Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Alright im sure this question has been asked a million times on this forum..ok

I got a aftermarket steering wheel (momo) that came with the car when i bought it (R33 GTS-T). So the hicas comes on about 10- 15 after driving and stays one until i turn of the car.

Is it alright to leave the HICAS on will it affect the car in anyway while driving ? Also how would i overcome this problem making the HICAS light go away...

thanks to anyone who can help me

Sounds like your boss kit isn't compatible with the hicas steering angle sender on the column. If you can replace the steering wheel temporarily with a stocker then you will know for sure. If so you can try and adapt the stock boss assembly to your new one or alternatley get a hicas lock kit and get rid of the rear wheel steer all together, it's the better option for sure. Then just pull the light in the dash.

Problem solved. :rant:

You will have to find out if the momo wheel came with the appropriate R33 w/HICAS boss kit. If not you will have to source a boss kit with the appropriate HICAS sensor in it.

It's not a great idea to drive around with the HICAS like that. I would replace the steering wheel with the stock one for now and do more research if I was you.

Search the forums for boss kit.

i had same problem it wasnt boss kit it was the plastic behind steering wheel wasnt centre it has to have the nissan writing facing perfectly from right to left this plattic tells the hicas what position the steering wheel is in if its crooked then the hicas thinks your turning all the time so it shuts down.All it does is lock the rear wheels straight it doesnt do any damage at all just an annoying light.this problem was in 4 other cars too but yes it could be your boss kit

When I first got my 33 the HICAS light stayed on and found out that when it went through compliance testing they put the wheel back on 400 degrees out. They have them here so I'm guessing Supercheap Auto's in oz have the hicas boss kits. They are about $65 if you need to get one.

your car will self destruct.

Re putting the steering wheel on, its easy....drive for a few metres in a straight line so you know the wheels are perfectly straight, they put the wheel straight on. Easy.

hey were would i buy one of thoses HICAS lock and how much ? is that the one from supercheap auto the other guy was talking about ?

one more thing is it dangerous to drive with the HICAS light on ? meaning like if i take a turn ma back end wont slide out or anything ? or anything similar

I have the light on permanently until I pull the globe from the dash. This is because I removed the HICAS unit and fabricated a replacement bar for improved track handling....no problems. I would suggest also that the HICAS will centre and lock if the steering wheel input was wrong.

Duncan...you been drinking mate? Stop scaring the guy.

Shan, the 32's are hydraulic run off the power steering rack, but the 33's are electric and won't affect the power steering. All the same the 32's feed can be blocked at the power steering rack and the HICAS replaced with a bar with no adverse effects.

ok so im getting alot of differnt input this is really helpfull..thanks for the help everyone but im still getting mixed answers, some ppl drive with HICAS on and some people dont...now im confused ..should i drive with it one or should i get it fixed ?

:run:

hmm i'd go with what geoff said... I know on the 32 its a bit of a bitch to drive with the HICAS sensor goin nuts (had that happen to me). Fixed the HICAS sensor and all was good. But then again as geoff says 32's are different.

As for the Tomei HICAS lock kit, i seriously doubt you'd find that in supercheap auto, unless they've made a deal with Tomei for parts.

With the 32's they came out of the factory as HCR32's or HR32's the C denoting HICAS, but with the 33's most of em were ECR33's, I'm yet to see an ER33.

Certainly if you don't wish to fit a lock system I would pull the wheel off and get it all straight, so the system works properly. I would seroiusly doubt there will be permanent damage.

Is the steering wheel straight when you drive? If so is there more lock one way than the other? (means the steering rack has been off and replaced and not centred when aligned)

my hicas light does the same thing and has been for a year and a half... light comes on after driving over about 60km/h in a straightish line for about 5km.

keep forgettin to get it checked out. pretty sure its the hicas sensor behind the steering wheel though is not plugged in or setup properly (steering wheel is stock). car handles perfectly and it hasn't caused any problems. drives perfectly straight and no different once the light appears. going to try get it sorted soon though, just since the light is annoying especially at night.

yeh

ma r33 drives perfectly fine in a straight line i was just wondering..how to take it of

just due to the fact its annoying me..to see it on all the time..i have taken of ma streering weel (aftermarket) and sure i placed it straight maybe its a sensor

how much are one of those HICAS lock ?

hey were would i buy one of thoses HICAS lock and how much  ? is that the one from supercheap auto the other guy was talking about ?

one more thing is it dangerous to drive with the HICAS light on ? meaning like if i take a turn ma back end wont slide out or anything ? or anything similar

I've had my car for about 18 months and I didnt know the HICAS light was on till I changed my cluster to a Nismo unit. Some c**t had taken the globe out.

Alan

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If the RB29 box in the car is a push clutch, then yes, you will need to deal with the pull clutch on the turbo box. You either buy a pull clutch and don't use the old one, or you do the things needed to convert the turbo box's clutch arrangement over to push. Which is a bit of a f**karound. "Making" a custom tailshaft is the easy part. But you will need to source the front clip yoke - the bit that goes into the output of the gearbox. These are not as easy to find. They are out there, but they don't grow on trees the way that they used to.
    • Indicator bulbs are way too bright to use as a "corner marker" (we call them parking lights too). Sure. Go ahead and do it. But realise that you wil need to come up with all your own wiring to do it, as no-one will have a standard howto worked out for Skylines. It's just a matter of abandoning everything that Nissan have done and starting from scratch. You'd probably be better off retrofitting tailght/brakelight globe bases into the front indicator housings and using the taillight circuit for your corner marker and the brake light as the indicator. You'd need to work out how to kill the marker circuit while the indicator is flashing, otherwise it won't flash on-off, just bright-less bright.
    • Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
×
×
  • Create New...