Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey everyone,

wierd problem, my number plate lights have stopped working, along with 1 of the reverse lights .... has anyone incured this problem before?

I'm currently trying to find an english conversion/version of the interior fuse box to see if its a fuse problem, however a 'fuse' problem would tell me that "both" reverse lights shouldnt be working not just 1 or the other ..

did a search on here, and doesnt seem to be anyone posting this issue before, but i'm hoping someone might hvae some info on how to help with it...

cheers guys!!

reverse lights are powered thru a single 10A fuse (#71) in the fuse box behind the battery

number plate lights are powered thru a single 10A fuse (#75) in the same fuse box, which also powers your tail lights and parkers.

if either fuse was blown you would have many more lights not woking.

edit - it wont be a fuse problem but heres a quick tip. number plate bulb is a T10. you could swap it with your boot interior bulb to check if its a fuse or possibly a socket problem

reverse bulbs - just swap them around to check if its a fuse or even a poor socket. theyre an oddball T15 i think

Edited by Deep Dish V35

its a defect to have any form of light missing/broken its 1 point and $100 if im correct and it also may lead to other deffects as such

Think that you've got two different problems mate.

Try replacing the reverse light bulb and not worrying about the number plate. If people can't see it at night, that's a good thing... right?

http://www.police.ql...8/Ch_08_PT2.htm press (CTRL + F type in light)

Interesting...Got pulled for it in NSW and just claimed that I didn't realise - which I didn't (long trip from Brisbane to Sydney and was tired).

Copper allowed me to drive to a servo and pick one up. Just let me off like that, hence why I didn't think it was defectable.

Also, this was when I was in my S13 and looked like a h00n!

well got some bulbs from mate @ http://www.86forums.com.au , these LED fancy thingos, just need to get some time to try slot them in ...

and with the reverse light, my rachet broke, so i cant get the damn tail light out :( was one of those weekends

errr , im just worried about getting the lights working over the # plate :P

currently 1 reverse light still lights up a bit, sux where I live its a dark corridor to reverse down, so i've gotta feather the brake to help me see if any kids decide on doing a bolt

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The previous switchover point was 501mv. The stock value is like ~360. They now were idling at about ~880. The thing is, most people get a false lean condition. I am getting false rich conditions. This isn't a quirk of terminology, most cam upgraders get awful fuel economy because the O2's read false lean and add fuel - Mine are attempting to aggressively subtract fuel.
    • So... the whole idea was to upgrade the power of the motor from stock. The motor I bought with the gearbox had 'some' stuff done to it in the past, but it wasn't as well thought out/what I had wanted to do. The stock heads typically are a big restriction on LS's and need porting to unlock quite a lot of power. You can then go a bit silly with aftermarket castings to get more, aftermarket intake manifolds for a little more, and then porting those for more. <- We are here. Nobody in Australia really goes down this path (for some reason). It might* make 3kw or something more than doing things the tried and true path for 10X the cost. So that's probably why - I wouldn't even recommend it to people, the money was and is likely better spent on just CNC'ing the stock heads and putting a 6.3L stroker kit in. I didn't want to go down the 'normal' path and then think: But if I'd just done a bit more - I could have had a slightly better result. I assumed the heads were running out of flow and it always annoyed me - Turns out the previous installer advanced the cam 6 degrees so this is likely why it was coming on earlier and running out of puff earlier than advertised. The body panels were just lack of planning/no information on this anywhere on the internet and the fact they came out different was annoying. From test fitting the guard it appears I could have gotten away with GTR guards only, but I got the bonnet and raisers and everything else as well for a pretty decent package deal.
    • So you had a car that by all accounts drove well and survived track days, and that was looking great after months of being stuck at a paint shop. Some might call that a finished project. But you decided this is not quite right. So now the car does not run anymore. And the engine doesn't fit anymore. And the body parts don't match anymore. But, this is progress somehow. Greg, I think your subconscious does not like you and does not want you to drive this car. (I know I know, this whole escalation was not intended, but man, what a rollercoaster)
    • Yeah, but the narrowband is truly narrowband. So you take it out of the linear zone and it is effectively nonsense. And that linear zone is so literally narrow, that nonsense is not very far away. Unless they are flicking back and forth across the stoich point, for real, under actual control, they can't be trusted for anything except entertainment value.
×
×
  • Create New...