason it'll dump fuel in, pull timing out and then if I haven't backed off it will boost cut... So it's pretty safe ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The old manifold was quite under the GTR strut brace.  The new manifold is quite [unknown] the GTR strut brace. The GTR strut brace was needed to clear the bonnet vents. The Old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, but not the bonnet vents. The old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, and the new bonnet without vents. But I am hoping the GTR strut brace clears the new manifold :p
    • On the bright side, at least you knew that it happened and remedied before anything happened. A friend of mine just took his Fiat 124 to a shop for an oil change and they didn't tighten the oil filter housing properly. 4.5 quarts spewed out and even after refilling + tightening the cap the engine has a tick now.
    • So, more pain. The FAST manifold is a little larger than the stocker. This is problematic because there really wasn't much clearance to begin with, so going from 'barely enough' well into 'no' is sad based on the external dimensions of the thing, even though where it bolts to the head is the same. Result is the fuel rails sit a good 25mm higher, and this is a bit of an issue with the wiring that runs behind the motor, and the fuel lines, and everything else. When pushing the manifold on, it required a huge amount of force to crush wiring looms to fit it, sensors like the MAP sensor are about 1mm from the firewall, and the FPR just has to bend ABS lines to be forced into place. After some brainstorming and some sad drinking, the loom for some reason ran from the grommet behind the ABS sensor, then to the driver side head, then back to the passenger side head. So all of this was pulled back and stripped, a few wires cut and rejoined, so that the 'branch' was now on the passenger side's head as below: Before you basically couldn't see anything behind the driver head. This is much improved! The MAP sensor is now pointing up (instead of at the firewall) Brackets have been made up for the rail. The rails are for a LS1, the manifold is designed around a LS2 as it's base. Which of course has slightly different bracketry and water pump clearance, hence the mods people need to do. Should be hopefully mounted tonight. I spent money on a new FPR that is slightly more compact than my Turbosmart FPR1200. The gauge has also been moved to the rail. There's also apparently an ORB to AN Union instead of the adapter, because the ~25mm of the current adapter is going to make the difference. Provided this all goes together and arrives today, it'll be the totally not stressful attempt to start it.
    • This seems like a pointless exercise. There is no E30 availability. Ongoing availability of E85 should not be assumed. Flex-fuel is the only sensible approach, so you can use E85 when and where you can get it, 98 when that's al you can get, and anything in between as you fill it up and drain it down. And if that means replacing the pumps, fitting a flex capable sensor/ECU/whatever has to be done to these Renault shitboxen, then.....so be it?
×
×
  • Create New...