Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well started up the car yesterday to go to work, warmed up nicly. when it hit boost it howled like crazy so i knew i was in trouble, but had to get to work, leaving work i babied it home, taking off from lights howled then slight pop now it doesnt howl but can clearly hear turbo spinning..and goes like a lead balloon.

was hoping maybe cooler pipe but kidding myself.

i take it its rebuild time, opinions? i want the stock responce, or close to.. is hypergear the one? or is there a better option for same responce. not after power.

also how long is the turnaround time? as its my only car just wondering on how long am i looking at to get swapped.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405694-turbo-finally-went-pop/
Share on other sites

Personally I believe any modification should be tuned for, especially a turbo. The stock computer has no idea the modification has been done so usually runs rich to compensate causing poor response and bad fuel economy.

also need to use car till its ready as i need to get to work. just keep it under 2k-2.5k rpm? seeing as its the exaust that gives up, i cant really do dammage to the motor right? its just the turbo.

If the turbo is unbalanced enough for the compressor to touch the housing, it'll start grinding the vanes down and the housing wall. What ever doesn't get caught in the intercooler will be going into your motor.

Your link doesn't work.

Your situation sounds exactly like what happened to me last week.

It won't be an intercooler pipe; Turbo is dead, you'll have a bunch of blade tips in the exhaust.

As Ross said; if you continue to drive it; you may end up with Aluminium filings all through your inlet tract & intercooler.

I would keep any driving to a minimum; think driving to the workshop for removal & replacement.

Any turbo you decide to have built, will be around a week turnaround, do you have a spare to have built?

Get in contact with Craig (Jetwreck); he knows.

Mine won't be going by the weekend, coatings are still being done, but I'm hoping for something close to standard; but with a bit of potential.

Edited by Daleo

well i work maybe 3km away from home at best. i need to drive today and tomorrow but have till thursday off then, so i guess im pulling it out then. any hints or tips? worth getting someone else to do it? what would that cost?

well i work maybe 3km away from home at best. i need to drive today and tomorrow but have till thursday off then, so i guess im pulling it out then. any hints or tips? worth getting someone else to do it? what would that cost?

Got access to a hoist? How mechanically inclined are you?

I believe most mechanics want around $2000-$2500 ; the worst quote I've heard is around $5000. Then you need a turbo on top of that.

Talk to Jetwreck.

i can get access to a hoist, im willing to do mechanical work if it saves $2000 lol. just got engaged and havent got cash to throw around. also if i save $2000 i can use that to justify an ECU lol

I'd recommend not to drive it. I blew mine doing recce for Targa, and had to drive it ~200km home (i was in the middle of bumf**k nowhere, didn't really have a choice) . When I pulled the turbo off, there was oil everywhere through the pipes, but luckily for my the compressor wheels just bent round instead of brake/file. But it's less than ideal to put oil all through your IC and pipework. Also you will struggle to get up any hill, or pull out into traffic.

My Turbo is currently at hypergear getting the smallest highflow avaliable.

Got access to a hoist? How mechanically inclined are you?

I believe most mechanics want around $2000-$2500 ; the worst quote I've heard is around $5000. Then you need a turbo on top of that.

Talk to Jetwreck.

Jesus is it that hard to get to the turbos on the stageas?

yeah, they pinned between the engine and firewall, hard to even see let alone get out, its an engine out ordeal it looks like, but i heard craig and scott can do it without pulling engine.

also scott, u still doing dump pipes? if im doing turbo may aswell do dumppipe while its out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dang. I love the little 'oil used' bingo card on the side.   🤣  Well, now they can use a box and an oil-filled goon.
    • Many many moons ago, I was chatting with Andy Wyatt, about his auto ignition tuning. One of the HUGE things he said to me, when tuning for power, right where you hit peak ignition timing for your max torque, dramatically increases NOx emissions. He was finding in testing, particularly on engines you could advance timing beyond peak torque, that backing the ignition timing off a couple of degrees only made for a small drop in torque (compared to if you keep backing it off further the same amount of degrees) but dramatically reduced NOx emissions. I'd say targetting for 14.7, and he's even mentioned in some scenarios going slightly leaner, and pulling a few degrees of IGN timing will help pass for emissions quite a lot. However, who tunes an RB for emissions
    • The main stuff from.Vibrant I see is more their intercooler piping, and everyone raving about their clamps, but when I looked it was about $150 per clamp... I was a bit   I also thought the public price SP had up was high. As Mark said, a normal exhaust shop can fab them. It was many years ago that I had a full exhaust built, but for a full turbo back exhaust, and 2 custom built mufflers, plus a high flow cat, was about $1,100, and that was fully installed, drive in, drive out. I believe SP was about $900 for 2 mufflers, just supplied   These days, I just buy the material and built it myself, because I need to stretch my $$$
    • I'm pretty sure if it's considered a gasoline powered vehicle you have to do certification against a fixed, very expensive certification fuel.  If you add two precats and then replace the main cat with two cats back to back you can get an RB26 to do 0.24 g/mi HC, 1.6 g/mi CO, and 0.3 g/mi NOx on the FTP-75 drive cycle. Found this out courtesy of California's laws at great expense. Divide by 1.61 to get g/km. So even with extra cats + precats you're blowing past the NOx limit by probably 2.3x. Probably the only way to get an RB25 or RB26 to meet euro 4 purely from an emissions per km standpoint and not durability/OBD2 requirements is retrofit at least intake side VVT, clearance the pistons to allow the full 50 degrees of advance so part throttle EGR can be maximized, and change the wastegate control from conventional 7 psi spring for example to one that is always fully open if the wastegate line is at 1 atm or higher and only close it in response to vacuum. See BMW's N54 engine as a reference for how this works. You would need to find space for a vacuum tank to function as an accumulator in this system. That way you can avoid any heat loss to the turbine as much as possible during cold start to heat the catalyst faster. Then find some way to eliminate as much as possible cold start enrichment to light off the catalyst rapidly. Maybe secondary air injection if there's no way to avoid cold start enrichment. Close coupled catalysts in the downpipe are probably necessary. I would also probably swap to EV14s, pick something with the correct spray targeting + dual cone pattern for the intake manifold you're using. EV1 style injectors to pass anything resembling modern emissions requires a very annoying air assisted injector system to break up the droplets at part throttle/idle which still doesn't work that great compared to just having smaller droplets from the injector to begin with. Realistically, you're probably going to be financially ahead if you just pay the fines instead. Or don't drive it into the city center. There's a reason why Nissan never bothered to even attempt certifying an RB for CA/US emissions. The VG30 needed external EGR on top of NVCS to pass in the 90s. Doing all of this work is also distinctly expensive and you're going to struggle to find anyone who is remotely interested in helping. 
    • I remember those, people use to steal them to make bongs.....
×
×
  • Create New...