Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey people, just wondering because its pretty fustrating. doesnt matter how much soap i put it suds up nice for first few seconds then after you start using it, it goes to water,

ive tryed maguires wash and wax, and mothers carwash (both not cheap products)

i first put hot water then use gerni to get it mixed nicely

anything im doing wrong?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406490-carwash-soap-doesnt-sub-up-well/
Share on other sites

ideally the best way is to first fill up your bucket with water then add the soap whist mixing it in by hand - the reason for this is that you want the soaps and suds to be kept inside the water, keeping it slippery and lubricated

so when you use your mitt/sponge to absorb it and go over your car, there is the maximum amount of slip and lube between the mitt and your paint

IMO bubbles are wasted lubricant that should be in your wash solution not on top

also pretty basic but make sure you are applying the correct amount of wash as per the size of your bucket - ie wash and wax recommends 30mL/4L so if your bucket is 8L, use 60mL if it is 12L use 90mL and so forth - i bought a plastic measuring cup from the $2 shop which allows you to use the correct amount without wasting any

One of the better car wash vids - if you wna skip straight to where he pours the soap into the bucket its @ about 5:00

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/rqdEVtOPKAM" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Edited by squareznboxez

Suds really aren't too important mate, Final inspections PPBS (high end soap) doesn't sud very much at all. neither does auto glyms.

All you need are lubricity and a PH balanced solution as was previously mentioned.

Suds = useless and mean nothing. People have been made to "think" that unless it 'suds up', you don't have enough or it's not a good solution.

As Jonno34 pointed out, what you want is a pH neutral solution with high lubricity. Water down some of FI's PPBS (Paint Pampering Body Shampoo) and run it through your finger tips, even diluted you can still tell the lubricity is very high.

I also wouldn't be putting my shampoo solution in a bucket either. The best way IMO is to have your buckets full of clean, hot water. Do a pre-rinse with PPBS solution and hot water and then i wash the car with a spray pack of washing solution. So as i go around i put a few sprays on the panel, a few sprays on the washing mitt. This way you have even coverage of washing solution a;ready on the panel you're about to clean.

I use an old brake-cleaner pump-pack as the pre-rinse dispenser and then an old 500ml FI trigger bottle for when i'm doing the main wash. Use less product, nice big even spray from the pack gives you good coverage of the panel and you keep the rinse water the way it should be, clean rinse water (well for as long as you can)

  • 4 weeks later...

Not necessarily true about the suds thing. I have recently bought a foam lance which hooks up to my Karcher pressure washer.

This creates a really nice thick foam that sits on the cars surface. The reason for this is to let the suds suck up any dust and dirt that isn't stuck to your paint.

You then rinse it off and begin your normal washing process whatever that may be.

I have found that this actually does work quite well, in reducing the small scratches you create when you are applying your normal wash with a microfibre mitt or sponge.

I wasn't really sold on it but i am def sold on it now.

lol science of washing a car...

Wanna know how I do it? $5 Armorall heavy duty wash and a $2 jumbo sponge. 4 caps in a regular bucket as you're filling it with water. Clears the sinuses and as a bonus it also cleans your car. Squirt panel with water, soap it up, squirt again.

Put some effort into waxing and the washing part won't need to be rocket science. On that note, I use a $7 paste wax that continues to bead after 6 months. Come at me premium products:

C53drC0S_original.png

Pour the product/solution all over the car when wet " not mixed " Perfect system with no scratch

This is the best way by far , dont f...k around using a capful here and there = use at least a handful straight on the paint all over the car

  • 1 month later...

This is the best way by far , dont f...k around using a capful here and there = use at least a handful straight on the paint all over the car

you quoted your own comment

-_-

Edited by w34ponGT

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha actually I did join back then under a different email address,  I couldn't re-activate my account so made a new one! I didn't post much anyway so not missing out on much. Amazing to see how the value of the cars and parts has changed over the years, also ACT section appears to be dead now. 
    • Thanks... It's in pretty good condition overall, probably due to not being drifted/tuned however being a daily driver has taken its toll. Had 100k on the clock when I got it, up to 180k now. Unfortunately it's not 100% dent free, it's got a small dent on FLH side and broken indicator from where I hit a small kangaroo at high speed. If you look at closely at pic #5 you might spot the dodgy trailer light repair my old man and I rigged up as temporary repair! - It's still there due to a combo of needing the car as daily driver and then too lazy/busy to fix properly. I've a couple of other minor accidents accidents as well but nothing major. One required a new front bar and unfortunately the smash repairer ordered the normal gtst one and not the aero bar. Needed the car back asap so just went with it, regretted ever since.
    • I can't believe that anyone is foolish enough to believe that the base maps are for any other purpose than to drive the car up onto the trailer/truck or gently creep it to the dyno. No matter how good they are, they can never be any better than the factory maps**, and only the foolish trust those on a significantly modified setup. **Yeah, yeah. I know there's also the difference between factory maps being fixed to certain injector sizes and MAP/AFM/VE relationships, and the likely aftermarket ECU base maps being better able to handle the sorts of changes that would render a stock ECU dangerous, like different sized injectors. But let's just ignore that for the moment, because the principle is still the same.  
    • I'm shocked, you've owned a Skyline since 2006 and never joined SAU before now! 😮   Welcome, it's much quieter these days than it was in 2006, but lots of very knowledgeable ones lurk around here. I actually think in outage we've forgotten more about Skylines than anyone knows about them today... 😛
    • So it could give us some info. Such as we find out what number they started at, and we know how many of those blocks came before it.
×
×
  • Create New...