Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Then your in the same boat (pardon the pun) that i am...... Got a clutch rated to 330kw or something that is now welded to my flywheel as i tried to go over the recommended rating by 30kw lol.....1500kms of that and i now have no clutch at all...... For a $1100 clutch it wasnt worth the 5000kms i got out of it, if i was not such a tight ass i could have sold it and upgraded but i thought along the same lines you are...... I now know with ALL mods to do the right the first time, it cost more down the line doing it twice!!

Then your in the same boat (pardon the pun) that i am...... Got a clutch rated to 330kw or something that is now welded to my flywheel as i tried to go over the recommended rating by 30kw lol.....1500kms of that and i now have no clutch at all...... For a $1100 clutch it wasnt worth the 5000kms i got out of it, if i was not such a tight ass i could have sold it and upgraded but i thought along the same lines you are...... I now know with ALL mods to do the right the first time, it cost more down the line doing it twice!!

Hmmm i might do a little more look up on this clutch then, but i did look around quite alot at the power it could handle.

If i have a detune to ~250kw so be it, then ill leave it at that until i can afford another clutch.

The Sports Organic Kit you have listed is completely different to a standard HD Exedy unit. The Exedy units are a well built unit compared to some of the other shit going around, also a clutches lifespan really depends on the driver and how you treat it, however since you are modifying beyond some basic mods in the future a multi plate or ceramic compound might be more viable, again other problems arise like destroying gearboxes.

http://www.authenticgodzillaperformance.com.au/product_info.php?products_id=219

Hope that helps.

Hmmm i might do a little more look up on this clutch then, but i did look around quite alot at the power it could handle.

If i have a detune to ~250kw so be it, then ill leave it at that until i can afford another clutch.

I have two clutches for sale - one for an R34 GTR - Exedy twin plate, very driveable, only done 10,000 km and 8,000 of that was going across the Nullabor and back so not using it much!

The other is an ATI carbon twin plate for an R32/R33 GTR. I will have to check whether it is push or pull, I can never remember. This one is near new, barely used.

Not sure if either of those will fit your car and gearbox. Probably not. But both are very driveable and not grabby at all. Not like my current NPC twin plate. Now that thing grabs! Makes hill starts an interesting activity!

Let me know if any use for you and I will work out a price.

Cheers,.

Edited by MLCrisis

Update :

Injectors - Done

Clutch - Gearbox off, just gota put clutch/flyhweel back in

Turbo - Old turbo off, just waiting for my hypergear to arrive

Fuel pump - Done + rewire

AFM - Done

Coilovers - Done

ECU - Just waiting for it to arrive in post.

mmmmmmm im getting antsy!!!

  • 2 weeks later...

All parts are on the car :):)

Running pretty darn good for a nistune mapped for 440cc injectors.

Tune is on thursday, looking forward to seeing what HP this thing can push out.

Final Parts List

ATR43G2.5 /.82 Hypergear Turbo

Walbro 255 Internal fuel pump

Exedy Sports Organic Clutch

Lightened Flywheel

600cc Deatshwerks Injectors

Nistune ECU

Z32 Airflow Meter

Bilstien Coilovers

  • 4 weeks later...

'Even' button clutches? Button clutches are not hard to drive with haha. Not compared to a twin plate. Try getting a rwd car moving in bumper to bumper traffic with a twin plate for a few days, see how you feel about it then haha. Even better is taking off after getting pulled over by cops...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Unlikely, as per Greg's post. This is not helical diff behaviour unless one wheel is up off the ground. Shimming what? You don't "shim" a mechanical LSD. Probably not in the sense that you have heard of people "shimming" a diff. And the process that Nissan f**kwits call "shimming" a diff involves super-preloading a VLSD cartridge against the side of the diff to create a friction/wear point (in a place that it wasn't supposed to have one) to make the sloppy, useless, viscous diff into a hybrid viscous/mech abortion. In case it isn't clear, I consider the process to be stupid. Nike.
    • How much does the shifter move when the car is in gear with the engine off? If it is more than about 1cm you need to replace your shifter bush. Your shifts will just get crunchier, not faster, with a short shifter unless you also rebuild the whole box
    • I should video mine, will prob do it tomorrow    Between 1st and 3rd, you could fit another two gears. That is how loose and wobbly it is   horrible:(
    • Throws on the FS5R30A in most Nissans of this era are actually quite short and direct compared to any remotely modern BMW with the S6-53 transmission. Those things have throws a mile long with rubbery vague everything. Synchro issues combined with a short shifter is just going to break everything even faster.
    • Only thing I'd add...is on recommendation from a good diff shop, I've used mineral oil in my diff including the race car for years. The synthetics can be too slippery and glaze the gears
×
×
  • Create New...