Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Howdy all, I'm considering selling my car as I am moving back to Sydney and won't have a garage or anywhere decent to keep it. This is a pretty devastating thing for me to do and I may pull out, so it is somewhat of an EOI.

This car is as immaculate as a factory paint car gets of a car this age, let alone a drift car. i bought it off a guy who has built many cover cars in his day with the build quality of this being any less Superior then any of his other creations.

This has $60k spent on it with ~$30k in receipts with most parts being less than 9,500kms old. The shell is bullshit, perfectly straight chassis rails the whole way through, uncrashed, unrepaired goodness. It has always been garaged and in 7 years of having the motor in, has done only 9500kms. I have done two tracks days up in Proserpine (one of which was spent fcking with my old handbrake) and one in Syd. The car has been meticulously maintained and I can honestly say that I have only hit limiter in it once or twice (due to fear of previous limiter bashing damage in one of my old SR20s). Anyway enough shit talking....

ENGINE:

R33 RB26DETT with 28,000 genuine km's on it.

Modified and Baffled GTR sump

N1 thermostat

N1 water pump

New Nissan timing belt

Custom performance metal craft 600x300x100 intercooler and plumbing

Oil cooler + remote filter relocator

Custom alloy radiator with remote filler tank

Trust type S BOV with alloy plumb back

Twin HKS filters

Twin custom ceramic coated dump pipes

Twin custom front pipes

3 inch stainless exhaust with stainless muffler and single angled 3” straight pipe outlet (super quiet for street creeping)

Battery relocated in boot

DRIVELINE:

r33 gtst 5 speed gearbox

Quick shift kit

Single piece tailshaft

Brass button clutch

GTR cradle with rebuilt GTR 2way

Rebuilt drive shafts

GTR brakes with vented/slotted rotors - front and rear (Rear uses drum handbrake also)

Brand new Project Mu ‘drift’ rear drum shoes

SUSPENSION:

Rear

New Drift project adjustable toe rods

New Drift project adjustable traction rods

JJR adjustable camber arms

Fresh noltech urethane bushes thoughout whole rear end, including subframe

D2 coilovers with 6kg/mm spring

Front

SMM (Simon Michellemore) knuckle and bolt in spacer setup (easily the best knuckle setup I've used)

New Ikeya Formula extended and strengthened tie rods

New Nissan tie rod ends

New rose jointed Castor rods

EXTERIOR:

Nismo Navan genuine plastic, front bar, side skirts and pods

Carbon fibre bonnet

JJR clear indicators and parkers

Boot holes deleted

HID lights

SSR 16” meshies

Front: 9” wide +18 offset with +20mm bolt on spacers

Rear: 9.5 wide with +18 offset

Rolled gaurds

Alloy wheel nuts

INTERIOR:

Pair of Recaro SR3 on recaro rails

Defi style gauge trio }

Eboost 2 }

Switches } All in carbon fibre panel

AF gauge setup }

Sony CD player moved to glove box to allow space for gauges and carbon panel

Razo carbon fibre gear knob, momo boot

Nardi wheel + horn

D2 detachable steering boss

HKB boss kit with resistor

Some White instruments with blue lights

Nissan floor mats

Alarm, immobiliser

New carpet

Car is fully and legitimately engineered in NSW (however it is a bit lower then legal)

IMG_0300.jpg

IMG_0284.jpg

IMG_0297.jpg

IMG_0295.jpg

522873_308330985912001_1925353046_n.jpg

375719_394835367201045_1580954680_n.jpg

576763_3547878529424_1935635479_n.jpg

Will try get some better pics up soon.

I’m sure there is a bunch of stuff I’ve left off and will update it as I remember.

Located in Mackay, but will be relocating it to wollongong in a few week.

Price: 20k

Cheers all,

Tye.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405312-s14-rb26-immaculate-has-everything/
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 7 years later...

Massive long shot however I’m trying to get into contact with previous owners, I currently own this car and the owner of the nissan dealership in my town owned for seven years before me, any info would be excellent ultimately my end goal is to find the person who built it. Thanks in advance 

  • 2 weeks later...
On 2/1/2020 at 9:59 AM, Wassell_97 said:

Massive long shot however I’m trying to get into contact with previous owners, I currently own this car and the owner of the nissan dealership in my town owned for seven years before me, any info would be excellent ultimately my end goal is to find the person who built it. Thanks in advance 

PM sent man. Try contacting Tyrone Hunt on Facebook? :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It makes you wonder, all these people starting to make a billet replacement head, I wonder if any have thought about trying to adapt tech from newer engines into them. You're already at the full design stage to make a billet head... Why not really spice it up and had some more modern tech into the mix too...
    • Connect all the plumbing up properly. The actual worst part about having the turbo unable to actually build boost, is you can and likely would over soon the turbo if you drove the car (free rev while stationary isnt likely to manage it).   If you do have an air leak as Duncan suggested, you'll have a bad time as the AFM will be saying different to reality.   As you have had the engine out, I'd go over all electrical connections again. If you have a consult cable, plug it in, and see what the ECU thinks is going on. Did you touch the timing belt? If so, double check your timing on the gears is correct AND put a timing light on it while it's idling and see what ignition setting you have. Is the AFM you've installed the one that was in the car previously? You said you replaced seals, what seals exactly? What have you had apart?   From memory when I had my RB25DET with factory throttle, there was two plugs the TPS plug on the loom could go to. One would leave the car running like shit, the other made it work, I think one plug on the TPS area was for something else (an option). It's too many years since I saw that part of the loom to remember properly though.   Is the car idling smooth (as smooth as an RB can)? Does it smell fuelled up?   I have a feeling either timing in timing belt is off, or a sensor isn't right.
    • Theres still skid pan and motokhana days up in QLD at least that are $100 or less. The ones that are ran as "driver training" less so, they're expensive, but just normal skid pan days like SAU ran are still low cost. And thats one of the places I learned to be a lariken, purely by asking for passenger rides, and how people were doing crazy things. Reese gave me plenty of pointers back in the day for skid pan! And yes Duncan, I will never forget your pointers for track work. Especially after Neil got out saying "I am NEVER getting in the car with him again!" 😛
    • 49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
    • Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
×
×
  • Create New...