Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I'm a noob when it comes to car audio. So keep it simple please.

Pioneer 7950UB head unit + clarion 4 ch amp + 4 coax speakers (2 x front and 2 x rear).

I get alternator whine through my (mainly) rear speakers, audible when HU volume is low.

I can remove it entirely by turning down the gain on my amp to about 1/3 on F+R.

But setting the gain higher than that will bring it back on, and the higher the gain, the louder the whine.

That's all nice and good, but having my gain so low means HU volume needs to be up to almost max (45) for it to be decently loud.

Is this normal? Will increasing amp gain increase volume output through my speakers? ie require less volume at the head unit for same volume at speakers?

Or is this what I should expect of any amp?

And, is the whine a by-product of the higher gain settings, or am I just masking the actual problem? Possibly RCA noise, ground loops, etc?

I assumed you could turn the gain up till pretty much your speakers became unhappy. but since I know fk all about amps, I'm not sure it's the case.

For some background.

Amp is in the boot with the battery. Earthed directly to battery ground point (R33).

I have tried a couple of different earth cables. One thick muthrfker too.

I have removed the head unit more times than i care to remember. I have grounded the rca earths to the head unit chassis directly.

I have run the head unit ground wire to one of the bolts that holds the gear shift in place. I assume this is a decent earth?

I tried several other spots too with no change.

I also opened the head unit and soldered over the pico fuse which i'm sure was blown since i was getting excessive noise initially.

I swapped out the head unit for another one i had, and got the same whine.

My rca's and front speaker cables and remote wire run through the centre console, under the rear seat cushions, and into the boot.

thanks to anyone who can be bothered to read all that :)

Your positive its alternator whine? , not fan or other induced noise?

Alternator whine speeds up as you rev the car ?

Run a cheap pair of rca outside the car to the amp ? even 2 dollar cheapies for test

Amp should be grounded to car not battery

Radio grounded to shifter bolts not a good ground , paint and grime tar , grounding the rca normally makes it worse , you need to break the ground loop not enhance it with yet another path

clean terminals on battery ? batttery at full charge ? alternator ripple can be tested for a/c leakage if its on the way out ?

A cap can filter a/c ripple from charging

Can you run another source ? Ipod or ? Instead of deck ?

Gain on the amp shouldnt exceed 3/4 in most cases , you can set the gains with tester or meter

if you need more gain buy a overdrive from audiocontrol or similar 13v preout with clip meter ? Or new headunit with 4-6v preouts

Prob the best source ever for engine noise And chasing it down

Lots of goodies this guy is one of the original gurus of car audio

And if you read this he is the original co guru lol

http://www.termpro.com/asp/pubs.asp?ID=121

http://www.davidnavone.com/heresHow/august2003.htm

Thanks for the reply.

So basically, i should be able to turn the gain up if all was good, and the only thing i would experience is too much distortion/volume to the speakers, but not whine?

And ideally i should not have to turn the radio volume all the way to 45 to get some decent volume? although this is about the limit of what my speakers can handle by the sounds of it.

Yeah I found that guide already. very informative.

basically i've tried everything besides re-routing the rca's. but i will be doing that next, and also trying a different amp.

I should prob try the external source like an ipod too. that would rule out the amp and speaker wiring.

- yes it's alternator whine. It increases pitch with revs.

- amp is grounded to the car at the same point the battery is grounded to the car. Is this not good?

- battery terminals are clean. battery is charged and fine.

- I have tried 3 or 4 different radio ground points, including an open bolt hole with clean metal under my console, and the frame/chassis behind the dash.

- the rca's entering the radio are grounded to the radio's chassis directly (not to an external ground), to ensure they have a good ground internally. It was recommended in that guide i think.

It might be a bad rca easy fix?

You can get a groundloop isolator but thats a bandaid and if your alternator is stuffed it wont fix it, you can do a cap across the radio power to ground ( think jaycar sells a kit) or make your own

If your radio is culprit

Grounding the rca rarely fixes the problem unless the rca ground is bad inside the jacket it creates another ground plane/ path

is the amp close to battery power cable ? Maybe too close ?

Amp ground should be fine i thought it was direct to neg terminal not same bolt , you could move it it can pick up noise in some of the weirdest places

This is why installers hate used equipment on installs haha you can spend days chasing your tail

Even power antennas can cause it if the radio ground is better thru the antenna them ground wire

Floats ground thru antenna , or ground thru dash lights a common mistake

Edited by Carbon 34

Turns out it was the RCA's. I pulled my rear seat out and covered the rca's with conduit, and taped it all up, and used a more 'spacious' route to run them under the seat.

Noise is now gone at all gain levels, and i'm a happy camper! :)

Thanks for your help carbon.

Edited by Munkyb0y

Turns out it was the RCA's. I pulled my rear seat out and covered the rca's with conduit, and taped it all up, and used a more 'spacious' route to run them under the seat.

Noise is now gone at all gain levels, and i'm a happy camper! :)

Thanks for your help carbon.

Good to here it wasnt a huge drama and cost

Your very welcome

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It's sodium citrate, I misspoke earlier. It's a citrate buffer solution. And yes, depending on how thin the metal in the tank is this may or may not be a wise decision but if it's just mild rust it should clean off and it should be fine. 
    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
×
×
  • Create New...