Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

as some of you may know I'm doing a build on my R33 GTS25T 2 door.

currently just a bare engine in the bay atm so ive purchased many parts.

today i recieved my inlet manifold i bought off ebay.

slide industries is the company i purchased from, owned by drifter Ryan Cummings

from what I understand they get them from china and do a thorough inspection of the product.

First impressions unboxing.

Good packaging, everything covered.

overall inspection, good design, good quality, no gaps no casting out of place. inside is really clean and smooth but I highly recommend you always give a thorough clean to any cast products you plan on running.

all the galleries line up, came with all fittings. only thing missing was a throttle body gasket, got some gasket paper and sealant to do the job.

Only got a couple of pictures as I wont be instaling it until my oil filter relocation kit and oil cooler get fitted.

post-86315-0-38161800-1342439002_thumb.jpg

post-86315-0-15292200-1342439032_thumb.jpg

Rough test fit

post-86315-0-31175400-1342439068_thumb.jpg

going to need a new washer bottle, pretty sure ill use an R34 one.

Edited by Crazy Xav

more or less fitment wise, i was expecting to have to get it machine out to line up with the ports on the the head. but did some fitment tests and all lines up so should flow reasonably well.

I will definitely get the face machined as a safeguard. I dont expect any performance increase what so ever. more of a convenience thing (less piping & easier to work on)

Looks fairly simple to install also, but for reference here is what ill be going by.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/181826-how-to-greddy-style-plenum-install/page__hl__plenum

Upon removing old inlet manifold (hours and many swears later) one of the heater hoses broke, which happened to be the only non nissan hose, definitely using all nissan genuine hoses.

may paint it black if it shouts "defect me" lol.

I will definitely get the face machined as a safeguard. I dont expect any performance increase what so ever. more of a convenience thing (less piping & easier to work on)

you will find its the oposite, everything on the intake side of the engine (under the intake) is now harder to get to and work on. i have and have had the greddy intake for years, prepare to swear at the car any time you need to do something under there.

Damn! lol. i swear enough at this car as it is.

was an absolute b*#ch to remove the standard one, as the car had the cruise control module and alarm siren right next to the inlet manifold.

they have been moved (cruise removed) and oil filter relocation going on as it was already a big job gettng to the oil flter without covering everything.

Have you ever had to do a starter motor with the GReddy fitted?

Makes changing spark plugs a breeze :D did you go with the stock size throttle body, or a bigger size? From what I understand, no real performance benefit with either fhe bigger TB.. Just a more touchy throttle feel, and the ability to flow more air, with less of a pressure drop, and a drop in temp.

Going off the venturi effect anyway :D

from what ive read it can make throttle response doughy down low but improve mid-high range?

It came with a 80mm throttle body. being aftermarket there is no where for tps sensor? hopefully this wont effect much as I'll be using a wolf ecu.

Paid $700 for the kit, there is a fair few cheaper ones, but you have to source nipples and hoses.

Yeah its just a b!+ch to do! that top bolt.. so many grazes and my neighbours asking me to stop yelling lol.

Yeah ive read you loose a fair bit of mid range. Pretty annoyed i have to cut a hole under the washer bottle, as it already has a FMIC and the hole has been cut to the side. But its all a learning experience i guess.

You could try putting in a machined spacer plate between the plenum and head. Ive read of guys thinking this could counter-act some of the loss in midrange. Are you running e85?

Going from 98 to e85, personally I think the difference in midrange wont be overly felt, as the fruit juice would bring up the midrange anyway.

As for the throttle being doughy down low, there is a bit of a misconception about this.. You have to remember that with the bigger throttle body, each degree of movement compared to the stock item, is actually opening a larger area = more air for a given movement = more power due to more combustion = a very touchy throttle.

Turbo size, etc, also plays a big part.

Ive also heard of the spacer idea, as the longer runners on the standard item are what make it so balanced. not sure if ill be going E85 yet, going to be mainly street driven and tbh going from a standard tune to whatever the end result is ill be happy.

The turbo is a Hypergear ATR43. G2.5 profile. unsure of exact specs. Thankyou to everyone who suggested I get one of these turbos :D

Check the flange with a straight edge and pressure test before fitting. Buy or make an adapter and use your stock throttle body and TPS (sell the 80mm one to get a few $$ back).

Yeah its just a b!+ch to do! that top bolt.. so many grazes and my neighbours asking me to stop yelling lol.

Yeah ive read you loose a fair bit of mid range. Pretty annoyed i have to cut a hole under the washer bottle, as it already has a FMIC and the hole has been cut to the side. But its all a learning experience i guess.

I wonder if there is anyway possible to avoid cutting a new hole and reusing the hole previously cut, I am also thinking of moving to an aftermarket plenum (purely because I want to lol).

It seems there is enough room to run a 45 degree silicon pipe then straight down and back into the existing cut hole.

Does anyone have a photo?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even with the piston at TDC there was room for it to drop, but I don't think it can drop fully into the cylinder, the problem you have is that you need something pushing against the valve to hold it up so you have enough room to put the new stem seal on and the spring etc.  I used compressed air only because putting rope in the cylinder seemed a bit risky to me, I know people have done it countless times before like this. Overall it's a pain in the ass job. Honestly you'd probably be better off taking the head off because the risk of dropping something in the engine and the finicky-ness of it all is very stressful. If you are going to attempt it though i 10000% recommend a 36050 valve spring/keeper tool. I had both the traditional lever type and after doing 1 cylinder it was absolute pain to get those valve keepers in place, even with 2 people. That 36050 is amazing, you do have to push hard to get them in place but it works perfectly almost every time. Back to my actual issue I think my engine is just tired and old and the rings have gone bad. The comp numbers (cold, no oil) were: Cyl 1 -129psi Cyl 2 - 133psi Cyl 3 - 138psi Cyl 4 - 137psi Cyl 5 - 157psi Cyl 6 - 142psi   Cylinder 5 and 6 having the most carbon on them.
    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
×
×
  • Create New...