Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

okay i have a R32 with a RB20DET and before putting it in the shed it was running mint didnt miss a beat.

And its been almost 2 years and iv gone to start it and found it very hard to start and when it did i had to hold the throttle on to keep it alive and is coughing and spluttering, high fuel smell from the exhaust.

I changed the plugs and drained the fuel and added fresh stuff in and it didnt help.

Checked spark all good.

so i started to pull the plugs off the coils to work out what cyls are down and i believe at least the first 2 are not going and even maybe the 3rd as well. As there was really no difference with the coil unplugged.

have i got clogged injectors? or some thing deeper?

They are Sard 550cc, they were installed about 3yrs ago from new.

okay i have a R32 with a RB20DET and before putting it in the shed it was running mint didnt miss a beat.

And its been almost 2 years and iv gone to start it and found it very hard to start and when it did i had to hold the throttle on to keep it alive and is coughing and spluttering, high fuel smell from the exhaust.

Needs a good flogging most likey be injectors of

If

Loss Of compression Dryed valve stem seals

I changed the plugs and drained the fuel and added fresh stuff in and it didnt help.

Checked spark all good.

so i started to pull the plugs off the coils to work out what cyls are down and i believe at least the first 2 are not going and even maybe the 3rd as well. As there was really no difference with the coil unplugged.

have i got clogged injectors? or some thing deeper?

They are Sard 550cc, they were installed about 3yrs ago from new.

  • 2 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Just install a grease nipple into the centre of the outer steel of the FUCA. Make sure the bushes aren't long enough to touch each other underneath that nipple. Cut a few mm off each if need be. Then you can push grease in there while it is all assembled. That was the very first thing I did (to all 4 ends) of the FUCAs on my 32 when I put Whiteline adjustable bushes into them. They would squeeze the grease out real fast, and I could squeeze it back in faster.
    • @GTSBoy I found the issue (sort of) when I took apart the bushing again, it was completely dry inside! When I experimented with it, all the grease would push out when I would compress the bushings. I wonder if this has anything to do with me putting in the poly bush first on both sides and then pushing in the metal barrel. Maybe I should have put in the metal barrel first then the rubber bushings so the spread pattern is different.   It's fixed (for now).
    • Just redid that entire job. 4 hours, but tightened everything properly. Had to jack the rotor instead of having the car on blocks as there was no room for the FUCA arms to tighten and the j arm. All good now. Cheers for the help!
    • I would sell those side feeds before you hydra-lock a motor. I won't say too much about Yellow Jackets because I'll hurt people's feelings, however ask those that tune RBs day in/out what they think of them.
    • The 1000ccs are side feeds but they're not currently installed, had my old factory ones in for leak testing purposes, only decided on them because front facing plenums and good top feed rail kits are out of my budget at the moment, are they really that problematic? Had a set of yellow jackets that lasted me 5 years, no real issues, only replaced them chasing this misfire issue that ended up not being ignition related 😄  
×
×
  • Create New...