Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok so my 32 has a little issue,

This happens In the morning or the evening after the car has sat for a decent amount of time, I don't run the car hard as it is a daily, 45 min drive to work.

Anyway, I get smoke out of the exhaust, it seems to be an oil smoke.

It comes out when I accellarate, but only once....I.e

Accellarate to 3000 rpm, will smoke ...do it again to 3 k...no smoke

Rev further to higher rpm and more smoke after 3krpm, make sense?

It seems to clear it out, like clearing your throat.

I always warm the car up never drive cold.

My thoughts were theirs oil draining/ seeping somewhere it shouldn't and being sucked back into the engine when I go again later on.

One it's cleared theirs no more smoke

What should I be checking here?

I do know from a service report that my turbo oil drain line had a slight weep, any link here do you think?

Edited by GH05T
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406304-smoke-in-the-morning/
Share on other sites

Possibly valve stem seals. Car sits and a small amount of oil weeps past the seal. Start car, give it a squirt and the oil burns off.

Give it a comp test and if it comes up chipper, then it's likely the valve stem seals as they won't generally, affect your compression. If comp is down then you have a bigger problem.

Then I'd say almost defo valve stem seals.

If it is valve stem seals I wouldn't be too concerned. Just make sure you keep an eye on your oil level and if it gets worse, like blowing smoke under power and or a lot of of smoke on start up, then it's time to look at getting your head refreshed.

That puff of smoke on cold takeoff is usually condensate oil from the PCV running down into the manifold overnight. You can try fitting a small sealed catch can full of stainless steel wool in the pcv hose to prove it.

That's what it seems like, from a stand still any acceleration gives a noticeable amount of blue smoke (visage at night in headlights behind) and like I said its like it puffs as far as it revs, but only once, accel to 2000rp with smoke but only once, more smoke when you go past that rpm again,

Is this problem going to get worse if the car gets driven hard? I drive daily and maby one in a while it gets a caining, should I be carefull, is their anything I can spenda bit of coin n to help further expenses ?

I always warm the car up never drive cold.

Drive it cold (but sensibly!). Most of the damage is done when the engine is cold. It will warm up much quicker than simply letting it idle.

And you won't be coming back later asking why your fuel economy is so crap.

dont care at all about fuel i dont pay for it, i run my car for 15 mins in the morning before driving, i run it for about 3-5 in the evening after work, nether affect the smoke though, its always the same

Blind_elk is right. Warming up vehicles, especially ones that rev, is a very bad idea. Generally at idle the oil pump isn't pushing a great deal of oil around and there's not much temp increase which means it takes longer to get oil everywhere and also up to temp.

Start car, let idle for 30 seconds then get driving.

Idling a cold car for 15 minutes is a great way to destroy rings and valve stem seals.

Yeah idling for 15 minutes is not a good idea at all, would barely warm it up, would get up to temp in 1-2 minutes of normal driving otherwise. Start it, wait 30 seconds then drive off staying off boost until temp is up.

Smoke could be turbo seal or valve stem seals.

Edited by Rolls

Valve stem seals means head off. In reality leaky valve stem seals won't do any damage (at least in your case as it seems not too bad.. They'll just progressively get worse until such time as it smokes a lot more or all the time and then it needs to be fixed.

I'm not sure how hard it is to get the head off an RB as I've not done one, but once off, barring any weird RB specific oddity, the seals might be maybe $100 or so and the work to actually fit them might be 4 hours (that's a pretty rough guesstimate). Of course, if it were me, with the head off and the valve train off it would be hard to resist giving the head a through going over.

As for turbo seals, that's a tougher one. That means turbo off and either a "back to stock" rebuild for $500+ or replace with something tastier for $1000+ plus required supporting mods.

TBH it sounds to me more like valve stem seals rather than turbo. I think if it was the turbo it would produce more smoke under load.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I mean yes, if you're starting from scratch on an unknown engine yes you don't need to be doing all kinds of math in the background but if you're doing relatively minor changes like AFM + injectors + boost up with some aftermarket turbos it takes quite a bit of math if you want to do something like maintain OEM fuel + timing tables but compressed and then a bit more load scale up top. I think I've spent too much time working on big engineering nightmares though so I'm a big fan of trying to constrain the scope of whatever work I'm doing as much as possible and trying to get it right before moving on. For example, a local owner just did the usual E85 + single turbo conversion to his R32 GTR and nearly burned his car to the ground doing some spirited driving up the local mountains. Turbine is unshielded and too close to the hood insulation. It's tough to balance "just get the project done" and "seemingly small details can cause massive setbacks I'm not willing to deal with".
    • No idea about Neil's steering wheel, but I have the same behaviour in the Stagea. I doubt it has ever been messed with so might be normal. Indicating to turn right at a roundabout and correcting even a little bit to the left to go around will cancel the indicator. Never considered it an issue other than it being a bit odd.
    • Does anyone know if this is off centered? Looks like it, when I indicate to go right, but turn my steering wheel slightly left it cancels (was always like that even before I started messing around with it) was wondering if anyone else has the same issue?
    • Nothing photo worthy since last update, lots of little plumbing bits for the AAC/Cold start valves, and unfortunately I still need another couple of parts for the brake booster line and the AAC into the plenum. Otherwise it all looks good to start up engine wise, onto checking the electrics/interior
    • Good news mate, plenty of spares available 5:40  
×
×
  • Create New...