Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  On 24/07/2012 at 11:15 PM, tripsteady said:

so is this the definitive cause? would it also be leaks as suggested?

Im gonna give both the aac valve and the cold start control valve a good clean tomorrow, ill report back if i find any changes but so far from what i have researched, it seems to be the cure for the cold start up problems every morning. Im gonna clean the o2 sensors as well. Hopefully it makes a difference.

  On 25/07/2012 at 1:17 PM, Deza3000 said:

Im gonna give both the aac valve and the cold start control valve a good clean tomorrow, ill report back if i find any changes but so far from what i have researched, it seems to be the cure for the cold start up problems every morning. Im gonna clean the o2 sensors as well. Hopefully it makes a difference.

cheers awaiting your post

Hmmm...every morning same thing with me....Idles low when I first start , sputters and sometimes dies....If I blip the throttle slightly it seems to "catch" and hold its revs. I plan to put a remote start in soon so this is quite annoying. Lets hope we find the culprit quickly and if we do...then lets get this as a sticky...

  On 26/07/2012 at 9:55 AM, dyl33 said:

Well I cleaned the aac valve. It felt better for sure but it still died, I havn't driven the car for a couple of days so it was prob going to start shit anyway, So will see tomorrow for sure if it worked or not.

Cheers for the report dyl33, ive been a little busy past few days, ill clean the aac valve out tonight and report back if i see any difference. But still its good to see that it made a bit of difference. I started my car this morning and it didnt die this time, I left it outside in the cold over night for the first time in a few months instead of in the garage, it didnt struggle as much to start which is odd, but maybe that's just a one off coincidence. Edited by Deza3000

Ive just finished cleaning the aac valve and it starts up so much better, just went for a long drive. The start up was almost instant, very smooth and quieter idle than before, however thats only in the period of 5 hours since it was last turned on. I will let you guys know how it starts tomorrow morning, hoping for the best, but other than that so far so good!

well its just gotten worse for me. was extremely cold this morning , started it up , revs started to drop , so i blipped the throttle slightly , when i took my foot of it started to drop again. this is the first time its happened. I had to rev it a bit higher for it to "catch" and hold steady...

Will be looking at my aac and following this thread closely

Edited by tripsteady

Hey guys, its been 2 days since i last started the car, started the car up this morning, and i gotta say, it started up absolutely brilliant. The revs started off low for not even a millisecond and it was pretty much 100%. No lumpyness, no idle problems, no stalling. Cleaning the aac valve pretty much worked for me. i give it 9/10 points. Just a heads up i didnt just clean the aac valve, but i cleaned the intake where the aac valve connects too, as well as the pipings and all surrounding areas, spent 3 hours cleaning it. Used a tooth brush to scrub off all the dirt etcc. Hopefully it works for you guys too, i also turned the idle control valve fully open to clean out the gunk, then i returned it to its original postion, i also used a vaccum cleaner and sucked any stray dust that was present in the intake and in the aac valve. Other than that, i pretty much followed the rest of the diy guide.

  On 30/07/2012 at 9:37 AM, Deza3000 said:

Hey guys, its been 2 days since i last started the car, started the car up this morning, and i gotta say, it started up absolutely brilliant. The revs started off low for not even a millisecond and it was pretty much 100%. No lumpyness, no idle problems, no stalling. Cleaning the aac valve pretty much worked for me. i give it 9/10 points. Just a heads up i didnt just clean the aac valve, but i cleaned the intake where the aac valve connects too, as well as the pipings and all surrounding areas, spent 3 hours cleaning it. Used a tooth brush to scrub off all the dirt etcc. Hopefully it works for you guys too, i also turned the idle control valve fully open to clean out the gunk, then i returned it to its original postion, i also used a vaccum cleaner and sucked any stray dust that was present in the intake and in the aac valve. Other than that, i pretty much followed the rest of the diy guide.

cheers for that , will definitely give this a go and post results

  On 01/08/2012 at 4:56 AM, dyl33 said:

Hmmm, Why didn't it work for me? Was I suppose to clean inside the aac solenoid (the brown plug)?

