Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A very rough quote to supply a complete RB30 short with better rods pistons and collar was around five grand , in your lap BTY . Not sure about R/R and anything needed to make it happen thats not a straight bolt up/in .

Cost wise throwing in say a Link/ViPec plug in with any wiring/sensor work and turning probably adds another dunno 2-2.5G ? The PFC and Datalogit can be sold to offset some of this .

I like the idea of not having the ethanol variation hassle and being able to find a performance/consumption trade off would be great . Can run the highways on PULP and use the grog when its available .

The only downside I can think of for E85 or Eflex is the 15-40% petrol they add - 91 octane powere Kero I suppose . Shame its possibly not easy to get E100 and throw in your own PULP .

I hear that good tuners can get you emissions compliant with a reasonable cat too .

GTRS , interesting to see what these would be like on a cleaned up 25 with jungle juice . Should make some reasonably fierce low to mid range torque and maybe top out at say 270 Kw if the exhaust and intercooling could manage it .

A .

  • Replies 87
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Plenty of people run the stock RB30 bottom end to 7000rpm... I mean really your making the power like 1000rpm sooner so you end up still having a larger power spread, which is basically the whole point of doing rb30 lol

Anyway my vote is for both :) but if your sticking with the GTRS then its probably not worth the extra hassle for the 3L..

dont know if that would be safe/reliable, i asked my tuner when my car was being tuned and he was of the opinion that the crankshaft on an RB30 doesnt suit 7000rpm and should not reliably be pushed like that... dont want to start a debate on this, i would only consider doing it the safe way and not pushing limits that are not safe...

i would imagine that GTRS would be an absolute response monster with ethanol...

is it not being a bit overkill looking for computers to run varying ethanol content?? my tuner was quite happy with tuning it on flex and allowing me to monitor knock levels for changing mixtures.. he suggested if i was concerned about the summer mix being different i could come back for a quick run on the dyno to check the tune.. which i will do in order to look after the engine..

A very rough quote to supply a complete RB30 short with better rods pistons and collar was around five grand , in your lap BTY . Not sure about R/R and anything needed to make it happen thats not a straight bolt up/in .

Cost wise throwing in say a Link/ViPec plug in with any wiring/sensor work and turning probably adds another dunno 2-2.5G ? The PFC and Datalogit can be sold to offset some of this .

I like the idea of not having the ethanol variation hassle and being able to find a performance/consumption trade off would be great . Can run the highways on PULP and use the grog when its available .

The only downside I can think of for E85 or Eflex is the 15-40% petrol they add - 91 octane powere Kero I suppose . Shame its possibly not easy to get E100 and throw in your own PULP .

I hear that good tuners can get you emissions compliant with a reasonable cat too .

GTRS , interesting to see what these would be like on a cleaned up 25 with jungle juice . Should make some reasonably fierce low to mid range torque and maybe top out at say 270 Kw if the exhaust and intercooling could manage it .

A .

98RON + GT-RS = grouse

E85 + Gt-RS = super-grouse

Yeah I think 260-270 would be plenty and a GTRS looks so innocent compared to a GT3076R .

Everyone reckons the Link/Vipec runs an RB25 a bit smoother than a PFC and that auto tune thing looks intersting

Will talk to SK and Scotty K soon .

A ..

Disco, I assume its for the street since you mentioned being emissions compliant?

If so, I'd go RB30DET + E85 Flex Fuel...

IMO The redline limit on the motor is close to being irrelevant for this application. As previsouly mentioned, having the extra capcity increases the usable rev-range of the motor. You can turn RB30's to higher RPM limits, you just need to make the proper modifications (Balancer, pump etc.). In any case, if your spending that much time on the street near your limiter, you deserve to have your license taken away from you.

My biggest issue with my setup is not being able to put the power I have down to the ground. R32 GTST RB30DET with ~280RWKW is quite a handfull at times. That said, I need to get a decent set of street semi's and a 1.5 Way C-LSD.

Edited by R32Abuser

I completely understand going for an RB30 on a GTR and Stagea due to the extra weight of the car.

