Afm Maxing Out, Cold Weather?

[Badcredit33]

Hi

I have just got fitted up with a power FC and I'm running the base map for now until I get tuned, I'm in perths south and the weather here is getting pretty cold, anyway when I give full noise coming up to redline I get the check eng light flashing, along with the cat temp light on solid and my injector duty goes to 100% and the AFM voltage is getting really close to 5.0v and it feels like I'm hitting a brick wall. I know the eng light is coming on because of the AFM voltage but I'm not sure what the cat temp light is for, I don't have the cat temp sensor fitted anymore.

I'm running 10psi on stock turbo with full exhaust Fmic ect and a k&n filter with stock air box and snorkel.

I know these AFM are a Hotwire type so can the cold air affect the output signal?

I know im not leaning out or anything silly cause I have a wideband gauge running constantly in the car, also my afr on wot is constant 10.1 afr

I have ordered a z32 to overcome this problem and because the car is going to see some more mods in the next few months. Although I didn't think the stock AFM would max out with what's been done to the car so far..

Anyway I have searched through the forums for a while to no avail.

[GTSBoy]

Have you heard about knock?

[R31Nismoid]

I have just got fitted up with a power FC and I'm running the base map for now until I get tuned,

I'm in perths south and the weather here is getting pretty cold, anyway when I give full noise coming up to redline I get the check eng light flashing,

Ummm dude... You are running with an un-tuned car.

What you are seeing is the car knocking it's ass off, because it's not tuned. Just because the AFR's are 10:1 doesn't mean it's not detonating.

The base map, is just that. A basis to start from. Simply put you turn the key and then tune the car. You do not go flogging it on the base map... It's a sure fire way to kill your motor. In fact you might have already done irreversable damage...

So you've got two choices really.

1. Stop doing it and drive below 3000rpm and off-boost until it's tuned (sensible person option)

2. Keep doing it and potentially blow the motor, before it's tuned (not so sensible person option).

[R31Nismoid]

Also the car won't run with a Z32 won't work until, again, it's tuned for it.

[Badcredit33]

Hmmm ok, I was told by a tuner in Perth that running a base map of the pfc was safe "just keep watch of your AFR's" what the hell!

Ok then if what your saying is right then I'm parking it up...

Cheers

[R31Nismoid]

You shouldn't max the stock AFM with the stock turbo - or injectors for that matter.

So the engine light flashing means there is definately something up.

You can drive it, just don't flog the ass out of it. 3000rpm and light throttle = no worries.

[RandomHero83]

Safe to run as in drive off boost down to the tuner yes not limiter bash it.

Biggest misconception people have is the whole "plug and play" part of aftermarket ECU's - a Base map as stated above is a map loaded with values that are enough to turn the key and drive the car pre boost.

I have come to learn that whenever boost is involved the ammount of parameters that need to be spot on are numerous and making a mistake with them can be catastrophic,