Rewiring Front Headlights. Removing The Old?

[DaShMiEsTeR]

hey guys,

I am sure this is a recurring problem for all 32 users experiencing problems with this circuitry.

I have spent a few hours looking for information on this but nothing is shedding light on the problem.

This is the forum I have found most relative but its 2006! -> http://www.skylinesa..._1#entry5275351

My old rotary headlight switch started playing (LHS turning off then Driver's side etc etc) up so I replaced it with one from the wreckers. I have noticed this one is heating up also and those little black pins will distort within a few months and I will be back at square one. It will be the same when buying a new one.

However, I did find a useful link -> http://www.danielste...ays/relays.html

From the above forum and I am using the R32 Car Manual.

I have begun creating the harness but I need tips on how to remove the old wiring? With the relays in the new circuit will it eliminate the need for those tiny springs inside the headlight switch?

I feel that part, the heating (due to resistance) and the OEM low gauge wire running all the way to the headlight switch are redundant and need to be replaced completely.

let me know what you think.

-Damien

N.B I have PM'd some of the members in the forum above.

Edited August 6, 2012 by DaShMiEsTeR

[DaShMiEsTeR]

This is what I ended up with. I am waiting for the car battery to charge fully before I give it a try. I stupidly forgot to take a picture of it before I started wiring it in.

There is also a 30A fuse in between Battery + and the Relay "Power In" (30). Edited August 10, 2012 by DaShMiEsTeR

[R.3.2.G.T.R]

any updates?

[DaShMiEsTeR]

I have the whole setup in at the moment. I am kind of stumped with wiring the switch in. I have nothing else but the harness hooked up to the battery.

I used the 2nd configuration in the link here --> http://www.bcae1.com/swrelay.htm

I have tried a few ways to wire it in but this seems to be right. I am not sure if I should ground the switch also but I am going to try my friends HID ballast's this weekend because it could be those. I have 3 sets of bulbs so I am certain it is not those.

I will post a picture of what outcome I get. I am positive the lights will be much brighter than those running HID's on OEM wiring. The thicker gauge wiring and shortened circuit will attribute to this.

[DaShMiEsTeR]

This is an updated version of what I ended up with. Still not working yet though!

[DaShMiEsTeR]

Was only about $50 all up from Super Cheap for the following:

Approx. 3-6m - 25AMP Wire ( I got varying colours for Negative and Positive and a third for the headlight switch circuit - plus bright colours were cheaper)

Approx. 3m - Any lower gauge wire because it only needs to switch the relay.

x1 Pack of Ring connectors for the battery terminals

x1 30Amp12V Relay with DUAL 87s (mine is 'Hella' brand)

x1 30Amp12V Switch

x1 30Amp 12V Fuse holder

x2 generic plastic plugs (x2 sockets (+) & (-)) for HID negative and positive for easy removal in the future.

x2 Red & Black tape for labeling and insulation

In addition to the above I have used:

-A soldering iron with rosin core

-some left over bits of heat shrink to make it neat

-Some old speaker cable with zip ties for trace line

-multi-meter to check voltage rates

-can of Contact Cleaner

[DaShMiEsTeR]

I am about to call the Auto Electricians. I hooked everything back up and went to test the circuit and now my car won't even crank or switch on the Accessory lights!!!

I have checked every fuse and remounted/cleaned the grounded terminal on the car that the battery feeds to.

ANY HELP would be appreciated.