Jump to content
SAU Community

Wtb: 19" Wheels Mags Rims With Staggered Offset And Width

Play
 Share

Recommended Posts

Play Explorer

Play

Posted
Posted

Hi all,

As the topics reads, i'm after a set of 19" wheels, preferably 19x9 on the front and 19x9.5 or 10 on the rear with +30 or greater offsets and living in Sydney.

I like styles such as TE37, CE28N and with a little dish. Been searching around but most are 18" in that type of offset or plenty of 19" with +22 offsets. No good for me. :(

Appreciate any offerings. Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Deep Dish V35 Experienced

Deep Dish V35

Posted
Posted

For the rear, you are aiming quite wide.

10 inches wide, maximum +45 (will still poke out JUST A BIT) but will need a stretched 255 tyre so it doesnt rub on the guard lip

9.5 inches wide, +45 will be flush

you'll struggle to find anything on the market higher than +45 offset either way....

on the front

8.5 inches wide, +30 offset... will be flush. +40 offset or higher and your tyre will rub the upper suspension arm

9's are the widest you'll get in there, unless you get aggressive offset having the rims poke out and stretch a narrow tyre.

on a 9, nothing lower than +35 offset or you will hit the inner arm AND the guard lip

as far as tyre fitments go..... every tyre is different. some 255's are physically wider than others. I found that out the hard way

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Play Explorer

Play

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thx for the advice Deep Dish V35. Much appreciated.

Yeah, i only wanted to go 9" on the front and max 10" on the rear. I had a set of Work Emotions XD9 18x10" +38 with 295/35/18 on the rear and it sat nicely, though the front didn't fit.

I do prefer a flush or under the guard look, rather than the poke out look. I dont think i would go more than +40.

Thanks again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
n15m0 Grand Master

n15m0

Posted
Posted

resale value on jap wheels are definately a lot better than the rest but given the current market its hard to sell anything at the moment. Type of wheel, specs and condition play a big part in resale. Some you pick up at a bargain and make a bit others you break even or lose a bit. All depends how desperate you are to sell etc..

I've been trying to kick the habit but something good always comes up :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites
t5iv Grand Master

t5iv

Posted
Posted

resale value on jap wheels are definately a lot better than the rest but given the current market its hard to sell anything at the moment. Type of wheel, specs and condition play a big part in resale. Some you pick up at a bargain and make a bit others you break even or lose a bit. All depends how desperate you are to sell etc..

I've been trying to kick the habit but something good always comes up :)

I'm in recruitment.... What do you do when companies are in hiring freezes? Haha

Ahh I see... Might just invest in a set of GT-Ms then

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Deep Dish V35 Experienced

Deep Dish V35

Posted
Posted

For the rear, you are aiming quite wide.

10 inches wide, maximum +45 (will still poke out JUST A BIT) but will need a stretched 255 tyre so it doesnt rub on the guard lip

9.5 inches wide, +45 will be flush

you'll struggle to find anything on the market higher than +45 offset either way....

on the front

8.5 inches wide, +30 offset... will be flush. +40 offset or higher and your tyre will rub the upper suspension arm

9's are the widest you'll get in there, unless you get aggressive offset having the rims poke out and stretch a narrow tyre.

on a 9, nothing lower than +35 offset or you will hit the inner arm AND the guard lip

as far as tyre fitments go..... every tyre is different. some 255's are physically wider than others. I found that out the hard way

Forgot to say that all offsets are allowing for slight lowering of the car. The lower the car is, the less flush those measurements will be

Link to comment
Share on other sites
n15m0 Grand Master

n15m0

Posted
Posted

I'm running 8.5 +25 fronts sorta flush lol...I have also ran 8.5 +42 fronts sunken in look but no rubbing. I've posted the below a few times. If you haven't seen it here it is again. The below is for a vehicle on standard suspension so on a lowered car, you can stretch the maximums a bit further. Max I have run at the rears are 9.5 +30 lowered on Z suspension, pokes out a bit on 245s

93661d1217440321-will-19x8-5-22-offset-fit-front-g35-sedan-sedan_wheel_fitment_chart.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Does anyone know whats happening with harness on drivers door?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The two diagrams are equivalent. The R32 one is just one sheet out of about 3 showing everything in the whole car all at once. And without knowing the functionality that occurs in the modules, they are both equally opaque.
    • Neostead2000
      R35 OEM Injector dead times

      By Neostead2000 · Posted

      8v - 2.48ms 9v - 2.15ms 10v - 1.74ms 11v - 1.41ms 12v - 1.15ms 13v - 0.99ms 14v - 0.89ms 15v - 0.82ms 16v - 0.81ms I'm running these values on my RB20 Neo with 570cc Denso R35 stock jets and it's great. Also bought a set for my Legnum VR4, love these injectors!
    • harambe34
      Does anyone know whats happening with harness on drivers door?

      By harambe34 · Posted

      Thanks for your reply,  Those blue/green wires running to the actuator aren't attached to anything, so I'm not sure how the central locking is still working. I will have to take a good look tomorrow, I don't have the car with me. After googling it seems like a pretty common aftermarket actuator which even uses the same green/blue wires the immobiliser required. i'll test everything tomorrow and if it's working i'll melt the solder, strip it, resolder and neaten it all up with some heat shrink. I don't have to understand it if it works hahaha I just don't want a fire/ short circuit. That R32 diagram looks more like a continuity chart? Can you make sense of this form the R34 manual? 10V is probably due to very flat battery, i'll recheck as well tomorrow, I did have to jump start it haha. Thanks again!  
    • GTSBoy
      Does anyone know whats happening with harness on drivers door?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      So, COM doesn't mean comms. It means common. What common itself means will depend on the type of device. For a two directional actuator (ie, one that can push and pull on the same output rod) then the common will typically just be the earth connection. There will be at least 2 other wires. If you put 12V on one of the other wires, then the actuator will push. On the other 12V wire, it will pull. Can't quite make out what is going on with the wiring of your actuator. It appears to have several wires at the actuator plug, but there only appears to be 2 wires where its loom approaches the door control module, with at least one of the others cut off. I don't know these actuators off by heart. I'd have to look at a wiring diagram for one before knowing what the wires were about, and that's despite me having to replace one in my car not all that long ago. Just not interesting enough to have dedicated memory set aside for trivia like that any more. That actuator is an aftermarket one, not the original one, which probably died and was replaced. That might require some sort of bodge job on wiring to make it work. Although nothing should justify the bodginess of the bodge job done. As to the soldering job on the door module's loom plug. Ahhahhahaha. Yes, very nasty. Again, I cant tell you what any of those wires do. You'd need to study the R34 wiring diagram (if you can find one that shows the door module). I don't think I have any. I'd have to study the R32 diagram to start to understand what mine is doing, and again, even though I've had a problem with mine for the last 25 years (where it locks the passenger door when the driver's window reaches top or bottom of travel) I'm just not interested enough to try to to work it out. So long as it's not burning down, it's fine with me. Here's the R32 GTR diagram, which, confusingly, has rear door lock actuators and window motors on it!! As you can see, unless you understand the functions of the door lock timer and the power window amplifier, you'll never be able to work out how it works just from the diagram. I don't imagine that the R34 one is any better. Hopefully an R34 aware bod can help. FWIW, the two wires that are cut and joined look like they are both power supply - so hopefully it is not fatal to join them. The 10V you measured on the cut off free end of one of them is concerning. You'd expect 12V, and it might be the reason for the bodge job joining them together.
    • harambe34
      Does anyone know whats happening with harness on drivers door?

      By harambe34 · Posted

      Oops my bad, here you go .
×
×
  • Create New...