Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Alright im sure this question has been asked a million times on this forum..ok

I got a aftermarket steering wheel (momo) that came with the car when i bought it (R33 GTS-T). So the hicas comes on about 10- 15 after driving and stays one until i turn of the car.

Is it alright to leave the HICAS on will it affect the car in anyway while driving ? Also how would i overcome this problem making the HICAS light go away...

thanks to anyone who can help me

Sounds like your boss kit isn't compatible with the hicas steering angle sender on the column. If you can replace the steering wheel temporarily with a stocker then you will know for sure. If so you can try and adapt the stock boss assembly to your new one or alternatley get a hicas lock kit and get rid of the rear wheel steer all together, it's the better option for sure. Then just pull the light in the dash.

Problem solved. :rant:

You will have to find out if the momo wheel came with the appropriate R33 w/HICAS boss kit. If not you will have to source a boss kit with the appropriate HICAS sensor in it.

It's not a great idea to drive around with the HICAS like that. I would replace the steering wheel with the stock one for now and do more research if I was you.

Search the forums for boss kit.

i had same problem it wasnt boss kit it was the plastic behind steering wheel wasnt centre it has to have the nissan writing facing perfectly from right to left this plattic tells the hicas what position the steering wheel is in if its crooked then the hicas thinks your turning all the time so it shuts down.All it does is lock the rear wheels straight it doesnt do any damage at all just an annoying light.this problem was in 4 other cars too but yes it could be your boss kit

When I first got my 33 the HICAS light stayed on and found out that when it went through compliance testing they put the wheel back on 400 degrees out. They have them here so I'm guessing Supercheap Auto's in oz have the hicas boss kits. They are about $65 if you need to get one.

your car will self destruct.

Re putting the steering wheel on, its easy....drive for a few metres in a straight line so you know the wheels are perfectly straight, they put the wheel straight on. Easy.

hey were would i buy one of thoses HICAS lock and how much ? is that the one from supercheap auto the other guy was talking about ?

one more thing is it dangerous to drive with the HICAS light on ? meaning like if i take a turn ma back end wont slide out or anything ? or anything similar

I have the light on permanently until I pull the globe from the dash. This is because I removed the HICAS unit and fabricated a replacement bar for improved track handling....no problems. I would suggest also that the HICAS will centre and lock if the steering wheel input was wrong.

Duncan...you been drinking mate? Stop scaring the guy.

Shan, the 32's are hydraulic run off the power steering rack, but the 33's are electric and won't affect the power steering. All the same the 32's feed can be blocked at the power steering rack and the HICAS replaced with a bar with no adverse effects.

ok so im getting alot of differnt input this is really helpfull..thanks for the help everyone but im still getting mixed answers, some ppl drive with HICAS on and some people dont...now im confused ..should i drive with it one or should i get it fixed ?

:run:

hmm i'd go with what geoff said... I know on the 32 its a bit of a bitch to drive with the HICAS sensor goin nuts (had that happen to me). Fixed the HICAS sensor and all was good. But then again as geoff says 32's are different.

As for the Tomei HICAS lock kit, i seriously doubt you'd find that in supercheap auto, unless they've made a deal with Tomei for parts.

With the 32's they came out of the factory as HCR32's or HR32's the C denoting HICAS, but with the 33's most of em were ECR33's, I'm yet to see an ER33.

Certainly if you don't wish to fit a lock system I would pull the wheel off and get it all straight, so the system works properly. I would seroiusly doubt there will be permanent damage.

Is the steering wheel straight when you drive? If so is there more lock one way than the other? (means the steering rack has been off and replaced and not centred when aligned)

my hicas light does the same thing and has been for a year and a half... light comes on after driving over about 60km/h in a straightish line for about 5km.

keep forgettin to get it checked out. pretty sure its the hicas sensor behind the steering wheel though is not plugged in or setup properly (steering wheel is stock). car handles perfectly and it hasn't caused any problems. drives perfectly straight and no different once the light appears. going to try get it sorted soon though, just since the light is annoying especially at night.

yeh

ma r33 drives perfectly fine in a straight line i was just wondering..how to take it of

just due to the fact its annoying me..to see it on all the time..i have taken of ma streering weel (aftermarket) and sure i placed it straight maybe its a sensor

how much are one of those HICAS lock ?

hey were would i buy one of thoses HICAS lock and how much  ? is that the one from supercheap auto the other guy was talking about ?

one more thing is it dangerous to drive with the HICAS light on ? meaning like if i take a turn ma back end wont slide out or anything ? or anything similar

I've had my car for about 18 months and I didnt know the HICAS light was on till I changed my cluster to a Nismo unit. Some c**t had taken the globe out.

Alan

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...