Jump to content
SAU Community

Sticking Hand Brake / Light?


Recommended Posts

I have a S1 Stagea RS4 auto with the under dash hand brake + release handle, I've just had the rear brake pads replaced and last night I noticed the (!) symbol flickering on & off whilst driving.

Is there a sensor for this light? Or do I just need to find the hand brake cable and apply some grease?

Any thoughts?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

actually, it is more likely to be low brake fluid - the handbrake light is also used for that.

Have a look at the fluid level in the large resoviour in the engine bay near the driver's a pillar. If it is low you either have a fluid leak (bad) or your pads and discs are low and ready for replacement

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Aren't there two resivours and if so where are they, i know the one near the break booster but someone was talking about one below there or something. I think i have this same problem or at least i hope it's this simple!!!???

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the responses, I checked the brake fluid level & it's close to the max mark. So low discs could be it, as I know the fronts will need doing too!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

sorry I wasn't very clear - the warning light is either handbrake on or low brake fluid, and low brake fluid only happens from a leak or sometimes pads worn.

If you have plenty of fluid in the master cylinder, it must be the handbrake switch not releasing properly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

sorry I wasn't very clear - the warning light is either handbrake on or low brake fluid, and low brake fluid only happens from a leak or sometimes pads worn.

If you have plenty of fluid in the master cylinder, it must be the handbrake switch not releasing properly.

Thanks Duncan, I'll have a look to see what I can do!?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Has anybody located the switch I'm referring too?

I have a S1 Stagea RS4 auto with the under dash hand brake + release handle, I've just had the rear brake pads replaced and last night I noticed the (!) symbol flickering on & off whilst driving.

Is there a sensor for this light? Or do I just need to find the hand brake cable and apply some grease?

Any thoughts?

The switch should be on the rearward side of the foot brake you use for parking. Its a peg type that extends out ward to form the earth for the circuit when you depress this lever.

Having rear pads replaced wont help your park brake position as the park brake is the internal hub type (Pretty sure). If you have noticed an improvement in your park brake its possible there has been an adjustment made to your cable under the dash rather than at the rear wheels.

Could be the switch has been knocked loose?

Try releasing the park brake then get your toe under the pedal and pull it back a bit.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I still have the same problem. At first I had to put my foot under the pedal to make it release, then it stuck altogether.

I fixed it by disconnecting it. Maybe one day I will try again and also make the ABS light go OFF.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Which cable seizes? Is it the one from the dash to the splitter, or one of the wheel cables?

Generally, the inner sheath rusts and damages the plastic coating on the cable, which makes it jam. No amount of lube down the sheath will free them up.

I know it's pretty obvious, but if you can work out which cable it is; there are companies that can manufacture factory style, plastic coated inner wire replacement cables.

I'm sure Nissan replacement cables will be fairly pricey.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The rusty cable may be the answer I am looking for. The 25G came from a salty road area in Japan. While repairing the smash damage we found several patches of quite serious rust and had it all cut out and repaired. Soon as it is driveable this week will put it on the hoist and check it out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So I've been working on the car a fair bit, doing a lot of little things. Preparing some projects for this winter, as I'm taking 13 weeks off very soon for parental leave. Have my second kid on the way and he's due any week now. I'll need something to do while he's sleeping. I also usually take the car off the road in about a month and a half, until sometime around the end of March.  Still making slight adjustments to my tune, as the cold weather settles in. I've also had to start dropping boost and tire pressure as the weather gets cooler. It's getting very swirly at highway speeds. I drop to 20psi at 20C and 18psi spring pressure at 10C IAT's. I'm currently on 255 Falcon RT660's, but may look into running 275's next summer. They will fit, but barely. Might have to raise the rear a tad.  I'll start redoing my exhaust Monday, as I have the week off. I currently have an oval center muffler and cannon rear muffler. I've been told more then once from people behind me that my rear bumper is going to catch on fire one day. Seems I blow 5-10 second flames after doing a pull. No clue if that's the WMI, as I've never been able to do that before with other cars. I wanted to angle my tip down a tad so flames are pointed down and away from bumper. I also wanted to take the opportunity to reconfigure my exhaust line. I'm going to move my oval muffler to the rear with a pie cut angled tip and put in a new smaller round muffler in the center. I've rocked cannon mufflers on this car for the last few years and want to transition back the oval muffler look. I've also been looking for a stainless project to try out the new solar flux I bought. I'll post pictures on Monday, should be able to wrap that up in a day.  I'm also picking up another rear subframe this week. I wanted a second so that I could modify one with a gk tech anti squat reduction kit during the winter, and still be able to keep the car a roller so I can back it out of the garage if needed. I will also be caging it this winter. More on that later. Lastly, Speedtek still hasn't given me diddly squat. Every week for the last 4 weeks, they have been saying next week. They told me Friday to expect a shipping label that day to ship my two bad sets of ring and pinions back and nothing. There's definitely been more contact since I started destroying their company any chance I get on Facebook, but it's still just words without action.   
    • Have you done a pressure test on your intake/piping? Cleaned your IACV and Cold start valve?
    • Bit of a dump of ones I saw on my trip. I also have a heap from daikoko but that’s technically not  on the street 
    • i was thinking that the 2 wires that go to the sub from factory has some sort of preamp like you mentioned and also a lo Pass filter to get just bass. now that will only use 1 channel and that really should be all i need for a sub? if i was trying to put a set of speakers in the back i can understand cutting into the left and right speaker wires. i will try how im talking about doing it and if that is crap i will do it the way of all wires. thanks for the input guys.  
    • Challenging mig welding thin Aluminium pipe and trying to fit it in, having to bend and twist, but got there in the end. Fits really well and can easily get a socket wrench in there now to put it on/off. I'm in the middle of another project, so haven't installed the suction pipe yet. I'll post some pictures and results when i do.
×
×
  • Create New...