Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So in trying to track down my intermittent idle issue on my R33 gtst, I noticed that the exhaust manifold ground lead looks pretty old and frayed. I know 2 things about wiring, one that a good ground is important and the other is I know pretty much nothing else about wiring...so was going to run some ground leads from the block to chassis...could someone point me in the right direction of the best sort of wire to use, and best points to do it from? Like I said don't know alot about it, so any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406535-earthing-for-rb25/
Share on other sites

When I took the manifold off i noticed how charred it was @ turbo end. Pulled it straight to measure for a replacement, it was dust. Fell to bits. I replaced it with another earth strap. Used a copper lug and is fine with the heat. Put a multi from heat shield to chassis point and check resistance to see if it needs replacing.

If I understand correctly the earth strap is to prevent electrolysis, I doubt it would help your idle.

Edited by GoHard

I would check your coil packs also. If your talking about the wire from the heat shield to the body then that is to stop static electricity that might come off from around the turbo from it spinning.

My car came with an aftermarket earthing kit which has about 8 leads going to various places on the block and the cas bolts etc. There are a few around so I guess there is a market for them but didn't do a before and after so don't know how really usefull they are. But definitely replace any obviously dodgy connections.

  • 2 years later...
  • 9 years later...

I noticed my earth wire was disconnected when I attempted to do some work, but the wire was yanked off with the bolt still attached to the exhaust manifold heat shield. I used an aluminium connector to replace it from super cheap like this, will it melt? I was worried as the old one is steel. 

https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/sca-sca-electrical-terminals---ring-eye-5.0mm-red-25-pack/120047.html?cgid=SCA01060604#start=48

 

I removed the rubber of course as that's going to melt.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had never actually looked into it, but aren't onboard compressors a thing in trucks?
    • Read the ECU for fault codes or have someone else do it. A faulty coolant temperature sender is usually listed in ECUs. If the sensor itself is not busted it can also be a bad ground connection. Or in a really unlucky case, damaged wiring.
    • Can't be a Futjitsubo as those are made with a flex piece and Reimax is smaller in pipe diameter. If anything it is closest to a Mines pipe, but evidently it is not an actual Mines pipe.   Classic word humor
    • Alright I will try to not forget.   As GTSboy replied to you already, problem is mainly the mismatch between the actual exhaust part and the denomination in the papers. That basically just looks like tampering to a cop, if they were to check your car and notice. If it had been done right they would have clarified it to be a custom pipe and just given it a certain part number that you have to engrave or weld onto the pipe. I will definitely inquire on what to do. Changing the pipe wouldn't be my favorite solution as it costs a bunch of money and the cat was fitted with the front pipe and exhaust under the car, and if the front pipe flange does not sit in the OEM location the cat will need to be refit for any other pipe to work. It also usually doesn't need a brand name or something like that, but more something like a part number. Usually for exhaust parts, on silencers and cat units specifically, there is a badge that reads the certificate number that belongs to these exhaust parts under EU regulation. You get these numbers after you put a part or group of parts through the tedious testing according to EU vehicle legislation and they pass. You can find these "part numbers" on various parts throughout a EU vehicle. On windows, headlights, engine parts, seat belts and so on. All these parts have gone through standardized testing and acquired a so called ECE or EG Certificate that makes them legal to use by themselves in all countries that adhere to these standards. You can also not alter these parts in any way, if you do they become illegal. An example for stampings on an exterior lighting part, the people who need to know can find the documentation for this unit in a database. I do not know what all the standards and so on mean.
    • If that was the case I suppose you could call it "Mein's" brand....  ... I'll see myself out... 😅
×
×
  • Create New...