Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So it worked for you too aye? Well i guess its good news we found the cure, but i dont understand why it needs that extra second. Atleast i wont have the dodgy start ups anymore. And i guess that aac valve didnt really do much in the end. Only way the aac valve would help the start up problem was if you increased the idle speed, which was getting rather annoying, hence why i returned it back to normal and done this little experiment ;p. Glad it worked your you as well!

picked the car up from paden , he adjusted something but was really strapped for time and had to get to work so didnt get to ask him what exactly.

he did also clean the aac valve ,and this morning it seemed to be fine , but will have to wait to see if the problem is solved

picked the car up from paden , he adjusted something but was really strapped for time and had to get to work so didnt get to ask him what exactly.

he did also clean the aac valve ,and this morning it seemed to be fine , but will have to wait to see if the problem is solved

Ohh really?? Niceee, might be the idle perhaps?? Did you notice it idling slightly higher? As long as the problems gone should be all sweet =)

Ohh really?? Niceee, might be the idle perhaps?? Did you notice it idling slightly higher? As long as the problems gone should be all sweet =)

it idles a but higher but started my car this morning and it did the same thing. So i held the key in the start position for a bit longer then cranking and it worked!

as suggested previously this is the fix , but what is the cause?

it idles a but higher but started my car this morning and it did the same thing. So i held the key in the start position for a bit longer then cranking and it worked!

as suggested previously this is the fix , but what is the cause?

In all honesty i have no clue what the cause is, at least we've sold the problem. Still would like to know why that extra 1 second determines whether the car starts like crap or not. Might ask the mechanic.

sorry mate you lost me, no clue what a moderator sticky is =p

sticky = A Topic or thread that is at the top of a section and marked as important .Stickys contain important information which each member should read.

Mod = Moderator = A person who moderates an Internet bulletin board or chat room

sticky = A Topic or thread that is at the top of a section and marked as important .Stickys contain important information which each member should read.

Mod = Moderator = A person who moderates an Internet bulletin board or chat room

Ohhh right my bad, will do!

ur not a mod man , its not something u can do

Ohhh right my bad, i get ya, sorry i dont use these forums much until recently. Thought the person who started the topic is in control of it.

Anyways for anyone who does visit this forum, we just turn the key for an extra second while starting up in the morning and it solves the start up problem, however we just dont know what the problem is although we found the cure.

  • 2 weeks later...

For some reason my car doesn't do it anymore.

Now it starts fine, little higher idle while cold, then goes to the normal 650-700rpm once warmed up, Then somtimes after stopping it idles high before dropping to the normal again.

Anyway cold starting problem is no more. fingers crossed

Just a note guys your TPS can cause this issue too. Tps giving a false reading when cold makes the af ratio go way rich causing idle and stalling problems. Test your tps with a multi meter. Its not an issue when the engine is warm as the warm engine can cope with the richer mixture.

Regards

Drews performance and mechanical repairs

Edited by vh45tt

this has been happening with mine as well, i have cleaned the AAC valve with little success. i am going to try the holding the key on longer tomorrow morning. With this action will it not hurt the starter tho? Thanks for this forum tho much help

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't do it if your gearbox box has already having syncro issues. The short hifter will put a greater load on them. If you must I remember Nismo did a shorter shifter, with the top part being physically shorter and the part that went into the gearbox was the same as stock. In saying that I've had a C's short shifter (I think) in mine for many years, which was given to me as the previous owner was not sympathetic to the gearbox. Thus forwarned I was careful and had to modify my normal changing style. You have to be super accurate with your clutch and shifts
    • Well, after a week of daily driving and having to crawl out between the wheel and the side intrusion bars. I got myself a quick release setup. I went with an NRG short hub and Quick Release with some cute heart cutouts on the pull tabs. Nice and matchy matchy with the rest of the interior accents I have going on.  The only downside is the total stack height even with the short adapter is longer than the old HKB boss kit. Luckily I had some adjustment left on the column so move the wheel away.
    • stock shifter with new bushes, springs and cup will improve it. Gktech do all the bits. The opinion as the years have gone on is the redline is not great in old gearboxes.
    • Hi all   what short shifter do you use on your skykine r34?   my synchronous does have a problem and i was getting huge delay and grinding sound between 2nd and 3rd, did put shockproof red heavy stuff and it is great now/ no issues   would in your view short shifter screw this up?   people seems to suggest/ use cube short shifter and there is standard and premium. Seen review of premium as much better and less play. Thoughts?
    • Yeah, there's a bit of a density and friability difference between pebbles and any of those other things. Silicone will definitely float in oil and so will be mobile enough to move around. Although, again, if it is upstream of the filter it really shouldn't go any further. I would only ever worry about silicone when it is in places downstream of the filter. Upstream of the pickup is a whole 'nother matter. We've all seen what that does. I have seen the most abominable crap settled out in industrial gearboxes, trunnion lube systems and the like, without any sign that any of it has touched anything in the machine. Just chilling in the bottom, waiting for the inevitable operator error that causes the whole machine to need to be dismantled for repairs.
×
×
  • Create New...