Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yes brand names do make a difference... One of the 3 you've mentioned has had many issues far and above what you'd call "normal".

Have a google - you'll soon work out which. Each have it's pro's and cons. Different gear ratio options and so on.

I'd suggest you do some research here on SAU and again, more google. There is more then enough information on this very forum alone to give you plenty to think about.

I notice Par not having a great name, there has to be people out there that actually have a par set and are happy with it.

I don't think PAR like using PAR gearsets

As above, go OS GIKEN

As for differences between straight cut and helical. Straight cut is stronger, but noisy. Whereas helical is like a standard gearsetcikk286_tolokerekesvalto.jpg

nengun-1757-00-osgiken-close_gear_set.jpg

And in addition to that:

The reason straight cut is stronger VS helical cut is because the two gears aren't trying to twist off each other. The only reason helical cut gears were developed was to reduce noise.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with PAR gearsets. From the reading I did when they were supposedly having problems, it was dog engagement gearboxes that were having the problem and I can tell you now, dog engagement needs to be driven VERY SPECIFICALLY so make sure you are aware of this if you choose this path.

The options are:

Helical synchro

Helical dog

Straight synchro

Straight dog

Obviously the sets with synchromesh are nicer to drive. Dog engagement should be considered race only and if driven too 'nicely' you will f**k them very quickly

P.s. The gearset picture on top is straight dog. You can see the dog selectors which are like large castle sections which lock in together

From memory of dealing with custom Hearst manufacturers, you can also fit wider straight cut gears in a housing than you can helical cut.

This is only relevant if it's a dog box (my understanding).

This is only relevant if it's a dog box (my understanding).

Ahhh that's what I was trying to think of. This was the reason why most big HP straight cut gearsets are dog engagement.

That meant to say gearset too, not "Hearst" lol.

How strange is that, people who try to say that nothing is wrong with par ... Like look at the above comment... I just cannot believe it NOT 1 person can say they have a PAR and its great NOT 1 how can they be a good brand if this is the case?

Yeah I know a lot of people have had dramas but what I heard was the dramas were to do with the way they were being driven which caused premature wear of the dog teeth.

I cannot personally comment on their quality as I have never used a set from PAR but TBH how could they still be in business if they had a shit product. I can tell you for certain that if they are driven gently, they will be wrecked in no time. I spoke with PAR a while back about it when we were looking for solutions to breakages and they told me that was the very reason they were having problems - that and workshops fitting them that didn't know what they were doing.

NYTSKY - did your firends have the PAR sets installed by PAR? or were they fitted by someone else?

So even tho straight cut is stronger, A helical OS Giken would be the choice. That equals WOW.... They must be really bad in that case as a straight cut is roughly 35% stronger then a helical. So if an Os GIKEN helical is stronger then a Straight cut PAR, then basically a helical PAR would be around 70% weaker then a Helical OS Giken. LOL

You cannot really go wrong with OS GIken, though. No bad reports. Holds tonnes of HP.

I'm pretty sure the choice is simple

+1. I own one and it's great. The tall first is a cool thing too, although I'd say you'd really need a stroker to get the most of out this box. The tall gear's can work against you on a 'peaky curve' car.

So even tho straight cut is stronger, A helical OS Giken would be the choice. That equals WOW.... They must be really bad in that case as a straight cut is roughly 35% stronger then a helical. So if an Os GIKEN helical is stronger then a Straight cut PAR, then basically a helical PAR would be around 70% weaker then a Helical OS Giken. LOL

It isn't that straight cut (haha get it ?) you can't really say they are ~30% stronger, there are upsides to helical gearsets other than reduced noise. for example a helical gearface actually has a greater meshing contact area to distribute forces more evenly (we are speaking relatively about the gear sizes themselves obviously) helical gearsets are also more robust when you're considering axial loading.

i have a par gearset, actually, ive had 7 of them.......and to be honest, its still going through small claims after over 12 months. The gearset in question was a syncro set, and as far as im concerned, i will never reccomend them, nor use them, i would not even use the gearset to put out gerrard if he was on fire. It has cost considerable money, time and i have ZERO patience left. I highly reccomend going an OS set or the PPG set.

For more information regarding the issues feel free to PM me.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • All I can say Duncan is good luck and I hope that Neil did not run any E85 in Cheryl. I have recently experienced the full spectrum of fuel tank issues in my R33's that had been caused by E85 and contaminated fuel. When you take the cover off the top of the tank and have a look inside you will get an understanding of how easy it will be. Best case situation is clean fuel with minimal contamination. My GTR was like this and it was a very simple operation to just grab the fuel pump carrier bracket and slide it up and out of the tank. My three GTS_T's had different levels of fuel contamination that was probably caused by E85 in the fuel.  In the worst case all of the metal components in the tank had rusted to the point where there were pieces of rusted metal swirling around in the tank. This required the removal of the exhaust, the tailshaft, the complete rear cradle and the fuel tank. The components in the tank were that rusted that it took days to get the fuel pump carrier and the mounting brackets out of the tank. When the tank was finally cleaned, everything inside the tank had to be replaced. With the tank all back together I could then reinstall it in the car along with everything else that had to come out. Good luck and I hope that you find a clean tank.    
    • It is a two door. It is black and also still has the OEM wheels and stereo. Exact model would be KR_R32RGFEL_SS According to GTR-Registry.com is a 2 Door Coupe; RB20DE; 2WD no HICAS; MT.F5; (11L) Projector Headlamps and Fog Lights; (12_) Electronic Active Full Auto Air Con (Climate Control); (13-14SS) V Selection -- Which seems to be accurate description of my variant. Will try to upload a few pictures soon. The OEM wheels look like the below image. Image is taken from the goo-net-exchange website.  
    • Time: Saturday 18th January - 9am -10:30am Where:  Cafe By Lamanna 10 English St, Essendon Fields VIC 3041  - https://g.co/kgs/mhVKvAB Registration: So we can give the cafe a heads up on rough booking numbers please rsvp below Registration Link: https://forms.gle/wPtfj9Gp8bvCiouo8
    • Welcome Gabriel. At least your car has a glorious RB and not the shitty CA18. As MBS206 mentioned all the good bits can be added later. Two doors or four?
    • And half of them have been converted to turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...