The GTS-t just isn't that heavy, E85/flex fuel setup is so much cheaper and will be grip limited everywhere with a GT-RS.

imo GT-RS + 3L will be rubbish and be falling over at 5k rpm without making anymore power than what the 25 can do

Disco, whack a good intercooler on and up the boost with the 98 tune, if you are concerned about legalities than get a Blitz turn flow thing, factory intercoolers are rubbish unless its off a Rb26...hell my JZA70 intercooler is 3x (if not more) the size of a 34 side mount and its holding me back at near stock power

or for even less money than E85 there is WMI

I agree in terms of weight. Although you can't beat power to weight, there is still a massive limit to what you can practically put to the ground without comprimising other areas of the car (excessive squat etc etc.)

I also agree at the cost aspect. However, apples for apples, there is a significant difference between driving an RB30 vs RB25. I've found the RB30 to be a more "streetable" motor. If you want to take off from the lights quickly, you dont need to stall the car up and look like a hoon or rev the thing to 5000RPM. Just torque away, barely getting on boost.

Zebra, by no means would I be chucking a GT-RS at an RB30. I'd be chucking a GT3076R on it or equivelent. Smaller than that and the thing chokes up. Larger and you start to lose the response you were after in the first place.

Edited by R32Abuser

imo GT-RS + 3L will be rubbish and be falling over at 5k rpm without making anymore power than what the 25 can do

Disco, whack a good intercooler on and up the boost with the 98 tune, if you are concerned about legalities than get a Blitz turn flow thing, factory intercoolers are rubbish unless its off a Rb26...hell my JZA70 intercooler is 3x (if not more) the size of a 34 side mount and its holding me back at near stock power

or for even less money than E85 there is WMI

He's not going to listen to you.

I agree in terms of weight. Although you can't beat power to weight, there is still a massive limit to what you can practically put to the ground without comprimising other areas of the car (excessive squat etc etc.)

I also agree at the cost aspect. However, apples for apples, there is a significant difference between driving an RB30 vs RB25. I've found the RB30 to be a more "streetable" motor. If you want to take off from the lights quickly, you dont need to stall the car up and look like a hoon or rev the thing to 5000RPM. Just torque away, barely getting on boost.

Zebra, by no means would I be chucking a GT-RS at an RB30. I'd be chucking a GT3076R on it or equivelent. Smaller than that and the thing chokes up. Larger and you start to lose the response you were after in the first place.

definitely this, would make an awesome 300kw with RB30/25 GT3076 0.6 rear and E85 , be loving traffic light take off's on lowish revs :yes:

Edited by SliverS2

definitely this, would make an awesome 300kw with RB30/25 GT3076 0.6 rear and E85 , be loving traffic light take off's on lowish revs :yes:

0.63 is too small IMO.

See:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/405332-3076r-on-2630/page__view__findpost__p__6463026

Simons RB26/30 with Std cams, E85, GT3076R 0.63 A/R etc. chokes up top. All over by about 5750RPM. Bare in mind that graph is on a hub-pack dyno not a roller...

My GT3076R 0.82 A/R is still making power upto 6100 RPM but we ran out of fuel pump/injectors/AFM to do anything more. Makes ~230RWKW @ 4000RPM and peaks 281RWKW @ 6100 RPM. It's probably capable of 300RWKW with a bit of fuel/AFM and a psi or two...but who cares!

0.63 is too small IMO.

See:

http://www.skylinesa...ost__p__6463026

Simons RB26/30 with Std cams, E85, GT3076R 0.63 A/R etc. chokes up top. All over by about 5750RPM. Bare in mind that graph is on a hub-pack dyno not a roller...

My GT3076R 0.82 A/R is still making power upto 6100 RPM but we ran out of fuel pump/injectors/AFM to do anything more. Makes ~230RWKW @ 4000RPM and peaks 281RWKW @ 6100 RPM. It's probably capable of 300RWKW with a bit of fuel/AFM and a psi or two...but who cares!

he said he wants "fierce low to mid range torque and maybe top out at say 270 Kw" , which is more 0.63 territory isnt it??

