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Ok so a bunch of interior and stuff for sale in the for sale section..

http://www.skylinesdownunder.com/forums/showthread.php?p=601407#post601407

A few random photos from the last two weeks..

Started stripping the loom... mm spaghetti... removing all excess wiring for hicas, factory speaker amp, boot light, etc.

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Bucket of wiring removed so far... plenty to go

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Finally out of the garage on its wheels..

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Dash and door cards out... looking rather bare and very loud with no exhaust + no interior!

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Got a few moments in the garage today so thought I'd mock up my latest purchase.

Grabbed a spare front hub and mounted it in the vice

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This box had shown up earlier in the week

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Inside - caliper dogbones to allow me to use regular calipers with 324mm rotors :D

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They come with all the hardware - high tensile hex head bolts

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Also these showed up - new 324mm rotors as used on R33 GTRs with brembos..

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Now to fit one of my refurbished calipers and bask in cheap big brake goodness..

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@#$%^%E#@!! that doesn't look right.

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A rather large gap and only 3/4 of the pad is in contact... I got these calipers 8 years ago with the rolling body and had measured them then compared to other peoples measurements and decided they were S14 (280mm disc) calipers. Turns out I was wrong. :splat:

So to double check I grabbed the new 280mm discs I had and checked again...

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Same gap...:headbutt: so looks like I'll have to sell / swap my calipers for a set of R32 or S14 ones... any takers?!

That's all that was achieved, I then headed for the beer fridge... :boohoo:

what an awsome build thread

Thanks mate' date=' been a bit slow as I sent if off for the cage...

But now things will start to progress again - picked it up yesterday from Frost Motorsport, just waiting on homologation before I can lay any primer down on it...

A few quick pics off the phone

[img']http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v90/samos69/Skyline%20Project/20120916_154016.jpg[/img]

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Ok, got a quick hour in tonight, camera was flat so only got a couple of pics..

17x9 35p rim with 245 semi slick and a 20mm spacer

Hmmm, needs a bit of work. Broke out the guard flaring tool I bought a while back and gave the guard a bit of a massage.

Note: when trying this it makes life way easier if you disconnect the swaybar so you can jack up the lower arm to simulate the car sitting on it's wheels.

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Round 2

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Not quite enough, lets give it a bit more

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Almost, one more time and switch to a 15mm spacer (inner guard was going to foul and would have needed way more work)

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Sweet, plenty of room now :D

Had a look over the rims and realised the tyre guys have put them on all wrong, 2 are the wrong way around so will have to go pay for them to be changed as they were fitted up in Taranaki where I bought them... :mad:

And lastly a few extra pics of the cage from the other side:

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Thursday I should be able to tackle the other side, then can lay some primer on the guard lips (I gave them a blast with the flap disk previously to check for rust).

And that's where it sits currently. I've located some R32 calipers so once I've done the other guard and given it a lick of paint I'll move onto the front of the car and finish the loom.

Still got plenty to do, and plenty of parts to be installed. The focus is on handling and stopping for the moment, the power upgrades are coming a bit later. Hoping to hit a test day in november to bed in the brakes and get some seat time.

Thanks for reading, comments / opinions welcome!

awesome build thread, this makes me more motivated on work on mine!! Keep it up :cheers:

Thanks! My motivation died for a bit but now the cage is in I'm raring to go. I literally have a garage full of parts to install, need to crack on.

  • 3 weeks later...

Had a quick hour tonight so got the car up on stands and removed the front wheels in preparation of brakes / suspension, etc.

Flying skyline:

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Flared the passenger side but didn't get time to disconnect the swaybar to test fitment

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Also had a steering wheel quick release show up from BLPP. Seems pretty well made, though the supplied screws are a bit soft :)

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Old:

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Part fitted

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Steering wheel component

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Join

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New momo race wheel. You remove the wheel by pushing the silver button in and twisting the housing through about 30 degrees.

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It's off centre as the momo holes don't line up, if I had a wheel that fitted the alterative hole spacing it would be straight so I need to pull it all off and move the boss kit on the spline to centre the wheel, but by that time I was needed to bath + bed the little one..

Stay tuned, another vehicle is joining the fleet this week :D

Oh look, another skyline :D

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Kids these days... sparkly purple bonnet :yucky:

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It's a (factory manual turbo) rolling shell that I'll be transferring all the parts coming off the race one as it develops to make a nice road car out of... It's currently set up to run an SR but I'll revert that back to RB goodness.

Probably a 12 month project at this stage, still way too much to do on the green one and not enough time.

I managed to wrangle the morning to spend working on the car today, didn;t get as much done as I'd like but any progress is good at this point :)

Pulled out my new R32 brakes which will work with the adaptors shown previously. Gave them a blast of brake cleaner to get the grime off and checked out the pads. They have no markings on them but the blue seems pretty distinctive... anyone have any ideas on what they are? The brakes were removed from a GTS-T in japan... They don't look like ebc bluestuff due to the 2 circles on the back (pics online show 4 circles and 2 v grooves on the face). I'm thinking they might be pagid blues? Either way I'll give them a run on a test day as they have heaps of meat left.

