Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

AIR Street drags today, took my R35 out for its first Drag meeting.

I never got a chance to take out my old 2009 R35 & it has been years since

running nines in the R33 so was great to get out there again & do some runs.

First run was a 10.7 @ 128, followed by a 10.9 @ 133, and 10.7 @ 134.

Next run was a shocker, it went into limp mode & ran a 19!

Then finished off with another 10.7 @ 130. Was great fun & now I need to put

a cage in it if I want to come back.

Might have to consider a comeback with the R33. Be interesting to see how it would

go with the Michelin slicks compared to the drag radials I used to run back in the day.

Nice one John, very consistent (except the last one :))

What happened to Kier Wilson half way through his run?

Let me know if you want some video, I think I got your last 3 runs.

Dang that's fast. You'd run neck and neck with me....on my bike! In fact you'd probably beat me more often that I'd beat you. Ultimately my R1 is faster but it takes a far more precise run to go that quick.

And ANDRA are homos.

Seriously, they need to revisit their cage rules for street cars.

Yes I would like to see some video of it.

I think 9.99 sec would be a more realistic cut off for roll cage, chutes, etc.

These days there are plenty of genuine street cars that can run into the tens.

It would be tempting to push down to the 10 flat for lots of quick car owners but

the 10.99 cut off seems to discourage that.

As far as chutes go, I was keeping it flat WAY past the traps - up to 235kmhr on one

run! Still had plenty of time to slow down & could have easily taken the corner without

washing off all the speed. I know it has to be one rule for all but old rules are starting

to get a bit conservative.

I had a great time anyway. Might just get a current ANDRA inspection done on my R33

as that has all the gear.

Nice work mate, could you elaborate on the following things for my own personal knowledge.

1. What year model is your GT-R and what modifications

2. What tyres where you running and tyre pressures

3. Did you use launch control and at what rpm was launch

4. Was it on R R off or R R R

This would help me heaps, I have an 09 with full Exhaust and cobb and would like to get in the 10s this will help me work out if its possible.

Cheers,

2011 with Willall mods - WR600 spec I believe.

New Micheins at 39psi - just drove it in there & went for it.

Yes launch in auto, RRR.

Full weight car, full weight driver! Full tank of juice.

1-2/10s better on 60' would give a 10.3 to 10.5 without too much trouble.

This is my daily so probably wont worry about doing it again - they probably stop me anyway.

Pretty happy with that, was fun to blow past the straight out exhaust V8s that were trailered there!

was good to see the runs munro. be interesting to see with lower PSI.

10.99 is a bit of a joke, plenty of cars there seemed to be running faster with no cage etc (they did seem to be v8's though) and with drum bakes on the rear. think ANDRA do need to re visit and make it 9.99 or something like that

good job

anyway

2011 with Willall mods - WR600 spec I believe

Hey mate nice run. You say willall wr600 spec for your mods. But on his site wr600 package suggests 600kw... Man if your producing over 800 hp shouldnt you should be cracking the 9's with those numbers? Are you running stock turbos?

No, its not as simple as that.

Go back a few years (ok 10 or so) & there were only a few of us that were pushing up over

450awkw with our GTRs. With 600hp at the wheels (getting up towards 800hp at the crank)

you needed to strip out your car & drive it like you stole it to push into the high nines.

After you spend tens of thousands of dollars breaking driveshafts, gearboxs, engines etc

you go crazy with more power & get into the mid nines, then in Keir's case even crazier &

into the 8s. Back then we were talking 1/4 million plus cars. 1000hp - 1300kg.

Now zoom forward to today. An R35 GTR weighs in around 1800kg with some fuel in it.

Even with 800hp, the launch control system will only give as much torque as it thinks the

treads can take - it might halve the power for that precious 1.5 seconds or so that you are

trying to move 1800kg (plus driver) over that first 60 foot.

Elapsed time on the 1/4 is ALL about the 60' time. GTRs are not designed for this.

Engine tuners just look at the mph to see what a car COULD do if it got the perfect world hookup.

My best mph on the day was 134mph. Good for a flat 10.

Back in the 90's I used to run a small block HJ ute in Super Sedan.

It ran 10.1 all day at 133mph.

With 600hp!

But it couldnt stop. Or corner.

GTRs are amazing street & circuit cars that just happen to be a bit handy down the 1/4.

No, its not as simple as that.

