Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Doing some research for the actual advantages of 24U vs O5U, I contacted Endless-r in japan. They claim that the older rb26 blocks (used in the late model r32's) have the same nickel content as a 24U N1 items. They also claim that from years of being used it has "heat treated/strengthened" the block even further. The majority of the builds they do will have an older 05U block as the base rather then the 24U item.

Have seen plenty of 05U blocks crack (my old workshop had shelves upon shelves of them) but the majority of them where from earlier model GTR's (long nosed r32, r33 and r34). Usualy go between the coreplugs under the turbos, and in worse cases they will pop the core plug out. Also pretty common around the starter motor too. Never seen a 24U block crack. For me 24U block would be a must if your gonna chase more power/rape it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406326-n1-block/#findComment-6475011
Share on other sites

That's 2 (almost 3) conflicting bits of info; 05U after years are as strong as 24U, 05U out of early RB26 powered cars break, then all 3 RB26 powered generations are listed as early RBs .. Just sayin'

The previous owner of my car split a standard (97 GTR) block within 1000 kms after putting a 77.7 mm crank in it. It got screwed back together with a RRR block (in 2006) and no issues with cracking blocks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406326-n1-block/#findComment-6475031
Share on other sites

The previous owner of my car split a standard (97 GTR) block within 1000 kms after putting a 77.7 mm crank in it. It got screwed back together with a RRR block (in 2006) and no issues with cracking blocks.

Yes yes, we re all very impressed by your $10,000 block, go to bed ya drunk :D

Edited by GTR_JOEY
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406326-n1-block/#findComment-6475211
Share on other sites

I've heard similar about the old 32 blocks getting stronger with age. Would still like to see proof of that. This might be the reason muscle car builders prefer seasoned blocks or weathered blocks. Look at the RB30, +25 years old and still going strong, look at the power these blocks can produce no worries.

I just bought a N1 block yesterday cheap cheap too :-) it's done 25000ks then spun a bearing :-/

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406326-n1-block/#findComment-6475357
Share on other sites

The thermal cycling of a block essential acts as a heat treatment cycle, thus stress releiving the microstructure. Thus the older the block, generally the more heat cycles it's been through and thus the less residual stress, hence a stronger block.

In addition to the above, I have heard (not sure where sorry) the first 500 or so r32 rb26 blocks were made to the same spec(or just chemistry) as the n1 blocks, just not marked the same.

If I could get hold of some fragments of various blocks agross the years, I could properly get a spectro and microstructure analsys done through work.

Edited by wedge_r34gtr
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406326-n1-block/#findComment-6475401
Share on other sites

That's 2 (almost 3) conflicting bits of info; 05U after years are as strong as 24U, 05U out of early RB26 powered cars break, then all 3 RB26 powered generations are listed as early RBs .. Just sayin'

Replace the word early with late/vice versa :yes:

Edited by marksuxass
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406326-n1-block/#findComment-6476181
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MR HAMMER has said his piece. Painted up to avoid Rusty Rusty. Actually lines up well. (i.e it lines up the same as the unmolested GTR guard). Turns out the GTR Strut brace does foul on the bonnet vents ever so slightly. May need a little bendy bendy if intended to keep using with a strut brace. So spacing it out to clear the FAST102 is not an option. Annoyingly, the bonnet vents also foul on the heater lines running over the engine. Given this engine does not EVER require a heater, a delete loop is going to be used. Don't worry, the defogger uses the AC. The heater is basically "Do not use the aircon and turn the fan on". It will still be effective, I promise.... once I get the system regassed... Will have to revisit with unvented bonnet I suppose, and suitable strut brace. There's plans to do this and other things tonight and bleed brakes (there was a weep) and put the bumper back on, and take Good Friday morning - Because troubleshooting on the side of the road limping it home at midnight tonight is ... not very smart.
    • Thank you all for you assistance. I contacted Nistune regarding the support for the RB20DE along with my ECU Code (23710-10U00). They do have a map for it and added the RB20DE as a purchasable option now as well. They also added Malta as a Billing and Delivery options as this was missing. I was honestly amazed at their quick response and action, it took less than 24 hours. I also looked again at direct fit options for injectors, just in case I were to replace them. DeatschWerks seem to use a Bosch EV14 base and makes ones that fit mine at 440cc lowest, but also have 550cc at the same price. I tried looking for other direct fit options and managed to find one (also Bosch EV14 based) which includes a plug and play adapter on ebay. Did a small test with a Noid Light on the troubled injectors and all seems good, so they are pulsing properly electrically. One weird part is that they are missing on the same two cylinders as before I got the injectors cleaned. Mechanic also found this weird as he did not label the injectors and it is unlikely to have the faulty injectors be installed in the same cylinders.  
    • Nice, let me know how you find the 98 tune
    • Put a hand on an injector and see if that's what the buzzing is. You might be triggering the injectors by moving off idle command.
×
×
  • Create New...