Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hello everyone,

im looking for a pair of R33 headlights, the ones that are in my skyline now have seen better days, they leak and no matter what i do i cant seem to get the plastic on them clear. I got a new pair priced and they want $650 EACH. So if anyone knows of a good secondhand place or are selling a pair of good quality headlights please let me know..........thanks.

liz :headspin:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/40476-r33-headlights/
Share on other sites

Series 1 or 2?

S2 is probably twice as expensive.

Unfortunately GOOD clear, non hazed lights are something like $650 - $700 a pair.

The ones you see for $300 or less are really rubbish ones off a 1993 that have turned yellow in the sun. Notice the bottom is painted black and as it ages, it goes clear.

I supplied one to someone on the forum here and I think he's happy with it (Where are ya Chris?).

Mine are good now although I suspect my left isn't watertight - it mists a bit and dries out in the sun.

Here's some pics of my new looking lights...

http://www.nitroware.net/~tony/xenon1.jpg

http://www.nitroware.net/~tony/xenon2.jpg

http://www.nitroware.net/~tony/xenon3.jpg

If you're really stuck, gimme a yell and I'll see what I can do - I fixed mine ages ago after lots of hunting around.

T.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/40476-r33-headlights/#findComment-831258
Share on other sites

Tony, I'm assuming that your headlight mists up regardless of the weather conditions. That would indicate that it is still water tight, because rather than "drying up" it's just turning to vapour and staying in there to recondense when it cools off again.

If that's the case, what you wanna do is to take out one of the head light sockets on a dry warm day (ie not humid) and leave it out in the sun for a couple of hours. That will give the water vapour a chance to escape. Then put the socket back it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/40476-r33-headlights/#findComment-831639
Share on other sites

Hey Tony :)

The headlight I bought from you was nice and clear but looks like it has a leak somewhere as well or perhaps some water got in somehow and hasnt been able to evaporate out since. It still looks 100% fine most of the time except after a decent rain but im not that fussed.

The best way to restore a R33 headlight ive found is to just use some metal polish or any abrasive cleaner on the front outside plastic.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/40476-r33-headlights/#findComment-832776
Share on other sites

The best way to restore a R33 headlight ive found is to just use some metal polish or any abrasive cleaner on the front outside plastic.

With the frequency of rain in Sydney, that's not too big a deal!

The other way you can fix old lights is to get a smash repairer (someone you know preferably) to remove the light, use abrasive cleaner and polish and sand and respray the bottom of the light black.

Of course the removal and labour is expensive which is why this is a DIY thing or unless you have a mate in the business.

My mate said he'd do mine for $80 a pair but in the end, it is typical that I'd take the most labourious and expensive approach...

T.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/40476-r33-headlights/#findComment-835046
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

To get the yellow off the lens of your headlight, get some car polish and a good rag and test it in a small area first...make sure u use just straight polish and not cut and polish or else it will scratch ur headlights...give it a go its worked for me

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/40476-r33-headlights/#findComment-855048
Share on other sites

hello everyone,

im looking for a pair of R33 headlights, the ones that are in my skyline now have seen better days, they leak and no matter what i do i cant seem to get the plastic on them clear. I got a new pair priced and they want $650 EACH. So if anyone knows of a good secondhand place or are selling a pair of good quality headlights please let me know..........thanks.

liz :headspin:

Hey there r33bdg1rlnsw,

You can buy a gel type cream especially for this task.

Here's the ad:

HEADLIGHT CLEANER SUIT

R33, SOARER OR ANY

PLASTIC HEADLIGHT $19.99

www.justjap.com

Hope this helps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/40476-r33-headlights/#findComment-855072
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Very decent bit of kit. Definitely black it out I reckon.  
    • Because people who want that are buying euros. The people with the money to buy the aftermarket heads and blocks aren’t interested in efficiency or making -7 power, they’re making well over 1,000hp and pretty much only drive them at full throttle  best way to way make money is know your customer base and what they want and don’t spend money making things they don’t want. 
    • It's not, but it does feel like a bit of a missed opportunity regardless. For example, what if the cylinder head was redesigned to fit a GDI fuel system? It's worth like two full points of compression ratio when looking at modern GDI turbo vs PFI turbo. I'm pretty reliably surprised at how much less turbo it takes to make similar power out of a modern engine vs something like an RB26. Something with roughly the same dimensions as a -7 on an S55 is making absolutely silly power numbers compared to an RB26. I know there's a ton of power loss from things like high tension rings, high viscosity oil, clutch fan, AWD standby loss, etc but it's something like 700 whp in an F80 M3 vs 400 whp in an R33 GTR. The stock TF035HL4W turbos in an F80 M3 are really rather dinky little things and that's enough to get 400 whp at 18 psi. This just seems unwise no? I thought the general approach is if you aren't knock limited the MFB50 should be held constant through the RPM range. So more timing with RPM, but less timing with more cylinder filling. A VE-based table should accordingly inverse the VE curve of the engine.
    • I've seen tunes from big name workshops with cars making in excess of 700kW and one thing that stood out to me, is that noone is bothering with torque management. Everyone is throwing in as much timing as the motor can take for a pull. Sure that yields pretty numbers on a dyno, but it's not keeping these motors together for more than a few squirts down the straight without blowing coolant or head gaskets. If tuners, paid a bit more attention and took timing out in the mid range, managed boost a bit better, you'll probably see less motors grenading. Not to name names, or anything like that, but I've seen a tune, from a pretty wild GT-R from a big name tuner and I was but perplexed on the amount of timing jammed into it. You would have expected a quite a bit less timing at peak torque versus near the limiter, but there was literally 3 degrees of difference. Sure you want to make as much as possible throughout the RPM range, but why? At the expense of blowing motors? Anyhow I think we've gone off topic enough once again lol.
    • Because that’s not what any of them are building these heads or blocks for. It’s to hold over over 1000hp at the wheels without breaking and none of that stuff is required to make power 
×
×
  • Create New...