Go back a few years (ok 10 or so) & there were only a few of us that were pushing up over

450awkw with our GTRs. With 600hp at the wheels (getting up towards 800hp at the crank)

you needed to strip out your car & drive it like you stole it to push into the high nines.

After you spend tens of thousands of dollars breaking driveshafts, gearboxs, engines etc

you go crazy with more power & get into the mid nines, then in Keir's case even crazier &

into the 8s. Back then we were talking 1/4 million plus cars. 1000hp - 1300kg.

Now zoom forward to today. An R35 GTR weighs in around 1800kg with some fuel in it.

Even with 800hp, the launch control system will only give as much torque as it thinks the

treads can take - it might halve the power for that precious 1.5 seconds or so that you are

trying to move 1800kg (plus driver) over that first 60 foot.

Elapsed time on the 1/4 is ALL about the 60' time. GTRs are not designed for this.

Engine tuners just look at the mph to see what a car COULD do if it got the perfect world hookup.

My best mph on the day was 134mph. Good for a flat 10.

Back in the 90's I used to run a small block HJ ute in Super Sedan.

It ran 10.1 all day at 133mph.

With 600hp!

But it couldnt stop. Or corner.

GTRs are amazing street & circuit cars that just happen to be a bit handy down the 1/4.

well said:) and their is an extra 40KG ballast in the driver seat now J/K

my 32 with 400 managed mid 10's and to get any better would cost an absolute fortune.

your 33 was a weapon to get in to the 9's and look at all the comfort and style of your 'daily 35' to be just that 1sec slower:) i know which id rather.

now run the ML:)

haha. ML. now that would be funny. They are supposed to run 12.9 sec!

Martin reckons he got another 100hp out of Keir's CLS with the twin turbo 5.5L

so maybe I should let him hook up the cables to the ML & see what the fourby can do!

I think the XR6 should be next in line for a day at the drags - has been a LONG time between drinks..............

Maybe next time I take the R33 out I should ask them if I can take the tow car for 1 run - just for fun!

No, its not as simple as that.

Go back a few years (ok 10 or so) & there were only a few of us that were pushing up over

450awkw with our GTRs. With 600hp at the wheels (getting up towards 800hp at the crank)

you needed to strip out your car & drive it like you stole it to push into the high nines.

After you spend tens of thousands of dollars breaking driveshafts, gearboxs, engines etc

you go crazy with more power & get into the mid nines, then in Keir's case even crazier &

into the 8s. Back then we were talking 1/4 million plus cars. 1000hp - 1300kg.

Now zoom forward to today. An R35 GTR weighs in around 1800kg with some fuel in it.

Even with 800hp, the launch control system will only give as much torque as it thinks the

treads can take - it might halve the power for that precious 1.5 seconds or so that you are

trying to move 1800kg (plus driver) over that first 60 foot.

Elapsed time on the 1/4 is ALL about the 60' time. GTRs are not designed for this.

Engine tuners just look at the mph to see what a car COULD do if it got the perfect world hookup.

My best mph on the day was 134mph. Good for a flat 10.

Back in the 90's I used to run a small block HJ ute in Super Sedan.

It ran 10.1 all day at 133mph.

With 600hp!

But it couldnt stop. Or corner.

GTRs are amazing street & circuit cars that just happen to be a bit handy down the 1/4.

Was that ute yellow?

It's funny the difference between the Na v8s and the turbo cars

A good mate of mine runs mid-high 10s in a full weight xa Tudor with 425rwhp but given a manual box it would have a whole heap more, so don't discount the r35 off the line as pound for pound your car sounds like it gets off the line well

What I do love seeing is that xa on 15x9s and drag radials beating the guys with 15x14s tubs and huge slicks, ladder bar rear ends etc but they are a second slower then an angry streeter

haha. ML. now that would be funny. They are supposed to run 12.9 sec!

Martin reckons he got another 100hp out of Keir's CLS with the twin turbo 5.5L

so maybe I should let him hook up the cables to the ML & see what the fourby can do!

I think the XR6 should be next in line for a day at the drags - has been a LONG time between drinks..............

Maybe next time I take the R33 out I should ask them if I can take the tow car for 1 run - just for fun!

ill run the ute for you:)

someone said you maybe willing to sell the ute? i sent you a PM too:)

Ps you should run the 33 more, I saw it ah heathcote (or was it spring nats?) years and years ago

Edit - would've had to be heathcote, because from memory you broke a front shaft or something and I was pissed because I was stuck with shit tyres and running low 14s at 105 in my blue r33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...