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Next up was the exhaust, first to remove the factory cast dump. 4 13mm bolts up top, 2 13mm nuts down below (need a spanner for these) and it was off.

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The gasket looked to be in great condition which is a bummer as I had bought a new one thinking I'd need to replace it... $30 for a small piece of metal! Will hold on to the new one as a spare.

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New bellmouth dump next to the factory one - you can see how restrictive the factory one is compared especially where the internal wastegate wants to flow.

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Bolting it up make sure you do the nuts first! I had to undo everything as one of the bottom nuts can only go on with the dump pipe not fully seated due to a very tight clearance.

(no pic for some reason!)

Next up is the de-cat pipe. I had one made up years ago when I fitted my exhaust, 2.5 inch it was fine for then, but now I will be chasing more power so a 3 inch one was procured.

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Bit of wrestling and everything lined up, I really like the snub nosed look of this exhaust. :D

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Onto the front - time for a clearance check, bit tight...

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So started pulling everything apart as I have lots of goodies to go in. Got to separating the LCA balljoint and smacked my knuckles with the crowbar.

Remembered why I hate this part so much and how every time I had to do it I swore I'd go and buy a balljoint separator so packed up as it was time to go look at kitchens with the mrs... and managed to stop in at Repco and grab hopefully the correct tool. With some luck work will continue tomorrow evening.

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Thanks for reading.

Hey man, looking good! Remember ages ago i said about the green 32 like yours.... I took a pic to show you -

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We were using it as an anchor lol, but a fluke about the paint etc :)

When separating the LCA ball joint, try bashing the side of the knuckle with a heavy hammer. Keep the bolt on top on in case you miss and damage the thread. Just need to dislodge the tapered part of the ball joint and it will fall out. Much easier than using a crow bar ;)

Hah crazy, I have a 32GTR bumper in the shed I haven't fitted yet but otherwise that's pretty close!

Yeah its what i thought when i saw yours.... He had only done the paint a few weeks before i saw this thread.... Bonnet came up on the FWY though hence the black bonnet now :laugh:

When separating the LCA ball joint, try bashing the side of the knuckle with a heavy hammer. Keep the bolt on top on in case you miss and damage the thread. Just need to dislodge the tapered part of the ball joint and it will fall out. Much easier than using a crow bar ;)

Yeah I was wailing on it with a hammer at the same time... they never seem to just pop out for me I always just end up injuring myself :wacko:

Will see how this separator goes, they had sold out of the fork type so I got one like this:

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Yeah its what i thought when i saw yours.... He had only done the paint a few weeks before i saw this thread.... Bonnet came up on the FWY though hence the black bonnet now :laugh:

Bugger, I've had that happen on my old capri.... not fun times! Mine is black with black roof as that was the standard colour scheme craze back when I was drifting it early 2000s (plus I quite like it)

I've got a vented fibreglass bonnet to go on but thats not a priority as yet

Yeah I was wailing on it with a hammer at the same time... they never seem to just pop out for me I always just end up injuring myself :wacko:

Will see how this separator goes, they had sold out of the fork type so I got one like this:

Yeah maybe I've just been lucky but they've always popped about with a bit of convincing. It is easier when the cars up on a hoist rather than on stands though. Puller is always going to be a better option though, good luck with it

  • 3 weeks later...

Managed to get into the garage today and spend a couple of hours first tidying the place up then working on the front of the car.

With the new tool easily popped the balljoints. I managed to obation a set of R33 LCAs for nothing so will be putting them in as they have much better condition balljoints. They are also about 10mm longer, there seems to be some debate as to if this is beneficial, you get a bit more track but some people who know about these things seem to think it will give increased bumpsteer.

Either way I'll give them a go, here's a pic for comparison

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Also have some adjustable castor rods to go in as well

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Decided to drop the swaybar while the LCAs are out. Have this adjustable item to replace it

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And to top it off some new end links as well

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You are supposed to reuse your D brackets with the whiteline bushes... not a great fit.

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After bending it out I run into this problem again, same as I did on the back.

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So a bit of thinking and the jack came into play..

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The problem now is I have this cranked up as tight as it will go, I may have actually stripped the bolt side and its not quite done up all the way. This is because the new bush is just too big. Does anyone know if there are bigger D brackets available or if I can leave it as is? Its super tight and the bar will rotate as it should...

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That was all as I gave up after the swaybar pissed me off.

  • 2 weeks later...

Should be ok but if your worries grab some washers and a slightly longer bolt and replace that original bolt, put the washers in that gap between body and D bracket. See how you go :) Nice thread building a 32 myself. Love the colour to :)

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