Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What happened was I blew the front ceramic wheel so I got another turbo replaced it then I rebuilt the first engine put it all back together and only making half boost so I assumed one turbo was working and the other was stuffed only found one wheel in exhaust the cat looked stuffed do I sold the engine pulled the turbos dropped new engine checked the wheels on both turbos they both spun free didn't look like blades where missing put it all back together and now no boost at all if the cat was blocked it would be quiet wouldn't it the only thing I've done is pulled intercooler to inspect and put it all back together a totally blocked cat wouldn't the exhaust glow red

Edited by Hot33r8723
  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

What happened was I blew the front ceramic wheel so I got another turbo replaced it then I rebuilt the first engine put it all back together and only making half boost so I assumed one turbo was working and the other was stuffed

it doesn't work like that - if one turbo is seized or has lost its turbine, then its compressor effectively makes a hole to atmosphere that the boost from the good turbo will flow out of.

Half boost is a boost control issue.

Just pulled of the pods and intAke pipe on the front turbo and started the car and it's not spinning do u think I lost a wheel if a engines compression was really low on all cylinders would it make boost still

Won't build any boost there is no vacum to wastegates at all there is vacum on my boost gauge

I dont understand how that can be - dont they both connect to the plenum? No vac to wastegates suggests a leak, and if you have a leak you wont make boost.

I dont understand how that can be - dont they both connect to the plenum? No vac to wastegates suggests a leak, and if you have a leak you wont make boost.

No. Wastegates get their signal from compressor outlet, not plenum. Plenum bad, compressor outlet good.

No. Wastegates get their signal from compressor outlet, not plenum. Plenum bad, compressor outlet good.

Given that they're connected - how much difference does it make? (assuming the intercooler flows well)

Any ideas on how OP gets nothing at actuators but vac at boost gauge? I would have assumed they would be pretty much the same at idle.

Guess what I reckon it is a blocked cat

If the cat is blocked, I highly doubt the car would even run. Try starting your car with a tennis ball in the back with duct tape.

ive seen a car drive perfectly ok with a blocked cat, but there was zero boost..

why would you need vacumn at the turbo actuator, it only needs to open under pressure, so what we have here are 2 turbo's which are supposedly ok... and highly likely a blocked shit cat. and zero boost.

If both turbo's flow there air/pressure into the intake, then you could test each turbo individually to check if they are making proper boost..that would save stripping it all down again..?? and replace cat obviously..

Edited by SliverS2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...