Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys, im thinking about buys some of these along with some other bits from auto-style. these are on the USA site, but they also have a japanese website which is where im trying to get the bits from, USA shipping is insanly priced.

anyway

they are made by auto-stlye, designed by Takeros japan.

$391 USD + postage. im not to sure as yet if these are sold in pairs or that is per side, but i have inquired and waiting to hear back from them. Ill try to get some bulk pricing and shipping quotes off them this week.

this is purely just to see if there is interest for these items.

my only other suggestion is that i will buy some(which i will do no matter what) and i will lend them to someone to make moulds of them before i put them on the car, this way we can have them made here in aus without the massive pricetag.

cheers. let me know either way, and message me if you know of someone or want to make moulds from them, but it will need to be professionally done, im not going to give them to a backyarder to make moulds from because if you break it you bought it. ;)

cheers.

i should have thrown this up before. these are the panels.

http://usa.auto-style.jp/?pkey=item_info&i_code=TAK241118K0001&maker_url=takeros

:D

ive contacted them directly, also contacted takeros japan, and an importer who can buy them in japan and have them sent, so ill see how i go price wise and let you all know.

I suggest you PM Rb26stagea (Micah) and ask him were the set he bought from Japan the Takero's ones....

If they are the same ones he bought, they were crap and unusable

I then organised a group buy and had Micah's ones reworked and moulded in Sydney.........they ended up crap as well at great expense

I suggest you PM Rb26stagea (Micah) and ask him were the set he bought from Japan the Takero's ones....

If they are the same ones he bought, they were crap and unusable

I then organised a group buy and had Micah's ones reworked and moulded in Sydney.........they ended up crap as well at great expense

QFT!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you put an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on and verified your oil pressure?   Noise being on the block, on exhaust side, how high up the block does it seem to be? It could be the VCT system getting cranky, especially if it's mainly at idle, and when warm, as that'll be your lowest point for oil pressure. Could be showing that oil passages / VCT solenoid are blocking.
    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
×
×
  • Create New...