Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I've had my M35 up on carsales for a while:

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/nissan-stagea-2001-12843073?base=1216&vertical=Car&Range=Price:Min,Max~0.5&eapi=2&sort=default&cr=0&__N=1246%201247%201252%201282%201216&silo=Stock&find=bly89n|CarAll

I haven't been very active on the forums this year as my new job has completely taken over, so after having a bit of a look around I think I may have been asking a bit too much. My question is, what do you guys think it's worth?

I'm off to Europe in mid August & the car needs to be gone by then, to help things along I'm offering $300 cash to anyone who can help find a buyer.

Cheers,

Will

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405027-selling-my-m35/
Share on other sites

I saw your car for sale when I was looking for an M35 back in Jan/Feb & it had been advertised at $16k for a while even then - I never bothered ringing because the ad said you were going overseas & I assumed it was sold and that was why the car was still advertised after so long...

My advice - pay the $40 for a new ad with new pics so it doesn't look like it's still for sale after so long - people will assume there's something wrong with it if it's still not sold after an extended time.

Good luck moving it mate.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405027-selling-my-m35/#findComment-6449339
Share on other sites

I saw your car for sale when I was looking for an M35 back in Jan/Feb & it had been advertised at $16k for a while even then - I never bothered ringing because the ad said you were going overseas & I assumed it was sold and that was why the car was still advertised after so long...

My advice - pay the $40 for a new ad with new pics so it doesn't look like it's still for sale after so long - people will assume there's something wrong with it if it's still not sold after an extended time.

Good luck moving it mate.

Thanks for the advice mate, just finishing up a new ad for it now. I was thinking of doing a new ad as this one may have become a bit "stale"

My contract at work has been extended three times this year, so the trip overseas has been pushed back. Flights are booked now, 20th of August we're outta here!

Thanks again.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405027-selling-my-m35/#findComment-6450350
Share on other sites

Here's the updated carsales ad:

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/nissan-stagea-2001-13035553?base=1216&vertical=Car&Range=Price:Min,Max~0.5&eapi=2&sort=default&cr=0&__N=1246%201247%201252%201282%201216&silo=Stock&find=bly89n|CarAll

Jeez for a moment u thought my car was on sale...until I noticed the missing blanking plates...

God luck with the sale.

Haha, the car had the blanking plates when I bought it but one popped out heading southbound on the Harbour Bridge...... I wasn't jumping out to get it. I just took the other one out when I got home.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405027-selling-my-m35/#findComment-6450903
Share on other sites

Here's the updated carsales ad:

http://www.carsales....d=bly89n|CarAll

Haha, the car had the blanking plates when I bought it but one popped out heading southbound on the Harbour Bridge...... I wasn't jumping out to get it. I just took the other one out when I got home.

Did they not have clips on the inner edge to hold them in place?

I used these when I fitted mine; no way they would be able to fall off.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4mm-Snap-Push-Rivets-pack-10-/300395677164?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item45f0fa45ec

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405027-selling-my-m35/#findComment-6451289
Share on other sites

G'day Will.

Just a thought... If you swap most of performance parts to OEM with cash adjustment your way you could easily get 3.5-4K. If you drop the price ot your car by 3K it will be the cheapest in Australia so gone pretty quickly I imagine. A bit of fuss over parts off/on, but given the time this car was on sale you might wanna give it a shot... Your call, just an idea that could possibly work if you are willing to take a risk. Good luck with your sale!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405027-selling-my-m35/#findComment-6453516
Share on other sites

Looks like it's sold anyway, I just checked the link.

Here's the updated carsales ad:

http://www.carsales....d=bly89n|CarAll

Haha, the car had the blanking plates when I bought it but one popped out heading southbound on the Harbour Bridge...... I wasn't jumping out to get it. I just took the other one out when I got home.

Still for sale, just under a new ad. Not sure how to edit the original post to replace the link.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405027-selling-my-m35/#findComment-6457513
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is lower price now given apparently nobody wants these or needs them. It's 550 but if someone sees it on SAU and wants to make an offer, please do so.
    • LS is a good motor, but it hurts my soul when I see it in a RB. Guess it fixes the oiling issues lol.
    • I'm confused. Does this qualify as "Gregging" or are you somehow avoiding the Gregging?
    • More assembly going on, with all sorts of "bolt right on bro" scenarios going on here. Smartly, PTV clearance was checked. And I say smartly because it turns out that the intake was 0.009" from piston meeting valve. This is 0.23mm. This is very not okay. A fast meeting was facilitated between engine builder in Australia and engine builder in the USA which was actually incredibly helpful and constructive actually, various ideas thrown around to get around this issue including: 1) Retard the cam timing which would have brought the exhaust valve closer to meeting piston (it was 0.065") which was uncomfortably close to begin with, and change the cam profile making it 'laggier' 2) Much larger head gaskets which would reduce compression, but half the point of this was to increase compression. 3) New set of pistons ($$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$) 4) All of the above 5) Get ghetto The concept is you get sticky sandpaper and stick it back to a valve, slightly larger than the valve you/I'm using, like say from a LS3/rectangle port head. You now have a very super advanced flycutting tool to modify your pistons in your block. Then you install it in your head, and attach the other end of the head to a drill. Then you just replicate your valve smashing into a piston with your spinning drill.   This is the result. Repeat many times. It is strongly recommended you have some kind of fixed stop when doing this for extremely obvious reasons because if you press too hard then you're well into apocalyptic repercussion land. The minimum clearance on the intake valve is now 0.075" this is still in the "Too close to be really comfortable" and into "It should be fine" land. Supposedly in the real world the clearances will be slightly bigger. Guess this is what happens when people push envelopes for N/A engines instead of adding boost! Time to move onto the new, upgraded, higher ratio roller rockers from Yellaterra, all tapped and threaded with a stronger bolt for better stability. Very nice. Lets see how they fit. For f**ks sake. Time to bring the grinder out for these aftermarket, machined and CNC'd heads. Looks like the new, beefier rocker from YellaTerra has gone from Bolt on part to "Bolt on part". Well, lets see how this bolt on crank scraper and windage tray goes then, shall we? There actually is more clearance than they specify for this thing, but seeing it all move as you check it is terrifying when you see it all so very very very very nearly hit things. But after all, this is what the item is designed to do after all and actually did bolt on perfectly and have enough clearance to everything and some very clear and direct instructions. So +1 to Improved Racing I suppose. As above with the windage tray on. Photo of breaker bar wonkiness for added lols. Next up: Oil pump/front cover/water pump/sump and then it's time to actually install the heads, pushrods, head bolts, valve cover gaskets and such is all there and ready to go. (except the oil pump bolts which were previously longer for more clearance with the previously perfectly installed double row timing chain). There's definitely a sense that someone other than us has been here before and done everything perfectly, or at least considered it and came up with working solutions. Perhaps the previous cam was 6deg advanced to avoid PTV issues with the milled stock heads? In any case when I attempt to sell this stuff the buyers are going to be very directly informed.
    • my catch can is pretty easy to empty but it overflows due to the blowby/crank case pressure etc. max I have drained is ~600ml even with a ~2.3L capacity. So it is not just about having to drain it out its the mess it makes down the firewall and under the car and rear passenger tyre from the overflow oil being blasted by screamer + air in general. Ending up on the ground cleaning the oil up and having oil on your arms when everyone else can chill and watch the other sessions gets old fast
×
×
  • Create New...