Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Doing some research for the actual advantages of 24U vs O5U, I contacted Endless-r in japan. They claim that the older rb26 blocks (used in the late model r32's) have the same nickel content as a 24U N1 items. They also claim that from years of being used it has "heat treated/strengthened" the block even further. The majority of the builds they do will have an older 05U block as the base rather then the 24U item.

Have seen plenty of 05U blocks crack (my old workshop had shelves upon shelves of them) but the majority of them where from earlier model GTR's (long nosed r32, r33 and r34). Usualy go between the coreplugs under the turbos, and in worse cases they will pop the core plug out. Also pretty common around the starter motor too. Never seen a 24U block crack. For me 24U block would be a must if your gonna chase more power/rape it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406326-n1-block/#findComment-6475011
Share on other sites

That's 2 (almost 3) conflicting bits of info; 05U after years are as strong as 24U, 05U out of early RB26 powered cars break, then all 3 RB26 powered generations are listed as early RBs .. Just sayin'

The previous owner of my car split a standard (97 GTR) block within 1000 kms after putting a 77.7 mm crank in it. It got screwed back together with a RRR block (in 2006) and no issues with cracking blocks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406326-n1-block/#findComment-6475031
Share on other sites

The previous owner of my car split a standard (97 GTR) block within 1000 kms after putting a 77.7 mm crank in it. It got screwed back together with a RRR block (in 2006) and no issues with cracking blocks.

Yes yes, we re all very impressed by your $10,000 block, go to bed ya drunk :D

Edited by GTR_JOEY
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406326-n1-block/#findComment-6475211
Share on other sites

I've heard similar about the old 32 blocks getting stronger with age. Would still like to see proof of that. This might be the reason muscle car builders prefer seasoned blocks or weathered blocks. Look at the RB30, +25 years old and still going strong, look at the power these blocks can produce no worries.

I just bought a N1 block yesterday cheap cheap too :-) it's done 25000ks then spun a bearing :-/

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406326-n1-block/#findComment-6475357
Share on other sites

The thermal cycling of a block essential acts as a heat treatment cycle, thus stress releiving the microstructure. Thus the older the block, generally the more heat cycles it's been through and thus the less residual stress, hence a stronger block.

In addition to the above, I have heard (not sure where sorry) the first 500 or so r32 rb26 blocks were made to the same spec(or just chemistry) as the n1 blocks, just not marked the same.

If I could get hold of some fragments of various blocks agross the years, I could properly get a spectro and microstructure analsys done through work.

Edited by wedge_r34gtr
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406326-n1-block/#findComment-6475401
Share on other sites

That's 2 (almost 3) conflicting bits of info; 05U after years are as strong as 24U, 05U out of early RB26 powered cars break, then all 3 RB26 powered generations are listed as early RBs .. Just sayin'

Replace the word early with late/vice versa :yes:

Edited by marksuxass
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406326-n1-block/#findComment-6476181
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’m thinking that’s the route I’ll  go, thanks for the input!
    • Hey all, my 2004 Nissan Skyline 350GT overheated the other day with coolant boiling and leaking out of the coolant reservoir when I was parking. So today, I started it up again just to see if it was a thermostat/head gasket issue. After about 20 mins of running, temps were normal again, no coolant was leaking out and the upper reservoir hose was warm but my engine suddenly cut off. I checked the oil dipstick and cap when it was running and there was no white foamy residue and the exhaust did not have white smoke. I tried starting up the car again but it would only crank, similar to when I had a camshaft sensor issue just that now there’s no check engine light on the dash. Any ideas? Unfortunately I don’t have an OBD2 that can read the Nissan's programme.
    • Bump on this to not make another post, had a ‘head drain’ leak on me and have the engine out as we speak. Planning on just putting a new freeze plug back in , plug the tapped holes and just be done with that headache.    Now I still want to relieve pressure to allow oil to pass down the blocks returns easier. I’ve seen catch cans with multiple vents help folks with this issue on this forum.  I’m wanting to make my own. I have some pictures here of my setup if anyone can help how I should plumb and design the catch can I would deeply appreciate it !   rb25 Oil upgrades: 1.0mm restrictor n1 pump/billet gears extended crank collar  extended sump with trap doors/w welded fitting    
    • The Frenchy's kit is the way to go forward. A modern compressor that weighs about 1/2 as much, is at least twice as efficient, and will do a good job on R134a. And of course the kit has everything else you need to connect it up and have it work properly.
    • Hey all , I am in the process of having the AC system in my r32 GTST converted from r12 to r134a and I’m being told my compressor has gone bad and I will need a new one. I was wondering if anybody has any suggestions for what is the best route to go aside from dropping $1500 on a new oem one? I did see that Frenchy’s performance garage offers a kit to mount a Toyota compressor, has anybody actually used this kit on their car? Or is there anywhere I could purchase just a clutch? Any help is appreciated.
×
×
  • Create New...