Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah I had a look through about 15 pages of the thread but didn't see one running 19" rims which is why i posted on here. Does anyone know anyone running 19's on a r32??? There was a lot good info on there though.

255/35/18

265's would be better but they will scrub if you havent rolled your gaurds

I run 18 x 9.5 and 18 x 9 both + 20 offset with 265/35/18 on my 32r and they rub on the front guard liner on suspension compression. Probably worse when lock is applied too. They only catch the guard by a poofteenth and have worn some material off the moulding around the screws that fixt the liner on. But rub they do. Rears are fine but only just. Camber and ride height wil make a difference to the equation. It must vary from car to car as I've heard too many times that 18 x 10 +20 fit no worries but you can see my experience doesn't line up with this. My advice is at these sizes you are in the 'will just fit / are slightly too large' zone so proceed with caution and trial fit if possible. From a looks perspective (again from my point of view) these rims and tyre specs are the best. In my opinion you should not go past 18s.....

Some food for thought re wheel “fit”

It’s very difficult to generalise whether “Diameter x Width + offset” will “fit” a particular car. Consider this:

  1. Most cars have different geometry settings (e.g. aftermarket arms, bushes etc) which will affect camber, caster, toe etc. a change in camber settings between one car and another may cause a ‘fitting’ wheel to foul
  2. Most cars have different ride heights (running stock/aftermarket/etc coilovers) which will affect geometry and clearance to the guard when turning (front)
  3. Some people are running different brake set ups, with aftermarket mounting alloy bells, that may be different thickness than the original cast iron one piece rotors. So a thicker rotor bell will increase track slightly, which may make a ‘fitting’ wheel on one car foul another
  4. Obviously spacers make a difference
  5. Obviously different size tyres will give different clearances also

There’s probably more stuff I’m not remembering.

For what it’s worth, the simple question of “will these wheels fit my GTST/GTR/etc” really needs an answer of:

  • what are the current geometry settings
  • what brake setup are you running and are the hats thicker/thinner than the oem
  • are you running spacers etc

And lastly, I’m running 18x9.5 + 15s with 255/35/18 Michelin PS2s on my R32 GTR. They are the exact CE28 rims that “DarrenJC” has on his black 32 v-spec above. It has a/m front and rear brakes that I think are a little thicker than OEM (prob 3-4mm) so the effective track is wider. My wheels are definitely sitting further out that his image. My R34GTR wheels sat about where his CE28s sit.

Front end:

a/m front arms with about 2.5deg neg camber and max castor. Now lock is destroying my guard liners so will wind out caster and wing on some more static camber.

Rear end:

a/m arms running about 0.5deg neg camber. When static compressed the tyre has about 3mm clearance to the outer guard (which in not rolled). Will wind on a touch more camber for safety.

Hope that helps.

  • 4 weeks later...

Hey mate,

I own a 32 GTR and recently upgraded to 18X10 +20 TE37s with 265/35/18s all round, they sit perfectly flush with the fender.. there is only about 15mm clearance at the rear... i was at first concerned it may make contact, as sinista32 mentioned

265's would be better but they will scrub if you havent rolled your gaurds

however the tyres have not made contact once due to the stiffness of my coilovers. It hasn't been tracked, however there are some country mountain roads nearish to where i live that i have frequented and put hard strain on the springs with still no contact.

oh and with good quality semi slicks the handling is amazing :)

Try a slow full lock in a car park. That's where mine scrubbed on the front.

Rolled the front and rear gaurds.

Federal RSR's are larger than other tyre manufacturers by about 10%. That's what I had.

My suspension is Bilstein coilovers with Eiback springs.

Can anyone tell me what size i should run for my R32 GTR... I've got BBS RS wheels and im about to rebuild them to a 17x9.5 +14 All round...

I wanted to go 265/40/17 all round but someone said it will look like a baloon and overhang like stupidly.... Idno if thats true i wudda thought it wud be flush as with the rim... but i could be wrong... can anyone help me out with pics and stuff??

RIMTUCK mainly has 18 inch wheels so its a totally diff ball game.

So 18x10 + 20 is no problems on a bnr32??

What tyres are people running 245's or 255's?

I will be running wheels this size and want to bolt on with no modifications.....

255/35/18

265's would be better but they will scrub if you havent rolled your gaurds

265 are fine on that size rim, i have 265 on my 18x10 +20 on my 32 GTR

gtr3_zpsb367405f.jpg

gtr4_zps9985bb4c.jpg

Anyone to help me for 17s ... from what i wrote above.

18s is a diff story.

18s is not a different story... Your comparing widths here. Whizzn gave a photo of how 265s look on a 10 inch rim, use the photos as a guide for your 9.5" rims

This car has 265 on 18x9.5 +18

modp_1103_01_o+1991_nissan_skyline_gt-r+front_view.jpg

^ this is the best fit for an r32 GTR that i have seen and I have myself ^

18 x 9.5 +12 LMGT4's

although I went down to 255's as my RSR 265's (265x35xR18) scrubbed on low speed full lock, inside gaurd liner, and my gaurds were rolled.