Yea you were actually, also try turning the throttle a little, open it up a bit more

It must be the cold start valve under the plenum, from what ive seen around the skyline forums a lot of people are having this problem, how ever there still hasn't been 100% guaranteed solution to why it has been happening. No one really had bothered to clean the cold start valve under the plenum. A few people with turbo'd skyilnes cold start problems were due to aftermarket bovs etc...I dont think it would be a fuel injector problem cause then you would start to see symptoms while driving as well. And yes that was the same case with me too, when i tickled the throttle the motor would stabilize , thats why i opened up my aac valves idle position all the way so it does a slight throttle when starting up, eliminating the problem. However this is at the cost of ruining my idle position, now it idles at 950 rpm as opposed to 700. Ill have to give the cold start valve a shot by cleaning that, ill have to get done by the mechanic.

Just an update, ive done a little experiment, i returned the throttle to its original position on the aac valve and turned on the car, but this time what i did was i turned the key for a fraction of a second longer than usual, and the car started up perfectly. Basically just hold the key in the ignition position for 0.5 to 1 second longer and it should start up normal. My theory is, the spark isnt fully igniting the fuel because the battery dies over night explaining why it happens every morning, resulting in the car to struggle on what little spark it was given to start up the motor. This is just my theory, but you guys should give it a shot, turn it on for a fraction of a second longer. Hope it works!

  On 06/08/2012 at 2:25 PM, Deza3000 said:

Just an update, ive done a little experiment, i returned the throttle to its original position on the aac valve and turned on the car, but this time what i did was i turned the key for a fraction of a second longer than usual, and the car started up perfectly. Basically just hold the key in the ignition position for 0.5 to 1 second longer and it should start up normal. My theory is, the spark isnt fully igniting the fuel because the battery dies over night explaining why it happens every morning, resulting in the car to struggle on what little spark it was given to start up the motor. This is just my theory, but you guys should give it a shot, turn it on for a fraction of a second longer. Hope it works!

worth a try for you guys but ive put an optima yellow top in recently and there is no way the battery has anything to do with this problem

mentioned it to Paden when I dropped my car off for the 100 thou service this morning , lets see what he comes up with.

  On 09/08/2012 at 8:08 AM, dyl33 said:

Today I held the key in the start position for 1 second longer , And it fired up perfect... What the hell

So it worked for you too aye? Well i guess its good news we found the cure, but i dont understand why it needs that extra second. Atleast i wont have the dodgy start ups anymore. And i guess that aac valve didnt really do much in the end. Only way the aac valve would help the start up problem was if you increased the idle speed, which was getting rather annoying, hence why i returned it back to normal and done this little experiment ;p. Glad it worked your you as well!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maf is a question mark but TPS  I have set at 0.47, the fact that I’m getting proper voltage range out of it with the key on leads me to believe it’s functioning properly. I’m getting proper voltages on basically everything. I still need to look up voltage ranges for z32 maf and test that 
    • Honestly no not at all, but it’s a very basic tune, it’s stock injectors q45 tps and z32 maf. Other than that it’s a completely stock base map. The file is from nistune and from my understanding if it was tune related I would be able to unplug maf and tps and it would still start even if it was a really shitty start. I have tried starting it with coolant temp, maf, and tps unplugged none of those 3 togethor or individually changes anything 
    • 🏆 Skyline Supremacy Meets Mount Panorama Magic 🏆 Join SAU NSW as we take the long way to Bathurst, the home of GTR greatness. Saturday 30th August 2025 7:00AM Meeting Hanna Park North Richmond 7:30AM Departure Cruise Via Bells of Line Road 9:00AM Arrival to Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat 9:45AM Arrival to Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit Meet Location: Hanna Park North Richmond Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit   *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day   Highway gets as low as 10l/100km on my end so I'm not as worried about it being a mechanical issue. More likely just the tune on the haltech.
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
×
×
  • Create New...