Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

220-240kw R33 gtr, daily driver.

On the same car with 266kw of power I found the standard 595's too hard and slippery in the wet. The 595 RS-R's were actually far grippier in dry or wet even when cold and lasted for a good length of time.

595 if you have no money, 595 RS-R for safer driving (they are not real semi slicks).

But hey upgrading from the base 595's to the RS-R's shows you a huge difference.

Pirelli p7s are abit soft in the sidewall for my liking. Falkens have good grip, performance and cost effective.

Fk452 = best wet tyre ever, abit noisey like 595, directional, new fk453 out now to replace it.

Ze912 = good allround asymmetric tyre

Or for more coin go the Bridgestone potenza range re001, re002, s001. Very rigid tyre an very quiet.

I believe I'm running RE-001 and they're quite decent in both wet and dry. Can't really comment on their ability to hold traction under power in the dry any more since I think they dried out a bit too much in the months my car didn't move and was outside :(

I had the same RE001s before Troy bought them and I always liked them - they did me well for around 350-400kw atw and I did some pretty hard launching on them too.

Only sold cause I needed bigger wheels to clear my brakes. I went OTT and got semi slicks... Super impractical but f**king fun!

Or go to ntw talk to mick and then take your car/wheels round the corner to jax fyshwick where mick takes his cars ;) haha

Also I got 235/40R18 stretched onto my 9.5"s (widest legally permissible for a 235/40), tyres cheap as and it's the look I'm after.

do you have a picture of the stretched tyre?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not noticeably. Arguably, the catless turbo is going to work harder in a different direction, as it will spool up faster, go to higher speeds more easily. Only if it was tuned in the original condition. If it was a stock tune, using the AFM before and after the cat/dump change, then no, no retune needed. If the car is running on a MAP sensor, then it might well benefit from a retune. It might even run a little dangerously without a retune, but it could quite easily be fine.
    • We had this blend that uses 98RON + 10% Ethanol which brought it to 100RON. It's no longer available anymore unfortunately.
    • Does it make a difference in your turbo having a shorter life if you have a cat converter as it causes that back pressure versus less/no back pressure with a decat? (Not sure if this is accurate) Also slightly different question if you went from a oem cat to a decat or vice versa will it require a tune? I heard if you change the dump pipe onwards it requires a tune?
    • No. Have only gotten as far as contemplating the task of having to put in the required fairly heavy wiring and fusing to run it (along with the big alternator), and preferring not to. But otherwise, it would be nice to have a little extra freedom as to exactly where the compressor is located and free up some space around the exhaust side of the engine.
    • Following from this in a related by not closely-related sense... Because I was buying a bunch of other GKTech stuff, I got some rear subframe collars. The history that leads up to this is: 25+ years ago the car arrived into the country with stock subframe bushes. At some point shortly thereafter I added Whiteline pineapple rings, set up neutral, and it improved the rear end behaviour. Well, it is my vague memory that I was happier with it with them in. Less axle tramp on launches, generally better, etc etc. ~2012 it got a new non-HICAS subframe with new stock bushes. No pineapple rings. I reckon that ever since then I've been dissatisfied with the axle tramp. Recently I've been f**king around a lot with all aspects of the suspension. One contemplation has been to relocate the rear lower control arm front mount points (and do the other things needed to make that work) to improve longitudinal rear grip by getting rid of some of the stupid anti-squat that Nissan ladled into the R32. But.... before doing that I thought I'd put some collars in. And.... The collars are good. The rear sounds a little bit different, but there has been no significant increase in NVH coming up into the body. In terms of rear behaviour - expansion joints on long sweeping elevated freeway ramps that would sometimes cause the rear to jiggle around a bit, no longer seem to do so. It appears that jamming chunks of metal into the gaps in the rubber so they can't move much is a really good thing. And the launch behaviour and general forward traction situation seems to be greatly improved too. It's impossible to be really sure, because the tyres are completely shagged - they are freakishly willing to let go right now. But as an A-B test with the same tyres it certainly seems to grip up a lot better. Highly recommended to anyone who still has stock bushes.
×
×
  • Create New...