Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I bought two new door trims for my r34, well they are second hand and the idiots wrote 'r33' on them in bright Fluro pink permanent marker, I tried using wax and grease remover, metho, degreaser even deodorant spray but it won't come out?! What else can I use? Thanks team.

Try rubbing alcohol or even bit of petrol. Petrol itself should do the job. If not, I don't recommend this but Acetone or nail polish remover will take it straight off. The only downside to acetone is that it will eat into the plastic. You can quickly and gently put a few drops of acetone on a cotton wool or towel or tissue, have another soaked with just water and once you wipe it with the acetone, immediately wipe it over with the water to dilute and stop it from eating in.

Just another thought that popped in my mind, try use a whiteboard marker and colour over the permanent. That's what I did to get rid of permanent markers in school white boards :)

Let me know how you go!

  • 4 weeks later...

I've had success just using a medium grade cutting compound with a DA polisher on marks such as these on painted surfaces, however not on interior panels.

I have also successfully removed superglued badges and drips - etc from painted surfaces in the past by using acetone and cotton wool. If you do it quickly, as in - wipe on and wipe off, you will hopefully not damage the paint.

OP - You could try a bit of standard armour all or similar to see if it restores colour to the area and the rest of the door, otherwise maybe some of the pro's in the detailing forum section can be of assistance here.

Was just thinking, i'm going to be getting some of this product for my window rubbers soon.

http://www.carcareproducts.com.au/product/black_wow/black_wow

I know it says its for exteriors, but if your in Sydney im happy to let you try a bit on your door trim if you like.

Might have some luck.

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi mate,

I've had a similar issue with a different car. I used a product called "Shift-It" made by Kenco. I use this stuff to remove window tint glue, but it also works very well at removing other stuff. Spray a bit onto a rag, and scrub, and it should remove it all. Make sure you wash it off using Prepsol, or Wax &Grease remover, because if you leave it on too long, it will soak into your door trim, and ruin it.

Cheers,

Shazza

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
    • Sorry for reviving an old post, but I'm having the same hot idle tick issue. Did anyone ever find out what it was?  I have checked/ replaced Injectors Coils checked Lifter clerance (is at zero) Checked Cam lobes Replaced exhaust gasket and studs Would appreciate any advice this is driving me nuts  
    • There's a huge reason manufacturers are tuning in dead flat torque curves... Make them reliable (and more drive able)
×
×
  • Create New...