Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can you use a std inlet plenum/manifold on an RB25/30?

If so what is the defining limits for height and power?

Who is using one and are you happy with it?

I did try a search, but you've no idea how many times a inlet/plenum/manifold comes up in threads. Just about did my head in openning threads that had nothing to do with what I was looking for!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405250-std-manifold/
Share on other sites

No hard and fast rules but the stocker is considered fine for up to about 300kw. More is possible but you start to get some worthwhile gains with a 6 boost type manifold from about 280kw on.

Sorry - getting tired - was referring to exhaust manifold - my mistake!
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405250-std-manifold/#findComment-6453363
Share on other sites

Thinking of my gts25t r33 - thing is I have a Blitz LM IC and am happy with it. But they have inlet and exit on the same [passenger] side. So I was thinking of retaining it and the same piping etc and using the std inlet. Plus, I have WMI [no E85 here] and was wanting to keep it and the std plenum is better for this as well [forward facing ones feed the cylinders differently for WMI, and probably not as good for it]. Thinking around the 350-400rwkw level, start out with a bit less to start with because I'd also keep my 3076 but get a 1.06 in place of the .82. So I'm thinking [cheap but neat] pretty much keep everything for now and just extend my exhaust/dump by 20-30mm if needed. And before anyone asks, already got a tough clutch and diff etc, Gearbox is std, but I'll do it if and when it needs it.

Its a streeter/tourer - so not looking for dyno queen numbers.

And the bonnet problem, I'll look at that as I get to it, a bit of cut and shunt maybe, but I'll see.

Thing is, I think I'll up for a rebiuld anyway and I already have an RB30 and a spare RB25 head. Just got to start buying a few other bits and peices. Might get pistons this week [might have to sell a bike? to help fiinance it, but I'll see].

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405250-std-manifold/#findComment-6454312
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The brakes are all stock bar some DBA slotted discs and the EBC pads and braided lines. The car has brake ducts as standard but they're kinda pointed in the general direction of the brakes rather than really getting at the heat source. I guess I should hit it with an infra red thermometer after a session and see what they're at.  100%! Its just a curiosity more than anything. As I said, high temp brake fluid was such a track day rage back in the day. From people I speak to at the track and threads on here everybody has their own take on it but I'm not gonna scoff at spending a few more bucks. 
    • I've always approached this as, price is comparable between low temp and high temp fluid. Just put in the high temp fluid. I've not going to lose any sleep thinking about could I have saved $20 on brake fluid that is going to live in the car over the next 2 to 3 years. 
    • Nah, the creases were pretty large, and the sheet metal is pretty thin and hard to work out, time alone is in the hours to fix, and would probably have more bog than I would be happy with In other, more happy news, I gave MX5 Mania a call and they have a few clean boots available for $400 a peice, I've contacted Fineline and given them their contact details, I'm a idiot for not thinking of them sooner
    • That really depends on how hot the brakes get and how much of any heat is transferred into the fluid. That really makes it at least a vehicle specific question, and more than like a specific vehicle specific question, depending on what brakes (ie stock, bigger rotors, different calipers) or even what pads are on it. And then there's the question of cooling air. Is there plenty stock? Is there no special cooling arrangements stock? Has some/more been added? In other words, I think you have to do the experiment to obtain the data. And if you;re worried - tie on some ducting?
    • In all the track days I've done over the past few months I've only had 1 issue with braking and thats with my current EBC pads (can't remember the colour, but they're not a track pad). I don't *think* I have had issues with brake fluid getting too hot, my understanding is that when that happens you will have quite noticeable brake loss - which I haven't had.  I'm using just regular ol' Penrite Super DOT4 fluid. I use this fluid in everything and my cars always seem to stop so I see no reason to change, except ... for the 335i. I need to do a fluid flush and was thinking about my fluid of choice and wondering if I should consider using something more high temp? Its not a super fast car by any standards but I'd hate to do a flush and then find myself with no brakes when I get. to Wakefield.  I guess, my question can be summed up as "How fast do you need to be driving to need higher temp brake fluid?"  I remember high temp fluid was considered a must have back in the day when I had my GTR. 
×
×
  • Create New...