Jump to content
SAU Community

Wsid 15Th August


FR33ZN
 Share

Recommended Posts

Any1 keen me n some mates are heading out for some fun

It will be my first time racing there very excited lol didn't end up going in June stupid weather cancelled it

Cheers Michael

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

few weeks ago i got there 5:30, then by the time you fill out the form, bring ur car around to be checked and get in line its after 6pm (racing starts at 6)

il try be there around 5:30 again

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is the entire issue. The stud should have a ringland on it, such that the stud metal, is also the same piece as attached to the ringland.   Think of it this way, take an actual bolt, turn it upside down. The head of the bolt, is the ringland, and it is all part of the stud, so you put your ring crimp over it, a washer, and bolt it down.   Because you've got a stud with not metal landing, all of your real electrical connection, is through the threads in your nut to stud. Add to that, your nut is a nylock, so it isn't even necessarily all metal to metal contact. But on a 6mm stud, your thread depth is probably 0.5mm probably a 1mm pitch, and being about 4mm of nut height. That all equates to f**k all quality contact area. Not to mention, all the other joints in that area adding tiny resistances which all add up to bad heat!   You're going wire to crimp, crimp to washer, washer to nut, nut to stud, stud to nut, nut to washer, washer to crimp, crimp to wire. 8 joints in a small area, each with a small resistance. If each joint adds 0.01ohm, that's 0.08ohm (basically immeasurable on most digital multimeters, you need a 4 wire measurement). At 25amp, 0.08ohm is giving you a 2V drop. 2V, at 25amp, is 50watts of power. Where is all that power going? Heat. You can now get someone else to go do the mafs on your stud and specific heat, and you'll start to realise why shits melting. Even if you say I've way overestimated the resistance by a factor of 10, a 5w power input constantly as heat, is pretty high too and that's on 0.008ohms!   Get a good stud kit, that has a metal landing. Get good quality crimp with plenty of metal in the ring.   PS those JayCar ring terminals have the thinnest little ring. That area that GTSBoy indicates is one of the more meaty areas of the ring terminal!
    • Is the radiator shroud still on? 
    • Hi all,   so after my hks ss turbo complete setup with all the trimmings and a tune … I have sometimes my ecu cutting boost most likely because of water temps going too high… safe guard in the tune. Suspect ppl are running aftermarket water temp gauges and sensors as the stock one is very inaccurate?    just a background it’s currently 36 degrees in the day and 90 percent humidity here. I had some issues after a 45 min drive at 6500 1.4-1.5 bar.    What is everyone doing to get around this issue bar changing up to a more advance fan system? I have already upgraded the radiator to a more efficient one. But I guess I could go even better higher level. One I am running actually came with the car.    heard these motors have serious over heating issues especially if u stop and start in traffic and it’s very hot.    thanks 
×
×
  • Create New...