Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys, im having issues with my cheap an nasty tyres haha. my car has a fair bit of low, and quite a bit of camber, and ive busted the internal sidewall on my front left. seeing as though the car is going into for more power, i figured its time to throw on a decent set of tyres.

my current ones are load rated @ 91Y which im guessing is to low for the stageas weight.

the tyres im looking at are 93W (extra load rated) made by bridgestone but under another name?? and just general road tyres, also have a nice heavy sidewall, will these be ok with the weight of the stag, im also raising the car back up because its a bit ridiculously low and the camber wear is crazy lol.

cheers.

Edited by OMY31T
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405362-c34-s2-tyre-load-rating/
Share on other sites

93w will be fine. My car came from japan with bfg tyres that were rated 93y, now have federals rated 93W .

The numbers are the load rating and the letter is speed rating, w being 270kph & 93 being 650kg per tyre

my car has a fair bit of low, and quite a bit of camber, and ive busted the internal sidewall on my front left. seeing as though the car is going into for more power, i figured its time to throw on a decent set of tyres.

i figure you should probably invest in a camber kit and a wheel alignment first - wind it right out then raise the car untill the camber is realistic

yeah i though 93w would be ok, the other i think are rated at only 420kg which is probably a bit under. the camber is not to bad really, ive had much more camber on other cars without an issue, but the stagea is obviously quite alot heavier. what camber arms fit into the c34??\

cheers.

How much camber do you have? You might get there with just the eccentric bushes. I have R33 Cusco camber arms at the front and some no -name ones (R33) at the rear. Cheap and nasty tyres are never a good idea on any car at any time.

yeah i would buy cusco if anything, theres a set up for grabs atm on ebay for $300... i might try to get a shot of the camber... i dont thinl its alot, i had alot more on my HR31 Passage GT and never had an issue... apart from going through tyres like a bitch haha.

my local bridgestone tyre center has a set of Federal 595's in a 245/40/19 that were a trade in... 85% tread even wear for $100 a tyre... worth it?.. the only downside is 40 profile in a 245 puts me 6.52% larger in diameter. im not worried about the speedo so much, its more the effect on braking.

Edited by OMY31T

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The max they would go for me is 50.
    • That cannot have been a fun set of drilling. The stock "baffle" looks identical to rb26, I just cut fuel cell foam to fit the full length under the baffle.
    • I understand your sarcastic exasperation. But to be fair - the baffles do indeed fit OEM cam covers. They did omit to say that you need to do a bunch of stuff. But they do fit them.
    • Got started on the modification to make these splash plates fit over the long weekend. First the surprisingly time consuming task of swapping all the cam cap bolts to Tomei cam cap studs. I did the method of removing one bolt at a time, applying loctite to the stud, double nutting to torque as the manual described. Then carefully unlocking the nuts without disrupting the torque of the stud (and going back to re-torque a few times when it slipped). Finally applying the nut and torquing to spec. Repeat x28 Next up I went about removing the stock cam cover baffle so I could ensure it was fully clean after drilling for stud clearance.  As the blind rivets holding the baffle on were domed I used a punch to mark the center then used 4mm drill bit to carefully drill out the rivet without going too far part the baffle. As seen in other thread here is what is inside the stock baffles I decided on M4x6mm bolts to bolt the baffle plate back on with. I used a 3.3mm drill bit with some tape to mark the depth at ~8mm. Next was to tap the threads using a cheap bunnings kit M4x0.7. With the baffle removed I also drilled out the spot welds holding in the baffle plate oil returns. Unsure whether this was the best option or if I should have cut holes in the Hypertune splash plates to allow the oil drains to still function... time will tell. I then removed the the Hypertune splash plates so I could rest the cam cover on top and use a dab of grease to mark where the studs impacted the oem cam cover baffle. The most obvious spot was on the hump from the stock mesh is held. Using this hole as an anchor I bolted the oem baffle plate back into the cam cover and lined up the Hypertune splash plate. Marked the rest of the holes for the studs and drill those out too. Total 32 holes drilled and 12 threads tapped on the passenger side cam cover alone for this bolt on part that totally clears all OEM cam covers.. Drivers side next as well as some E85 safe fuel foam to fill the space behind the behind cam cover baffle plates. oh and some lock nuts for the splash plates of course.
×
×
  • Create New...