Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Skyline r34 gtt (rb25det neo)

I just installed some tomei poncams type b 260 degrees 9.15mm lift and as stated by tomei no need to upgrade the valve springs.

i also installed the adj cam gears but only the exhaust side would fit, intake cam gear didnt match the intake camshaft. so i just used one old and one new

the timing is perfect and the knock is only on idle and coming from the exhaust side.

at first i thought it was the CAS but not too sure.

im running stock afm and injectors at the moment but will upgrade once the knock has gone and it hasnt been tuned yet but that shouldnt cause a knock.

any help or suggestions would be much appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/404757-tomei-poncams-type-b-engine-knock/
Share on other sites

If its an r34 neo engine, it has solid lifters

This!!

They should be a drop in application, if you have done that and have the Ex gear set right it should be fine... Mine are sweet :)

This!!

They should be a drop in application, if you have done that and have the Ex gear set right it should be fine... Mine are sweet :)

Just for future reference, whilst they may "drop in", valve clearances should be checked and re-shimmed as required.

Yep, nissans clearances will be a better guide. and 'close enough' isn't good enough either keep in mind too much it'll slap the valve up and slam it on seat, too little and the valve wont get enough time on the seat to cool.

Actually the initial/final ramp rate has a lot to do with choosing clearances.

Having said that, going from Nissan's 0.2 - 0.25 sort of clearance to the 0.45 territory suggested by Tomei sounds like madness. You might add 0.05, not more than double.

Edited by GTSBoy

Don't trust those stickers, as part of compliance there has to be a sticker mentioning timing, clearances etc. Well mine says BTC of 15degrees (RB25), which if you know RB26's actually run a BTC of 20 degrees.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok gotcha, so one post to fpr  another to bov  and I have the mishimoto boost controller and a link g4+ so I’d just have the tuner set it up properly. For the last two from plenum post throttle to  ecu/ boost controller, I know that I have a hose coming from the ecu that I was confused about so I assume that’s what connect to the boost controller from the ecu? And then the last is just from plenum to boost controller then to wastegate?
    • From there, it was just a quick electrical check, prime the oil and start her up Which, is not what happened. 1. Bloody seppo Aeropro battery holder. Not only was it too tall for the battery (which I'll forgive them for, I have another battery the same nominal size that is taller than Neil's one, but the bracket is a fixed height so the battery was spaced up) But the thing that really shits me is the hardware to hold it on requires a 7/32 Hex key. WTF. No-one will ever be able to remove or install the damn thing without a hex key they don't own 2. Kill switch no longer worked once the console was installed. Neil mentioned above he had to adjust the length but it no longer cleared the console once installed. Sorted. 3. Suspiciously, the brake light holders were hanging in the boot with no globes. Sure enough the stopper on the brake pedal was missing so they are always on unless the kill switch is activated. Will pick one up tomorrow (turns out 32 and 33 don't use the same stopper) 4. All that sorted, I turned on the kill switch, turned the key to ACC. Nothing. Turned it to IGN. Nothing. Checked some fuses and found the main IGN in the boot was missing which improved things once it was replaced. Now ECU and dash lights turn on with IGN but still no fuel pump. 5. Turned it to Start....ECU on, no fuel pump, no starter. Plus the voltage dropped straight to 9v.  I suspect the starter is f**ked but am going to have to work through it all and see what is happening, really looks like more than one issue. Does anyone have the R33 fuse box key with the circuit it sources from (eg BAT, ACC, IGN, SRT etc) and supplies? I can find a translated list showing Amps and circuit without supply circuit, and I can find supply circuit without Amps and target circuit.
    • 3rd time lucky, the AAC is now all plumbed up after getting some final fittings All set up under the plenum of maximum access
    • OK, so the weight has been bugging because it was really low. I did it again today and got a more believable answer at 1246 without driver And with a 93kg driver I'm pretty sure the car was still slightly on the quickjack last time meaning the full weight was not on the scales  
×
×
  • Create New...