Jump to content
SAU Community

Question: How Do You Remove A R33 S2 Dash


Aberax
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hello,

I am in need of some help removing my R33 Series 2 Dash. I have searched SAU and their is nothing specific for the removal of the Series 2 dash with SRS, only the Series 1.

I am removing the dash so I can replace the heater core, I am removing the whole dash so I can get it flocked all at the same time.

I can currently rock the bottom of the dash, and a bit of the top but it feels like it is still secured somewhere.

Please excuse my following poor photo and photoshop skills.

post-58049-0-04751700-1345018687_thumb.jpg

The yellow and blue dots are bolts, screw and nuts that I have removed from the dash so far. The 2 blue dots are for the lower piping of the climate control, I removed that so I could get a better look at the Airbag.

I managed to get a flat head screw driver and pop up the front of the Airbag panel, I then thought there may be more, so I ran it around the back (hence why it is not bent up) but I was wrong.

I managed to see a "metal plate" where the red line is, and the 2 red dots are where the panel clips are. There is also 2 philips head screws holding the clips in place.

I think if I remove those clips I could get to the Torx bolts holding the airbag in.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

If I manage to get the dash out, I shall do a DIY with pictures so other people can find out how to do it also.

Edit: Yes, the battery has been disconnected for over 1 month, so the Airbag hopefully won't deploy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

From memory the airbag stays put. The airbag cover just lifts off with the dash. Ive got a dash at my brother's workshop I can look at tommorrow. I think there might be something holding it under the pillar trim. Where ever it wont budge there must he something close.

If the dash is rocking at the bottom just look for a point where it dosent move.

It also might be hooked in at the top like the rear seat.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Get a light out and check there are no bolts up under the dash held to the brace that goes along under there. I cant quite tell from the photo but it looks like a screw still behind where the cluster was

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers Brad, I'll see if I can take some better photos on the weekend.

Edit: now I think about it, I think there are some sort of tabs from the pillars that could be stopping it, I'll try and remove the pillar trims.

Also, is it at all possible to remove the airbag cover? Either by itself or with the airbag?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The air bag cover stays on the dash. I cant remember if you take the airbag out from underneath the glovebox first. But atleast the cover isn't joined to the airbag. It just sits on top with the whole dash.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

shouldnt need to remove the pillar covers to take the dash out. Ive done it in my S1 without doing so.

Just keep looking you must have missed a bolt somewhere. If you can rock it at the bottom then I'd be looking at the top. Are you sure there are none through the air vents?

I remember the 2 behind the demister vents up front, but other then that I dont remember alot.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Just an update on this. I got the dash out today, it was being still held in by the pillar garnish tabs on either side. Drivers side came out fine, passenger has a bit more difficult.

For people in the future, I suggest removing the steering wheel and the screws holding the indicator and wiper stalks in place, makes lifting it out easier. Also is a bit hard getting it over the airbag due to the heating/cooling pipe work attached to the dash just behind the airbag.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The two diagrams are equivalent. The R32 one is just one sheet out of about 3 showing everything in the whole car all at once. And without knowing the functionality that occurs in the modules, they are both equally opaque.
    • 8v - 2.48ms 9v - 2.15ms 10v - 1.74ms 11v - 1.41ms 12v - 1.15ms 13v - 0.99ms 14v - 0.89ms 15v - 0.82ms 16v - 0.81ms I'm running these values on my RB20 Neo with 570cc Denso R35 stock jets and it's great. Also bought a set for my Legnum VR4, love these injectors!
    • Thanks for your reply,  Those blue/green wires running to the actuator aren't attached to anything, so I'm not sure how the central locking is still working. I will have to take a good look tomorrow, I don't have the car with me. After googling it seems like a pretty common aftermarket actuator which even uses the same green/blue wires the immobiliser required. i'll test everything tomorrow and if it's working i'll melt the solder, strip it, resolder and neaten it all up with some heat shrink. I don't have to understand it if it works hahaha I just don't want a fire/ short circuit. That R32 diagram looks more like a continuity chart? Can you make sense of this form the R34 manual? 10V is probably due to very flat battery, i'll recheck as well tomorrow, I did have to jump start it haha. Thanks again!  
    • So, COM doesn't mean comms. It means common. What common itself means will depend on the type of device. For a two directional actuator (ie, one that can push and pull on the same output rod) then the common will typically just be the earth connection. There will be at least 2 other wires. If you put 12V on one of the other wires, then the actuator will push. On the other 12V wire, it will pull. Can't quite make out what is going on with the wiring of your actuator. It appears to have several wires at the actuator plug, but there only appears to be 2 wires where its loom approaches the door control module, with at least one of the others cut off. I don't know these actuators off by heart. I'd have to look at a wiring diagram for one before knowing what the wires were about, and that's despite me having to replace one in my car not all that long ago. Just not interesting enough to have dedicated memory set aside for trivia like that any more. That actuator is an aftermarket one, not the original one, which probably died and was replaced. That might require some sort of bodge job on wiring to make it work. Although nothing should justify the bodginess of the bodge job done. As to the soldering job on the door module's loom plug. Ahhahhahaha. Yes, very nasty. Again, I cant tell you what any of those wires do. You'd need to study the R34 wiring diagram (if you can find one that shows the door module). I don't think I have any. I'd have to study the R32 diagram to start to understand what mine is doing, and again, even though I've had a problem with mine for the last 25 years (where it locks the passenger door when the driver's window reaches top or bottom of travel) I'm just not interested enough to try to to work it out. So long as it's not burning down, it's fine with me. Here's the R32 GTR diagram, which, confusingly, has rear door lock actuators and window motors on it!! As you can see, unless you understand the functions of the door lock timer and the power window amplifier, you'll never be able to work out how it works just from the diagram. I don't imagine that the R34 one is any better. Hopefully an R34 aware bod can help. FWIW, the two wires that are cut and joined look like they are both power supply - so hopefully it is not fatal to join them. The 10V you measured on the cut off free end of one of them is concerning. You'd expect 12V, and it might be the reason for the bodge job joining them together.
×
×
  • Create New...