Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys, im thinking about buys some of these along with some other bits from auto-style. these are on the USA site, but they also have a japanese website which is where im trying to get the bits from, USA shipping is insanly priced.

anyway

they are made by auto-stlye, designed by Takeros japan.

$391 USD + postage. im not to sure as yet if these are sold in pairs or that is per side, but i have inquired and waiting to hear back from them. Ill try to get some bulk pricing and shipping quotes off them this week.

this is purely just to see if there is interest for these items.

my only other suggestion is that i will buy some(which i will do no matter what) and i will lend them to someone to make moulds of them before i put them on the car, this way we can have them made here in aus without the massive pricetag.

cheers. let me know either way, and message me if you know of someone or want to make moulds from them, but it will need to be professionally done, im not going to give them to a backyarder to make moulds from because if you break it you bought it. ;)

cheers.

i should have thrown this up before. these are the panels.

http://usa.auto-style.jp/?pkey=item_info&i_code=TAK241118K0001&maker_url=takeros

:D

ive contacted them directly, also contacted takeros japan, and an importer who can buy them in japan and have them sent, so ill see how i go price wise and let you all know.

I suggest you PM Rb26stagea (Micah) and ask him were the set he bought from Japan the Takero's ones....

If they are the same ones he bought, they were crap and unusable

I then organised a group buy and had Micah's ones reworked and moulded in Sydney.........they ended up crap as well at great expense

I suggest you PM Rb26stagea (Micah) and ask him were the set he bought from Japan the Takero's ones....

If they are the same ones he bought, they were crap and unusable

I then organised a group buy and had Micah's ones reworked and moulded in Sydney.........they ended up crap as well at great expense

QFT!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The max they would go for me is 50.
    • That cannot have been a fun set of drilling. The stock "baffle" looks identical to rb26, I just cut fuel cell foam to fit the full length under the baffle.
    • I understand your sarcastic exasperation. But to be fair - the baffles do indeed fit OEM cam covers. They did omit to say that you need to do a bunch of stuff. But they do fit them.
    • Got started on the modification to make these splash plates fit over the long weekend. First the surprisingly time consuming task of swapping all the cam cap bolts to Tomei cam cap studs. I did the method of removing one bolt at a time, applying loctite to the stud, double nutting to torque as the manual described. Then carefully unlocking the nuts without disrupting the torque of the stud (and going back to re-torque a few times when it slipped). Finally applying the nut and torquing to spec. Repeat x28 Next up I went about removing the stock cam cover baffle so I could ensure it was fully clean after drilling for stud clearance.  As the blind rivets holding the baffle on were domed I used a punch to mark the center then used 4mm drill bit to carefully drill out the rivet without going too far part the baffle. As seen in other thread here is what is inside the stock baffles I decided on M4x6mm bolts to bolt the baffle plate back on with. I used a 3.3mm drill bit with some tape to mark the depth at ~8mm. Next was to tap the threads using a cheap bunnings kit M4x0.7. With the baffle removed I also drilled out the spot welds holding in the baffle plate oil returns. Unsure whether this was the best option or if I should have cut holes in the Hypertune splash plates to allow the oil drains to still function... time will tell. I then removed the the Hypertune splash plates so I could rest the cam cover on top and use a dab of grease to mark where the studs impacted the oem cam cover baffle. The most obvious spot was on the hump from the stock mesh is held. Using this hole as an anchor I bolted the oem baffle plate back into the cam cover and lined up the Hypertune splash plate. Marked the rest of the holes for the studs and drill those out too. Total 32 holes drilled and 12 threads tapped on the passenger side cam cover alone for this bolt on part that totally clears all OEM cam covers.. Drivers side next as well as some E85 safe fuel foam to fill the space behind the behind cam cover baffle plates. oh and some lock nuts for the splash plates of course.
×
×
  • Create New...