Jump to content
SAU Community

Sau Vic 2012 Motorsport Championship Round 5 - Sandown 11Th August


emts
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 307
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Did you pop your box at PI ? :(

Yeh, shame its on the same weekend as WTAC, and also my excuse is the same as every other Sandown the pat 6 months...I still dont have a super dooper exhaust to pass the nose restriction

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I might try my first track day.

Martin you be free to teach someone to drive lol?

I'm thinking of doing driver training then I'm guessing I can drive free by myself later with everyone else?

How much track time would one get if I did Driver training and then possible go out bymyself later?

I'll read into the stuff tonight of what I need to do to get my car ready in time and all the cams stuff

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, generally speaking. First session in DT is with a instructor. Then after that you are free without one.

You get the same amount of track time as anyone else. Which at this event will be a load, as a heap of us will be in Sydney.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes might join in me thinks...why the feck not..

Roy get Scotty fix u up an exhaust man, his prices are very competitive and his hours are very flexible :P

I give him a scrapheap challenge with parts from Fujitsibo,volkswagon and HKS and he made me up a nice quiet pipe..well it passed.at PI anyway...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Seeing as its my very first time at the track. Are these the only things I need to do to get ready & be accepted at Sandown?

Anything else I need to do?

Personal Requirements

- Safety helmet (AS1698 standard) in good condition (ie. free of dents and scratches).

- Gloves are optional.

- Leather or suede footwear must completely cover the foot and be firmly fitted. No sandals or thongs allowed.

- Driver apparel must cover the body from ankle to neck including up to the wrists. Long sleeved and flame-resistant clothing is mandatory. Wool is best but cotton overalls or trousers and shirts are also suitable. Race-type overalls are not necessary.

Vehicle Requirements

- Fire Extinguisher (AS1841, AS1846 or AS1848, Minimum of 900grams) Securely fastened with a metal bracket and reachable by the driver from the drivers seat.

- Valve Caps (Preferably metal)

- Boot / Cockpit - Must be free from all loose articles

- Bonnet Catches - All rear-hinged bonnets must have an additional independent non-flexible strap fitted. Permanent straps/pins attached to the bonnet are not necessary. It is acceptable to tie the bonnet down with light rope. Bonnet Pins are also accepted.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lol, scrap heap zorst was crap Artz, come down for a nice shiny one, what about alloy for the rear Roy? ;)

See you there.

Cheers for the offer. I have one designed up its just a matter of finding the time to get the car off the ground one weekend, check dimensions and then order the parts. Odds are it will be a disaster but I want to give it a go myself first....if its a bag full of failure then will come knocking.

My problem has been I have tried two different front pipe arrangements and they each cost power. Noise would past fine, but I dont want to hand back response and 15-20rwkws :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Seeing as its my very first time at the track. Are these the only things I need to do to get ready & be accepted at Sandown?

Anything else I need to do?

Fire ext that is bolted in. I'd use the passenger front seat mounts.

Single bolt hole or tekscrew will not pass.

The fire ext only lasts 3 years from the date stamped on it.

There is a thread is the MS section about mounts.

Blue battery tri-angle. Blue contact from newsagent :) cut it. 15x15x15 cm

Helmet with aus standard sticker.

CAMS L2S.

Pants, shoes and a long sleve or jumper.

That is all you need.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers John

Where would I got about purchasing a fire extinguisher & mounting brackets for the car? Also what would be the approximate cost?

:cheers:

Autobarn for ext. $35

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/376435-cams-approved-fire-extinguisher-bracket/page__pid__6436271__st__20#entry6436271

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lol, scrap heap zorst was crap Artz, come down for a nice shiny one, what about alloy for the rear Roy? ;)

See you there.

be nice, half my car is held together with your welds so the exhaust is awesome man, its 1 of a kind and it works....

Plus i like the way it sounds :D

Cheers John

Where would I got about purchasing a fire extinguisher & mounting brackets for the car? Also what would be the approximate cost?

:cheers:

fire extinguishers are on sale at repco for 19$

for a bracket just get a straight peice of 1 inch wide aluminium..drill a hole in each end put a little bend in one end and use your seat bolts to hold it in...I did find the stock seat bolts were a tad short though and barely gripped so might be best to get some longer bolts as well..but I put mine in and with cutting a little piece of plastic seat trim I still have full movement on my seat :thumbsup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

DSC04379.jpg

made from a piece of aluminium I found in the scrap bin at a truck place.. :)

took 20 mins to make and its like 6mm thick too, so not going anywhere but meant I needed longer bolts...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There is a LOT of stuff that can be done, it all depends on how much time and money you want to spend on doing in.  Not all ECUs will be able to do it, and the more control you need the more time and knowledge needs to be put into making it work.  If you're willing to spend the time and money and have the right hardware and skills involved there's a lot that can be done. 
    • I am impressed with all this level of adjustment. I didn't expect all this possibility
    • Correct.  In the case of the 500kw dyno plot I showed you the car actually runs two boost control solenoids for boost control and a 5psi wastegate spring.  It allows me to control how much boost pressure is applied to both sides of the wastegate valve at any point and fairly accurately control boost target as a result. I've tuned it so that it's able to target anywhere from 5psi to 25psi depending on what's needed.  The target tables I've set up in that car are Gear vs RPM, so every gear has potential for a different boost (and torque) curve.   First and second gear have quite low boost targets, third gear actually has different target boost all the way through the rpm range as it's a stock RB25 gearbox - the boost targets have been chosen to maintain a peak of 600nm (what the owner has set as the maximum torque he's happy with putting through the stock 3rd gear) but it carries that to the rev limiter.   The boost curve to achieve that is something of a ramp up, then hold, then ramp up again and the power curve looks more like a flat line haha.  
    • so you can decrease or increase the boost depending on the diet as you wish?     by acting on the wastegate?
    • That's torque and power, it's all from a single run.  The boost curve is "held back" from it's peak target in the 3500rpm to 5000rpm range from memory, so it ramps hard to something like 18psi then climbs more progressively to 23psi nearer 5000rpm.   It makes the torque (and power) ramp more "natural" and less hard on parts and traction, it doesn't feel artificially held back.   
×
×
  • Create New...