Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey just need a bit of help wiring up a turbo timer. It's pre wired for an r33 but I've got an R34 do I'm just gonna cut the plugs off and splice them into my wires. Just wondering if anyone can tell me what the wires need to be hooked up to?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405292-arb-turbo-timer-wiring/
Share on other sites

Think its been covered 400 times Disconnect it

Turbo timer is instant ADR defect

Turbo timer is ghey sit in car for 30 seconds and drive it easy before shutoff !! Everyone has time unless your Butt mud is oozing from the brown starfish

Sputterbutt is a bad thing , only exception to a timer lol

Turbo timers are from the days of poor oil / dirty oil and no quality turbos with cooling

Causing premature failures from oil cooking on spindle of the turbo ( or engine bearings )

Well the other slightly unorthodox reason I like turbo timers is that I live in a place that quite often has temps around -5 degrees when I've gotta leave for work, in my old skyline I used to start my car, set the timer for 5 minutes then go and get ready for work just to give my poor car a little pre warm up.

I'm going to one up ya sorry

Where I used to live it was -19c evernight in the winter air temp and -9 during the day , windchill way colder , and 45c in the summer , and 2 km above sealevel at the lowest point , it used to be the old school idea start the car let it sit till its thawed out , it was found its harder on it that way , your better off idle it for 30 seconds or so then drive very conservative and slow speed not leap on highway for the first few k's to let the temps in all the parts come up not just the engine but the drivetrain , it works ,plus you can tell right away if the car is frozen to the ground quicker haha ,

And on hot days on my old car it wouldnt start if you didnt let it idle for 30 seconds before shutoff

The high altitude would boil the fuel in the carb and the engine would vapour lock

And same on fuel injection cars it would boil in the rail and pressurize the lines , you had to open the fuel cap to start it , it would go whoooosh when it did open , made dramaticly worse with Ethanol blend fuels !!!!

So just sell it off mate

Go on hate me haha

Carbon 34, I only do it to De-ice the windscreen really, my 34 seems to be very damp and i get bad condensation. Probably got something to do with it always raining here and i get i've got damp seats and carpet.... Where the Hell were you living for it to be that cold anyway? Ballarats bad enough.

Colorado rocky mountains , denver a mile high 5,280 ft

drives can go over 14,000 ft

it can get so cold mineral oil has to be spooned out of a bottle , but synthetic is fine , that is the quickest selling point to buy it ever lol

Magnetic oil heaters in the oil pan, plug in coolant warmers , cardboard over the radiator so the car can warm up on the highway and and summer is outback hot only cools off at night most of the time , i have photos of my old datto in the drive you cant see it the snow is that deep in the city , the engine compartment solid snow but she started still haha , drifts over rooftops !! Dont miss that haha

Carbon 34, I only do it to De-ice the windscreen really, my 34 seems to be very damp and i get bad condensation. Probably got something to do with it always raining here and i get i've got damp seats and carpet.... Where the Hell were you living for it to be that cold anyway? Ballarats bad enough.

Depending on the year of car they have superdefrost mode , quickway to defog turn on recirculate and airconditioner it dries the air quicksmart or hit the defrost mode on the bottom left , never use mine its crazy mode lol

If your car seems moist maybe your heater core is leaking ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...