Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Few parts for sale mostly 32 some 33. Prices ono.

Pickup Beerburrum/ caboolture. Will post some + extra.

-Running rb20 170k had 100k major + every 10k few broken exhaust studs. 300

-Spare rb20 long motor have extra intake and exhaust manifolds. 200

-Auto box from rb20. From the running motor. Bout 120k on it before conversion. 150

- rb oem clutch bout 50k old. Easy 50% left new spigot 100

-Apexi Safc 1, small scratch on face. 1m loom and plug. 200

-Rb25 turbo, banjos bigger than rb20. Feels decent, twin fin wheel. Maybe stagea. 150

-Rb20 turbo, still usable, pulled off at 80k, for bigger. Boosted fine. 100

-R33 drivers window motor. Was different to r32 4 dr. 30

-Set of 18" wheels multi stud. 2 damaged, 1 slightly dented, last fine. All tyres about 50%+. 300ish

-Rb20 ac fan 12v. 20

-90* intake pipe with blitz bov. 50

-Jensen 760w 4 ch amp and 1000w Sony xplod 12". 150

-2 rb20 actuators SN79 8-10 pound. 50 each or with turbo

-Cusco Gtr front strut brace. Don't fit gtst. 50

-Rb20 clutch bleed loop n box. 30

-R32 gtst auto brake pedal. 30

-R32 main loom. A plug missing. 150

-Rb20 afm,tested, flange loose. Fixable. 100

-R32 clear gtst indicators, had a stack with em. Left scratched abit, right fine. Missing top mounts. 15

-m spec wing, coupe i think. 3 mount points.charcoal. 50

-R32 auto 4 dr gearbox mount. 30

-Blits kits Gold coast gtst bonnet, ADR approved with stickers, Black, few scratches and chips. 250

-R32 gtr n1 bonnet lip. From just jap, supposed to be new, never used. 80

Pm on the forums, reegularly checking. Cheers, Jason

Pics up shortly

Edited by Jason32gtst
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/404771-brisbanesunny-coast-r32-parts/
Share on other sites

Pretty much as it come out bout 6 months ago. Intake side all there. Got tps, coils, one had slight miss, could chuck in either turbo. 33 one would need different water lines. Few temp sensors missing, no ps pump or alt. 1 knock sensor there, might have the other. Have a spare top crossover. Will get some detailed pics if ya like. Could sort whatever is missing I reckon. Thanks mate

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Saruthewhite hasn’t been on our site since November 2016 sorry mate
    • Note when Duncan says that, he means "when you're not using the correct lifting points on the sills, because you want to work on the sills. A 2 post hoist is not appropriate for everything anyway, and working on the sills is a good example of that, because the arms go under ths sills anyway. You're better off finding another way to support the car off the ground. Beyond that everything else D said is correct. Only the dedicated jacking points are the correct place to lift. Anywhere else is incorrect, extra caution and awareness must be used, etc etc.
    • Your off site links didn't work for me, and in any case it is easier for forum members if you post the pic directly either as an attachment or a link so the information is all in one place. That aside, the sills are the correct place to lift the car, whether with the factory jack or a hoist. Yes you should use rubber blocks with a slit for the seam on a hoist to avoid bending the pinch weld (where yours is currently bent, just bend it back if possible eg vicegrips), and be aware of the height you need in the blocks to clear any sill extensions to the hoist arms as it lifts If what you are doing needs access to the sills, the rear subframe bush would also be strong and secure. I'm not sure what you mean by sidemember (maybe same part I mean by sills) but be careful that your front support point is not too far back as the car is very front heavy and could overbalance.
    • Here's my first iteration - white duct tape so color is off, but this is just a straight line across the bonnet lip. From a geometry standpoint, this is probably closest to what a GTR has. Next up is some $5 white pearl vinyl and some rubber door sill trim, applied to the BACK of the bonnet lip. It's more accurate placement to the GTR, but also follows the body lines on this setup a bit more. Couple more pics on this config incoming: Again, a $5 vinyl and rubber job, it's  POC still and not how I'm gonna run this part. But one thing I'll note is that the black trim does need to "straighten out" a bit, and instead of going completely along the line of the bonnet lip, might be better suited to wrap over the "horns" of the bonnet lip, giving it a less aggressive curve up at the ends.  The correct way to do this would be to paint it body-matched and then decide how you want to make the black line. If you used paint or a pinstripe, you could have the black line go straight to the corner of the headlight where the rubber strip typically meets the headlight on a GTR.   Hope this helps!
×
×
  • Create New...