Edited by SliverS2

he said he wants "fierce low to mid range torque and maybe top out at say 270 Kw" , which is more 0.63 territory isnt it??

problem is that it would have the usable rev range of a turbo diesel

A well setup .82 gt3076 with an external gate is still pretty responsive on a stock rb25. I guess it's different strokes for different folks and everyone has different definitions and requirements for response.

Edited by Mitcho_7

ive always thought the vl turbo's were the ultimate in response for the street, on song at 2000rpm and strong... had longer gears too

had a ride in a modded one few years ago ,( 13flat quarter) pulled hard from 1200rpm to the redline.. for the street that in my opinion is the ultimate responsive weapon, city street need low rev pull to have fun.. setups where nothing happens till 3500-4000rpm are bit hard to enjoy on short city streets..but each to there own..

Edited by SliverS2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Doing a refresh of my 33 and can see a few websites stating they sell the entire main carpet for our cars, but they all have generic photos which is fine, i understand they are custom made to order.  Just seeing if anyone has got it done or had any experience with this, as i would only want to do it if the fit and finish was as good as oem https://carmatsdirect.com.au/products/moulded-carpet-or-vinyl-for-nissan-skyline-r33-1993-1998-coupe https://knoxautocarpets.com.au/moulded-carpets/nissan/skyline/skyline-r-33-1993-1998/
    • Any plans for E85? If so, add flex fuel sensor.   I'd probably add in the sensors I mentioned above if the Link will support using them for engine protection. With water pressure, you need to be able to effectively set it that "If temp > X, and pressure = atmospheric, shutdown" as at running temp, you should be able to read pressure in the cooling system. If pressure suddenly disappears, it means the water went some where, and this is a quicker reaction than waiting on water temp to go up (Which, can take a little longer than you'd like, considering it now has to wait for hot air to heat it up) Oil pressure, Oil temp, both would be on my list too if you're looking to add sensors. Wideband O2. And at least one EGT sensor. If you're feeling deluxe, put in individual runner EGTs. Single EGT sensor is more so forget about a specific number, get used to "What is normal EGTs", and then keep an eye on it, if it starts going away from "normal" it's a sign something is wrong (Also, things like the tune can still start going out of spec, but EGTs may not show it, for example one injector starts running leaning, so ECU richens everything up, now 5 out of 6 cylinders are rich, and running cool, with one cylinder lean and running hotter, so it's not perfect) Then there is your other things to look at non sensor related, but you may have already done, or have underway, and that would be things like building a sump for more oil, and better oil control under high G-Forces (Cornering, brakes, acceleration). Basically, the above is worth looking/thinking about, if the ECU can do protective stuff with it, and you continue to use it how you are (Drive it to the track, thrash it, drive home, repeat once every 3 to 4 months)
    • Can also confirm these work a treat for most balljoints and bushes. If you have access to a big rattle gun, they make the job so much easier and quicker, compared to using a socket wrench or shifter on the c-clamp 👍
    • Its sort of street but got used for circuit sprints on account of I never drive it on the road because I dont have the time to spare. So it usage was sits around for months at a time then gets driven either 50 or 250 kms to the track followed by 20 laps followed by 50 or 250kms home followed by stuck in the shed until next time. So yeah neither fish nor fowl. Just dont want to break it on the track as a preference. Hence the fairly short sensor/mod list. Probably more worried about it pinging itself to destruction more so than anything oil related.
    • My thing I'd be doing, is pulling it out, and just getting the tune cleaned up for now. Before that even happens, checking over everything, like vac hoses, fuel hoses, etc. No point dropping thousands on sensors if the moment you start it back up all the oil leaks out, or it has massive vacuum leaks etc.   But really, to know what to do, depends on what your use case is. Hard core track car? Throw most sensors available at it. Street car, I'd probably just run oil pressure, oil temps, water pressure, water temp, probably fuel pressure too. I don't know exactly what the Link can handle and do with those though. And if it's mainly just to cruise the streets, rather than mountain runs, you can probably skip most of the above if you've already got them in as gauges and warning lights.   PS, inb4 "sell it and buy a modern sportscar"
×
×
  • Create New...