Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Same as Sean, sometimes peaks at over 2000rpm on cold mornings, but only for a second, then quickly drops back to about 1500rpm, then drops slowly until the engine is warm, then sits on 600.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405987-revs-at-startup/#findComment-6467569
Share on other sites

One thing i have noticed though when i park my car over night outside and i drive in the morning, the engine sounds a lot better cold than warm (normal) but it feels a little bit gutless until it's warm but that just may be because i have it overnight 12 hours or so in 10ish degree cold.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405987-revs-at-startup/#findComment-6467632
Share on other sites

you might need an oil change? how long until your next?

or one of your O2 sensors might be faulty/dirty.

or it's really cold

Flushed and changed my oil last weekend, o2 sensors are fine checked those a few weeks ago too.

He's in Mackay... It doesn't get cold.

Not true man! 2 weeks ago it hit 4 degrees here at night/morning

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405987-revs-at-startup/#findComment-6467930
Share on other sites

not sure why it does it.. the VQ35 in other cars doesn't rev that high.. but it does seem normal for the V35.

My Stagea revs to about 2400 for a second from first start in the morning and then drops as it warms up. Always has.

Damn thing won't drop below 750 when warm...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405987-revs-at-startup/#findComment-6468121
Share on other sites

have you done the idle air volume learn procedure?

After cleaning my throttle body, it wouldn't idle much below 900 until I ran this process.

I guess the VQ35 in the Stagea is probably setup the same. The VQ35 in the Murano and Maxima don't rev anywhere near as high at cold startup.. not sure why our cars need to?? I know they are tuned differently, but I am not sure why that would make a difference.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405987-revs-at-startup/#findComment-6468173
Share on other sites

i remember my startup revs situation started happening after installing the 350z intake tube. did both the throttle learn and idle air volume procedures multiple times with no improvement. there are absolutely no leaks anywhere.

its something i want to fix before installing the plenum spacer.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405987-revs-at-startup/#findComment-6468331
Share on other sites

have you done the idle air volume learn procedure?

After cleaning my throttle body, it wouldn't idle much below 900 until I ran this process.

I guess the VQ35 in the Stagea is probably setup the same. The VQ35 in the Murano and Maxima don't rev anywhere near as high at cold startup.. not sure why our cars need to?? I know they are tuned differently, but I am not sure why that would make a difference.

I did indeed. Prior to the relearn, it liked idling at 950rpm when warm.

Far cry from my old VQ25det Stagea that idled at 550 when warm.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405987-revs-at-startup/#findComment-6468430
Share on other sites

Damn thing won't drop below 750 when warm...

I have a cable (+ laptop) & can set the idle to whatever I like (within reason). I should send it down to you one day; if no one in Melbourne has one you can borrow.

Edited by Commsman
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405987-revs-at-startup/#findComment-6468491
Share on other sites

I'm far from an expert on any of this but is it possible that the vq35 in our cars reacts differently than other models due to being released for the Japanese market? It gets extremely cold there so maybe it is required for that climate??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405987-revs-at-startup/#findComment-6468540
Share on other sites

Usually, and don't quote me on this :D they will rev higher on startup to heat up cat coverters quicker for emissions reasons.

A mate's 350ZHR did the same thing.

I would say this probably isn't the reason, the revs only peak to 2000rpm for a second then drop back to about 1500rpm, which is where most cars idle when cold. If the intention was to heat the cats and O2 sensors, it would need to stay at high rpm for much longer.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405987-revs-at-startup/#findComment-6468684
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update for the sake of closure   Ended up getting the intercooler piping all sorted, new plugs and yellow jacket coils, and she was idling mint until it warmed up while I was bleeding the cooling system. Found the misfire to be localised to cyl 3 by unplugging coilpacks, ran a compression test, that checked out, then decided to get a mate to check if that spark plug was firing out of the motor. Upon cranking it over, with the injectors disconnected, the car actually fired and ran on a couple cylinders and heaps of fuel came out the top of cyl 3 I'd say that injector's either spraying incorrectly or spraying far too much, which is fine as I'm planning on replacing them anyway I'm planning on making about 250kW on flex fuel, and have a set of 1000cc injectors from ozautosport, obviously overkill but I'm planning on building the motor and running more boost further down the line, do you reckon they'd be too big for a smooth idle on 98? Thanks for the replies gents, much appreciated
    • I'm confused. You said you want to "remove the clear coat from most panels" but it sounds like you are actually doing a full respray? Few random things to add -  If you chase the blistered paint with 120 grit, I can almost guarantee you'll chase it down to bare metal (that's fine). But if you paint the car from here, you'll have nice little indents where ever the blistered paint was. The new paint won't magically level out the low areas, you need to fill them. Which leads me to the main point I wanted to add, make sure the whole car is flat before you paint it. All those areas with blistered paint you sanded out, make sure to fill them and triple check they are flat with a block guide coat. I'd also check the whole car is flat with a large block and guide coat but yeah up to you if you want to go that far.   
    • 300hp (225kw) is barely outside the standard turbo's range with a bit of extra boost in it (200ish). If you are going to change the turbo you should aim for 250-300kw (330-400hp) to make the expense worthwhile
    • A couple of things, firstly omg that turbo is expensive! $3,000 USD for dinosaur technology is robbery. You could buy a G series turbo and have a good amount of change instead.  If you want a good budget option, have a look here - https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/ If you are keen to spend more, have look at the modern turbos, Garrett G series, Borgwarner EFR, etc. Have a look at the RB25 dyno results thread for inspiration.  If you upgrade your turbo to something that will support the 300hp you want and only "probably" have Haltech ECU, your car will only "probably" run. Actually, no it won't run. You are going to need the ECU and injectors at the time you do the turbo upgrade.  No thoughts on "this much boost" as you didn't say how much boost that actually is. Having said that, plenty of unopened RB25's making even more power then what you are chasing.   
×
×
  • Create New...