Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Then your in the same boat (pardon the pun) that i am...... Got a clutch rated to 330kw or something that is now welded to my flywheel as i tried to go over the recommended rating by 30kw lol.....1500kms of that and i now have no clutch at all...... For a $1100 clutch it wasnt worth the 5000kms i got out of it, if i was not such a tight ass i could have sold it and upgraded but i thought along the same lines you are...... I now know with ALL mods to do the right the first time, it cost more down the line doing it twice!!

Then your in the same boat (pardon the pun) that i am...... Got a clutch rated to 330kw or something that is now welded to my flywheel as i tried to go over the recommended rating by 30kw lol.....1500kms of that and i now have no clutch at all...... For a $1100 clutch it wasnt worth the 5000kms i got out of it, if i was not such a tight ass i could have sold it and upgraded but i thought along the same lines you are...... I now know with ALL mods to do the right the first time, it cost more down the line doing it twice!!

Hmmm i might do a little more look up on this clutch then, but i did look around quite alot at the power it could handle.

If i have a detune to ~250kw so be it, then ill leave it at that until i can afford another clutch.

The Sports Organic Kit you have listed is completely different to a standard HD Exedy unit. The Exedy units are a well built unit compared to some of the other shit going around, also a clutches lifespan really depends on the driver and how you treat it, however since you are modifying beyond some basic mods in the future a multi plate or ceramic compound might be more viable, again other problems arise like destroying gearboxes.

http://www.authenticgodzillaperformance.com.au/product_info.php?products_id=219

Hope that helps.

Hmmm i might do a little more look up on this clutch then, but i did look around quite alot at the power it could handle.

If i have a detune to ~250kw so be it, then ill leave it at that until i can afford another clutch.

I have two clutches for sale - one for an R34 GTR - Exedy twin plate, very driveable, only done 10,000 km and 8,000 of that was going across the Nullabor and back so not using it much!

The other is an ATI carbon twin plate for an R32/R33 GTR. I will have to check whether it is push or pull, I can never remember. This one is near new, barely used.

Not sure if either of those will fit your car and gearbox. Probably not. But both are very driveable and not grabby at all. Not like my current NPC twin plate. Now that thing grabs! Makes hill starts an interesting activity!

Let me know if any use for you and I will work out a price.

Cheers,.

Edited by MLCrisis

Update :

Injectors - Done

Clutch - Gearbox off, just gota put clutch/flyhweel back in

Turbo - Old turbo off, just waiting for my hypergear to arrive

Fuel pump - Done + rewire

AFM - Done

Coilovers - Done

ECU - Just waiting for it to arrive in post.

mmmmmmm im getting antsy!!!

  • 2 weeks later...

All parts are on the car :):)

Running pretty darn good for a nistune mapped for 440cc injectors.

Tune is on thursday, looking forward to seeing what HP this thing can push out.

Final Parts List

ATR43G2.5 /.82 Hypergear Turbo

Walbro 255 Internal fuel pump

Exedy Sports Organic Clutch

Lightened Flywheel

600cc Deatshwerks Injectors

Nistune ECU

Z32 Airflow Meter

Bilstien Coilovers

  • 4 weeks later...

'Even' button clutches? Button clutches are not hard to drive with haha. Not compared to a twin plate. Try getting a rwd car moving in bumper to bumper traffic with a twin plate for a few days, see how you feel about it then haha. Even better is taking off after getting pulled over by cops...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...