Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As the title states, he requires 3 or more members with an auto r33 wanting a road and dynotune.

I'm keen on getting this done so you have your 1st

Forgive me if i'm wrong but for $700 that makes for a fantastic fun car

my car has

11psi turbotech

fmic kit

split dump, turbo back exhaust stock cat

pod with cai

For a good road tune with Nistune here in SA, you could try one of the developers behind Nistune. Is a SR specialist, but I've heard others had their skylines roadtuned by Pete: http://www.plmsdevelopments.com/

Pete from PLMS tuned Rolls (R32 RB25DET Neo Hi-Flow etc.) and my car (RB30DET, GT3076R etc) and did a fantastic job. Has plenty of experience with RB's from what I've heard.

VERY THOROUGH and patient. Pete wants the job done right and enjoys seeing the results as much as the owner.

Other tuners to note are Simon at Morpowa and I've also heard good things about Willall Racing.

Pete is excellent. Never had him tune my car obviously as I live in WA, but he was a massive help to me when I had my issues with my ECU. Incredibly patient and very very helpful.

Also consider Declan from Garage 7.

Very very easy going guy. Will answer any questions you have. Once you get him started on the topic of tuning, have a good half an hour spare to talk to him.

Declan uses a DynaPak in Pooraka and is very thorough with his tunes. He loves to see the results after a tune, more so than the customer some times i think haha.

Im doing nistune (Z32 ecu and R32 ECU) and realtime R33 ecu tune both.

But Nistune (Z32 and R32 ecu) do not work for AUTO.(his car is AUTO)

Only R33 ecu tune or HKS FCON Vpro except piggyback ecu.(Im not recommend piggyback for R33)

yeah, auto. All the quotes i had from a couple of the mentioned businesses were quite extreme for somewhat of a 'light tune' skyline. They seemed to have the common response of r32/z32 nistune while manuallising the auto. Piggyback route worked out around 11-1300 for install and basic tune, more for road and dyno or manualized auto with nistune was around 13-1400 with dyno and road tune.

It would either end up being a mail order tune, or SAFC tune. And Toshi's quoted price has been by far the cheapest so far

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So we have most the interior back in, and for the first time with one OEM speaker hooked up. The 31 is running, driving and now tunes!!! Hahaha yet another step for the sub that sat 10m under for two weeks!!! unbelievable really 👌 lots of love work and not giving up on her. Seen so many youngsters part way less, and in way better condition. I’m stubborn, thinking another problem is just a hurdle to overcome, One at a time. IMG_9277.mov
    • That is correct. I'm using a modified ABS ring and a ZF speed sensor on my rear diff for speed input. I'm running a Haltech ecu. 
    • Been busy with the newborn. We originally thought we were going to go for a third, but we're good with two lol. He's starting to actually sleep now so I've had some energy to work on the car. It's been parked away in the garage since late November due to winter.  I went ahead and redid all my head oil drains. I originally had my front and rear head drain going into the same pipe but have since split them up. I also added an Ethanol content sensor to get ready to run E85 this summer. Tossed it on my return line. Sensor sits nicely under my intake manifold.    I also have a lot of parts that came in for my rear end. I'll be swapping over to a 3.3 final drive and doing the GK teck anti squat mod. While the rear subframe is off, I'll also change every bushing. We're planning on buying another house soon with the condition that I get at a minimum a 2 door garage, so I'll wait to have more room for this. Now onto the strange things that recently happened... After changing the lower rad hose (It had been sitting in my cabinet for well over a year and was the last hose I had to replace), I let the car idle in the garage to bleed my coolant. After running for a few minutes, it started missing. Got much worst within a minute or two and then stalled and would not restart. My crank sensor decided to crap itself. No damage, no explanation, just died. I went ahead and replaced it with another ZF sensor but the heavier duty stainless model with a shield. Tossed that in and started right up. Has anyone else seen this? I hate when things fail without cause. Luckily this was a blessing in disguise... This lead me to recheck my timing. It seems I may have had a beer or two the last time I had set my TDC angle as I was off exactly 5 degrees... I miscounted a line haha. I was running 5 degrees less then commanded. It's a little embarrassing but helps explain why my dyno operator seemed to think I should be making more then 478rwkws.        
    • Sharing results from recent Liberty Walk R35 GTR, since they are still considered as somesort of a V36 Skyline. We do them turbos too. This are high flowed SS-1 models with ball bearing conversion done.  Car have managed to pull 485awkws @ 20Psi so far pushing limitations of factory built engine. The build list for R35 GTR enthusiasts as follow : HyperGear high flowed stock turbos in SS1 (G25-660 specs) Custom titanium intake pipes. Vspec performance titanium front pipes. Vspec performance 4" titanium exhaust. Upgrade fuel pumps. 1200cc injectors. Ignition coilpacks Hks intake plenum. Hks intercooler piping. Greddy intercooler. Greddy bovs. Top-secret coolant reservoir. Emtron ecu. Straight E85. Built gear box.  
    • Nah no bearings, just slip fit.  Would be a reasonably challenging but not impossible job to modify it to run bearings but I'm hoping that's not necessary as I may have well built one myself if I end up spending hours modifying it!
×
×
  • Create New...