-> RSR 265's are wider than other 265's - fact.

I run Bilsteins with Eibach springs. Not set to rock hard but not soft either.

18s is not a different story... Your comparing widths here. Whizzn gave a photo of how 265s look on a 10 inch rim, use the photos as a guide for your 9.5" rims

This car has 265 on 18x9.5 +18

modp_1103_01_o+1991_nissan_skyline_gt-r+front_view.jpg

okay awesome... man honestly thats what i always thought but someone that was running 10.5 all round with a 255 said my 9.5 on a 17inch wheel with 265 will be like a baloon... f**k what he says man the picture u posted is perfect and exactly what i want.

thanks for the help

  • 1 month later...

today i fitted my brand new enkei 18x9.5+12 with new advan 245/45/18, and on the left front wheel it scrapes with the rear of the arch when turning slowely ? am I going to have to get new tyres with a smaller profile??

Edited by geetea-are

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think you're really missing the point. The spec is just the minimum spec that the fuel has to meet. The additive packages can, and do, go above that minimum if the fuel brand feels they need/want to. And so you get BP Ultimate or Shell Ultra (or whatever they call it) making promises to clean your engine better than the standard stuff....simply because they do actually put better additive packages in there. They do not waste special sauce on the plebian fuel if they can avoid it. I didn't say "energy density". I just said "density". That's right, the specific gravity (if you want to use a really shit old imperial description for mass per unit volume). The density being higher indicates a number of things, from reduces oxygen content, to increased numbers of double bonds or cyclic components. That then just happens to flow on to the calorific value on a volume basis being correspondingly higher. The calorific value on a mass basis barely changes, because almost all hydrocarbon materials have a very similar CV per kg. But whatever - the end result is that you do get a bit more energy per litre, which helps to offset some of the sting of the massive price bump over 91. I can go you one better than "I used to work at a fuel station". I had uni lecturers who worked at the Pt Stanvac refinery (at the time they were lecturing, as industry specialist lecturers) who were quite candid about the business. And granted, that was 30+ years ago, and you might note that I have stated above that I think the industry has since collected together near the bottom (quite like ISPs, when you think about it). Oh, did I mention that I am quite literally a combustion engineer? I'm designing (well, actually, trying to avoid designing and trying to make the junior engineer do it) a heavy fuel oil firing system for a cement plant in fricking Iraq, this week. Last week it was natural gas fired this-that. The week before it was LPG fired anode furnaces for a copper smelter (well, the burners for them, not the actual furnaces, which are just big dumb steel). I'm kinda all over fuels.
    • Well my freshly rebuilt RB25DET Neo went bang 1000kms in, completely fried big end bearing in cylinder 1 so bad my engine seized. No knocking or oil pressure issue prior to this happening, all happened within less than a second. Had Nitto oil pump, 8L baffled sump, head drain, oil restrictors, the lot put in to prevent me spinning a bearing like i did to need the rebuild. Mechanic that looked after the works has no idea what caused it. Reckoned it may have been bearing clearance wrong in cylinder 1 we have no idea. Machinist who did the work reckoned it was something on the mechanic. Anyway thats between them, i had no part in it, just paid the money Curiosity question, does the oil system on RB’s go sump > oil pump > filter > around engine? If so, if you had a leak on an oil filter relocation plate, say sump > oil pump > filter > LEAK > around engine would this cause a low oil pressure reading if the sensors was before the filter?   TIA
    • But I think you missed mine.. there is also nothing about the 98 spec that supports your claim..  according to the fuel standards, it can be identical to 95, just very slightly higher octane number. But the ulp vs pulp fuel regulations go show 95 (or 98), is not just 91 with some additives. any claim of ‘refined by the better refineries’ or ‘higher quality fuel’ is just hearsay.  I have never seen anything to back up such claims other than ‘my mate used to work for a fuel station’, or ‘drove a fuel delivery truck’, or ‘my mechanic says’.. the actual energy densities do slightly vary between the 3 grades of fuel, but the difference is very minor. That said, I am very happy to be proven wrong if anyone has some hard evidence..
    • Hey guys I’m chasing a Rb20det complete or bare block need a good running engine as mine has low comp 
    • You're making my point for me. 95 is not "premium". It is a "slightly higher octane" version of the basic 91 product. The premium product that they want people to buy (for all the venal corporate reasons of making more profit, and all the possibly specious reasons of it being a "better" fuel with nicer additive packages) is the 98 octane stuff. 95 is the classic middle child. No-one wants it. No-one cares about it. It is just there, occupying a space in the product hierarchy.
×
×
  • Create New...