Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Im new to the forum, i got myself a 2008 v36 skyline sedan with HDD navigation, currently im running an iphone + tomtom gps + video cable out through aux input with ground wire mod to the system. My question is it is possible to retrofit a whole 370z dvd sat nav system to v36 since from what i can see is that it is almost identical? (my guess it will cost prob around 10k if im not mistaken). also with infiniti launching soon, will that be possible to buy g37 satnav sys and install it on the car?

Thanks.

Chris will be able to give you the full rundown, but from my basic experience having pulled the dash on my car apart on multiple occasions, I would say, just forget about it. This car is wired up so that EVERYTHING effects EVERYTHING else. You would need to replace the entire sat nav, air con controls, steering wheel controls etc etc etc. For example, I learnt that if you disconnect only the 4 wire touchscreen ribbon (wire that connects from the touch screen overlay to the touch screen circuit board), the steering wheel controls and air con simply stop working. I have no idea why and it makes no since to me, but this is what happens. Also, because of the fact that you can adjust many of the functions through this unit, ie. the sensitivity of the auto headlights, you may find that simply swapping units makes many of these features unusable or unstable.

Seriously though, even if it was possible, would you really think that it was worth $10,000??? Seems kinda crazy to me.

@Alkatraz yeah thats what i thought, it will be very hard since all the system is fully integrated inside and will cost alot lot of $$. and i read lot of post by chriss about mod the v36 to have an aux garmin or external gps unit.. oh well, i guess i just need to deal with it at the moment. Its such a shame since the system actually really smart all headlight control, blluetooth, tv, the voice recognition (I speak japanese so it help me a bit). I used to own a w204 c class with COMAND system, even merc voice recognition and system is not even as good as the skyline. even only if somehow we can convert the tv without using the aux input.. thanks anyway guys..

@V35_Paul i'll be interested in what Autotainment can do, hmm will take a look at it..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update for the sake of closure   Ended up getting the intercooler piping all sorted, new plugs and yellow jacket coils, and she was idling mint until it warmed up while I was bleeding the cooling system. Found the misfire to be localised to cyl 3 by unplugging coilpacks, ran a compression test, that checked out, then decided to get a mate to check if that spark plug was firing out of the motor. Upon cranking it over, with the injectors disconnected, the car actually fired and ran on a couple cylinders and heaps of fuel came out the top of cyl 3 I'd say that injector's either spraying incorrectly or spraying far too much, which is fine as I'm planning on replacing them anyway I'm planning on making about 250kW on flex fuel, and have a set of 1000cc injectors from ozautosport, obviously overkill but I'm planning on building the motor and running more boost further down the line, do you reckon they'd be too big for a smooth idle on 98? Thanks for the replies gents, much appreciated
    • I'm confused. You said you want to "remove the clear coat from most panels" but it sounds like you are actually doing a full respray? Few random things to add -  If you chase the blistered paint with 120 grit, I can almost guarantee you'll chase it down to bare metal (that's fine). But if you paint the car from here, you'll have nice little indents where ever the blistered paint was. The new paint won't magically level out the low areas, you need to fill them. Which leads me to the main point I wanted to add, make sure the whole car is flat before you paint it. All those areas with blistered paint you sanded out, make sure to fill them and triple check they are flat with a block guide coat. I'd also check the whole car is flat with a large block and guide coat but yeah up to you if you want to go that far.   
    • 300hp (225kw) is barely outside the standard turbo's range with a bit of extra boost in it (200ish). If you are going to change the turbo you should aim for 250-300kw (330-400hp) to make the expense worthwhile
    • A couple of things, firstly omg that turbo is expensive! $3,000 USD for dinosaur technology is robbery. You could buy a G series turbo and have a good amount of change instead.  If you want a good budget option, have a look here - https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/ If you are keen to spend more, have look at the modern turbos, Garrett G series, Borgwarner EFR, etc. Have a look at the RB25 dyno results thread for inspiration.  If you upgrade your turbo to something that will support the 300hp you want and only "probably" have Haltech ECU, your car will only "probably" run. Actually, no it won't run. You are going to need the ECU and injectors at the time you do the turbo upgrade.  No thoughts on "this much boost" as you didn't say how much boost that actually is. Having said that, plenty of unopened RB25's making even more power then what you are chasing.   
×
×
  • Create New...