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R34 Gtt Nistune

sonnyQ

By sonnyQ,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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sonnyQ Mentor

sonnyQ

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Hi everyone, I am getting a nistune and tune for my 34GTT and I was hoping for a bit of advice.

The car currently has the usual mods - FMIC, Turbo back exhaust, pod, coilovers. I have read a lot about the nistune which lead to the decision to get one, however I am in two minds about upping the boost. Originally I figured I would get the car tuned and up the boost to around 10psi, but lately I have been wondering if this will be worth it in the long run.The car has ~80thousand k's (100k service done) on it so upping the boost may cause things like clutches and other work parts to fail, and it will have that label as "a boosted/thrashed car". I have read that 10PSI is safe boost on stock parts...

So my questions are, is there any point getting the car tuned running stockish boost (and getting the most out of my mods) or should I be running 10psi at least for decent results? I am looking at buying a HKS EVC5 fairly cheap, would this be overkill?

Cheers!

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34GeeTeeTee Grand Master

34GeeTeeTee

Posted
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Well the turbo and setup will be fine for 12-14psi which will make a little bit of power, my standard clutch failed at 199kw which you will go close too BUT it will fail in time anyway so upgrade it!

HKS EVC 5 is meant to be one of the best boost controllers on the market, however mine is a peice of poo! So go something cheaper like Profec B or something! Spend your money elsewhere like on a clutch!

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34GeeTeeTee Grand Master

34GeeTeeTee

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I had a high flow on mine when i bought it so not a good comparison but ran 199kw and maxed standard injectors, went up a size and went to 250kw safely on 13psi.... Ive heard people go too 220kw on the standard injectors but my car had no sign of going there!

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Cowboy1600 Grand Master

Cowboy1600

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Do it.

Get a Nistune and go to 10psi. You'll get noticeable more poke and your clutch etc will be find.

Later down the track you can do some more mods and you'll already have the hard part (the ECU) done and ready to be tuned.

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sonnyQ Mentor

sonnyQ

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haha, so I am thinking I should just up the boost and do it!! :P planning to go to EFI in brissy btw.

Car has a tad over 80k on the clock with 100k service done. I get the feeling the clutch is not 100% already as it only bites in rather late on the pedal, although I have read that this is typical with 34's? It has never shown any sign of slipping while under load so I dunno.

Do I need a boost controller to adjust the boost? I can get an EVC5 for around $300 but I do take the point of maybe putting this money into a clutch and maybe just getting a boost tee?

Thanks for everyones comments.

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34GeeTeeTee Grand Master

34GeeTeeTee

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Do it! :D

Mine slipped and died at 100k

You may be able to get an actuator but a simple Turbotech would work if you want to go down that path, 300 is cheap though! (The EVC 5 is more involved in setup too i believe)

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sonnyQ Mentor

sonnyQ

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I'm glad I posted because I am getting slightly excited :) I just have to decide if I should by the EBC5 I guess. For a simple application like this is it a waste? The only thing I thought would be a pro with it is a more accurate boost gauge? I've read the stock one is pretty dodge

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DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

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Evc 5 can be a nightmare but can also be a dream.

Eboost 1,2 or street, profec b spec 2 are easy to use and all work perfectly.

Kurtis34's old hypergear setup maced stock injectors at 235kw 6000rpm. But it had higher fuel pressure

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Mitcho_7 Mentor

Mitcho_7

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Should be fine, especially if its just street driven.

You may run into problems if you are out on a track on boost the whole time for a few laps, mainly because of the heat it will generate. The heat is what kills the wheel.

Edited by Mitcho_7
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GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

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Should be fine, especially if its just street driven.

You may run into problems if you are out on a track on boost the whole time for a few laps, mainly because of the heat it will generate. The heat is what kills the wheel.

Ah....no it's not. It's shaft speed. Extra heat won't help of course, but the problem with high boost is that the shaft speed heads up into the high hundred thousand rpm region and the wheel cannot take the mechanical stress.

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Mitcho_7 Mentor

Mitcho_7

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I thought the high shaft speed contributed to the Extra heat as well as adding more stress and both those factors put together ended up with the turbine wheel in the cat?

Regardless, 10psi will be fine!

Edited by Mitcho_7
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sonnyQ Mentor

sonnyQ

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Regardless, 10psi will be fine!

That's all I wanted to know! I am pretty damn keen to get this done, any recommendations for boost controllers? I will be more than happy with 200kw at wheels, as I'm guessing it would be around the 160 atm, so should be a nice difference without any flat spots

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kitto Mentor

kitto

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Yes, Nistune it!

Get a Profec B Spec 2 boost controller. They are a good little unit. The EBC will help bring on boost earlier and harder as well as trying to keep the target boost.

Replace your clutch first/at the same time.

Later on down the track, put some injectors, fuel pump and a high flow on it and pump out 250-270rwkW!

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